Yes nut cutlet I agree very leaky! But where as a farmer can flail a hedge with field maple/sycamore in it and it'll grow back, japanese maples are more sensitive.
Verdun, it seems strange to me why prune in spring, when the sap is rising, more increased bleeding, warmer than winter so more bacteria, fungi spores in the air.
Hi all, it seems pruning from Nov to early Feb is the guide from the RHS due to the bleeding, last year we saw a garden with 5 different varieties on a gentle twisting sloping grass and rock garden difficult to explain but it was sort of dreamy and peaceful, lit up at night with lanterns it was just perfection, they seem to be in a class of there own just stunning,
I find maples more trouble than they are worth. They don't do for me... too precious by far. Except for my beloved Griseum, which is more robust and survives my heavy-handedness and neglect.
Too much die back and sensitivity to wind/moisture ratio.
Hi verdun, that's really interesting, thanks sharing. I have 14 different Acers in my garden, mostly Japanese maples, but also paper and snake barks, sugar and Norway maples. I try not to prune them at all unless needed. Favourite is 'Osakazuki'.
thank you, they are of course one of my favourite trees, I have had to learn the hard way, which position suits which one. Obviously the sheltered the better, but I have found smaller leaf varieties don't suffer so much from leaf scorch in the exposed areas of my garden. I have 'senkaki' and 'shishigashara' facing the prevailing winds with no problems at all.
I have my full moon leaf aureum in a pot of john Inness 3 and just top dress it every couple of years.
don't give up on them, a good piece of advise I heard was when buying a Japanese maple was to check the graft point carefully for weakness.
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Yes nut cutlet I agree very leaky! But where as a farmer can flail a hedge with field maple/sycamore in it and it'll grow back, japanese maples are more sensitive.
Verdun, it seems strange to me why prune in spring, when the sap is rising, more increased bleeding, warmer than winter so more bacteria, fungi spores in the air.
Hi all, it seems pruning from Nov to early Feb is the guide from the RHS due to the bleeding, last year we saw a garden with 5 different varieties on a gentle twisting sloping grass and rock garden difficult to explain but it was sort of dreamy and peaceful, lit up at night with lanterns it was just perfection, they seem to be in a class of there own just stunning,
I find maples more trouble than they are worth. They don't do for me... too precious by far. Except for my beloved Griseum, which is more robust and survives my heavy-handedness and neglect.
Too much die back and sensitivity to wind/moisture ratio.
Hi verdun, that's really interesting, thanks sharing. I have 14 different Acers in my garden, mostly Japanese maples, but also paper and snake barks, sugar and Norway maples. I try not to prune them at all unless needed. Favourite is 'Osakazuki'.
I am in awe of those who do well with them
thank you, they are of course one of my favourite trees, I have had to learn the hard way, which position suits which one. Obviously the sheltered the better, but I have found smaller leaf varieties don't suffer so much from leaf scorch in the exposed areas of my garden. I have 'senkaki' and 'shishigashara' facing the prevailing winds with no problems at all.
I have my full moon leaf aureum in a pot of john Inness 3 and just top dress it every couple of years.
don't give up on them, a good piece of advise I heard was when buying a Japanese maple was to check the graft point carefully for weakness.
Just for Woody
KEF.... marvellous, thank you.