Thanks Therapy- I shall give that a go this Autumn, trying to dig around the established plants as much as I can. Think I'll also stick with the compost and grit rather than sand, idea. It's almost impossible to keep off the soil when wet, especially as we've had almost 7 weeks of rain! The grass looks pitiful this year and I've been patching it up here and there, but with the clay soil it immediately compacts and new grass seedlings get trampled into the clay if they are walked on - argh! Do I have to fork in manure at all? Or is compost and some grit enough? What about bark chips over the top too which gradually break down into soil? Thanks all for so many good tips, you are very helpful!
Compost and grit is fine. If you have heavy clay then mix in bark chips as you need the large organic matter to loosen it up and add humus. Sand and clay makes a sort of cement in dry weather that is why I said avoid it! Parts of my garden have blue clay that is teribble to work with as it just sticks to everything and causes water to stop draining away, causing roots to rot.
The good news is that clay soil is very fertile, once you improve the drainage and structure. As you have established perennials, it sounds like it isn't too bad. Like others have said, you need to dig-in grit, sharp sand (don't ever use builders sand - that will cause the 'concrete effect' in dry weather, but sharp sand is fine) and as much compost as possible. To improve the drainage around your established plants, stick a fork in as deep as you can and wiggle it about to leave 4 holes. Pour sharp sand down the holes. Use as much compost (any type, even the cheap stuff) as you possibly can each year and also put at least 2" layer as a top dressing and let the worms do their work. I can even now grow carrots on my clay soil - the sharp sand really helps with those. It did take many years of effort to get it to the stage where I can grow almost anything though!
A trowel in the hand is worth a thousand lost under a bush.
I have clay and over many years have added sand, compost and top soil. I also empty my tomato grow bags on to the garden when the toms have finished. It's quite a steep hillside, so hard to dig.
Lots of things doing well though, roses don't mind it. If I get plants not suited to clay, I just put them in pots. Some things that spread I other people's gardens, don't spread in mind. Can't grow yellow loosestrife at all, but have a wide variety of plants doing well.
I have yellow loosestrife in front , goes great also on clay , there must be something different in our conditions we should try and figure out for you to have it
I can grow purple loosestrife! Sloping site, catches the wind, sun most of the day on 2/3 of the garden, but not as far north as you. Right up on the Pennines though so we always get the bad weather. Perhaps I just started out with some poor specimens. Will try again this year. I have seen some growing at the side of the road up the hill from me. Perhaps I will go and pinch some!
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Thanks Therapy- I shall give that a go this Autumn, trying to dig around the established plants as much as I can. Think I'll also stick with the compost and grit rather than sand, idea. It's almost impossible to keep off the soil when wet, especially as we've had almost 7 weeks of rain! The grass looks pitiful this year and I've been patching it up here and there, but with the clay soil it immediately compacts and new grass seedlings get trampled into the clay if they are walked on - argh! Do I have to fork in manure at all? Or is compost and some grit enough? What about bark chips over the top too which gradually break down into soil? Thanks all for so many good tips, you are very helpful!
PS: is compost better to use than topsoil?
If all else fails try building raised borders
Compost and grit is fine. If you have heavy clay then mix in bark chips as you need the large organic matter to loosen it up and add humus. Sand and clay makes a sort of cement in dry weather that is why I said avoid it! Parts of my garden have blue clay that is teribble to work with as it just sticks to everything and causes water to stop draining away, causing roots to rot.
The good news is that clay soil is very fertile, once you improve the drainage and structure. As you have established perennials, it sounds like it isn't too bad. Like others have said, you need to dig-in grit, sharp sand (don't ever use builders sand - that will cause the 'concrete effect' in dry weather, but sharp sand is fine) and as much compost as possible. To improve the drainage around your established plants, stick a fork in as deep as you can and wiggle it about to leave 4 holes. Pour sharp sand down the holes. Use as much compost (any type, even the cheap stuff) as you possibly can each year and also put at least 2" layer as a top dressing and let the worms do their work. I can even now grow carrots on my clay soil - the sharp sand really helps with those. It did take many years of effort to get it to the stage where I can grow almost anything though!
I have heavy clay soil and over the years have developed it into lovely loam.
It wont take for every, start now with adding compost, grit, sand, spent compost, manure etc etc and repeat every year
Mulch in autumn as well and by next spring you will notice a massive improvement
i have blue clay, if i used a cement mixer how much sharp sand , compost , and clay should i mix together to get a decent workable soil ?
Lots of things doing well though, roses don't mind it. If I get plants not suited to clay, I just put them in pots. Some things that spread I other people's gardens, don't spread in mind. Can't grow yellow loosestrife at all, but have a wide variety of plants doing well.