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Leylandii Trees

Hello there, 

Subject matter - the dreaded Leylandii, but needed for a distinct reason - screening. My question - is it possible to grow these plants at a lower density than a hedge, also stripping and shaping lower branches as growth occurs to create a bare stem of around 1.5 metres. This would be focussed to produce dense foliage growth above fence height, acting as raised hedge screen, whilst providing relative space and light for other planting at lower levels.

If this is possible, what is the best way to achieve it? Are there particular sub-varieties which are better suited to this?

Thank you.
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Posts

  • Joyce GoldenlilyJoyce Goldenlily Posts: 2,933
    There is no reason why leylandii cannot be trained into lollipop shapes but remember, they will have a wide base. If the growth spreads over the top of the fence, your neigbours are allowed to cut the branches back vertically in line with the fence. Then give you back the trimmings. As conifers do not regrow if cut back into brown growth there will be areas of naked branches on the fence side. Also, leylandii grow very quickly. It would be prudent to allow a wide space between the fence and where you plant the trees to allow access for fence maintenance and tree trimming. They would need a twice-annual cut to keep them under control.
    There are plenty of other non-invasive possibilities but they will be much slower growers.
    I would think more along the lines of putting a trellis along the top of the fence with evergreen climbers planted along it.


  • debs64debs64 Posts: 5,184
    Also bear in mind that conifers like most trees will drain the surrounding area of nutrients and water. I would go for a fence but to be fair, I loathe conifers. 
  • McRazzMcRazz Posts: 440
    It sounds like you're proposing the exact look almost everyone with Lleylandii is trying to avoid!

    Google 'Pleached floating hedge' - some varieties to go for would be photinia, carpinus or perhaps Pyrus chanticleer, but there are others. Whilst not all are evergreen the dense framework usually provides adequate screening. If you're on a budget simply purchase units with a 1.8m clear stem and build the framing yourself then train the plant in.

    My experience with Lleylandii is they really degrade the landscape as they're incredibly water and nutrient thirsty and the fallen detritus is incredibly acidic and resinous so you'll struggle to plant anything beneath long term without a silly maintenance regime. However, if you must go cypress then i recommend Thuja Plicata in lieu of Lleylandii.
  • PlantmindedPlantminded Posts: 3,580
    Portuguese laurel can be pruned in that way and is not aggressive like Leylandii, plus it's better to look at! 
    Wirral. Sandy, free draining soil.


  • bcpathomebcpathome Posts: 1,313
    If you are set on planting these trees , please remember your neighbours. Our next door neighbour has them all round their plot and they devastate the edges of my lawn and garden . I cannot grow anything . They have also been the cause of my plum tree dying from lack of water . The edges of my plot are left for wildlife now ,nothing grows because of them .
  • Thank you for the comments. I am moving away from the Leylandii idea as I share the concerns.

    However my neighbour has created a high-level dormer and balcony overlooking our rear private patio area, hence the need for screening beyond the 6 foot fence that already exists. Based on trigonometry the screen needs to be at least 5m

    My trouble is that despite creating a pebble lined land drain pipe down the side of this plot, the soil in the area is still exceptionally moist. Despite a deep excavation it sits over clay, with pooling still evident in the currently empty planting holes, following our usual winter of heavy rain. 

    I don't think that Laurels, Photinias etc would deal with these conditions. Hence an interest in coniferous plants. Perhaps a Thuja -- Western Red Cedar, clear stemmed to 1.8m would be a compromise. Easier to control but still medium growth rate, dense and tolerant of water.

    Not ideal, but we need to deal with the hands we are dealt. Would welcome any better suggestions though!


  • PlantmindedPlantminded Posts: 3,580
    There's some more options listed in this RHS link which might help:

    https://www.rhs.org.uk/plants/for-places/wet-soils
    Wirral. Sandy, free draining soil.


  • Lizzie27Lizzie27 Posts: 12,494
    It might be far easier to erect a pergola or shade sail over your sitting area to give you privacy rather than plant enormous trees, especially if they would be close to the house.
    North East Somerset - Clay soil over limestone
  • PlantmindedPlantminded Posts: 3,580
    A pergola with a retractable louvered roof might be an idea. I just did a quick search and they look quite impressive!
    Wirral. Sandy, free draining soil.


  • RubytooRubytoo Posts: 1,630
    edited 12 March
     Then give you back the trimmings. 


    Neighbours in the UK are supposed to "offer" back the trimmings. You don't give them back i.e dump them on their property.
    Seems unfair but if you are both reasonable it can be worked out.

    Nuances in wording can make a difference :)  

    I believe it stems back from not stealing your neighbours firewood.
    Might be wrong but a nice romantic gesture, steeped in history. :D

    @paulsmith787032824
    Anything you plant if the soil is soggy plant a little higher like a slight mound so the trunk and immediate base is above the wetter level.
    It has worked here so far with a couple of shrubs that are borderline with wet badly draining soil.. I had failed in the past to keep them but so far fingers crossed it has worked.

    Eleagnus ebbingei is a nice plant that can be kept to a narrow style.
    I would imagine you could treat it the same to make a more pleached bare stemmed or topiary type top.
    Don't quote me but look into them.
    It does not mind being cut bad to a quite narrow hedge here.
    There are several cultivars to choose from. 
    I failed with one a few years ago, but using the above slight mound method so far fingers crossed.
    I got fed up with Cornus and the usual suspects for wet soil. 

    Sounds like you created a bit of a sump rather than drainage.
    Sometimes it is better to leave a degree of clay and improve it as it will swell and hold the water.

    When you cut into it and make holes they fill, like a line of least resistance is how I think of it.
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