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Climber Suggestions and Advice

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  • @Busy-Lizzie yeah I think I need to re-evaluate my choices. My initial thoughts were it's a tall house I want a tall climber but obviously the size of the container is going to limit the plant. I'll drop Mme Alfred Carrière.

    To be honest, I think the size of the required planters might mean I'll forget about growing two climbers together so the front is open to options for one plant (rose/honeysuckle/clematis/other) that will be happy in a large pot for a good few years. 

    The idea for a front planter came about because I want something to block the armoured cabling that you can see to the left of the letter B. On consideration, the front of the house doesn't need a big showy display. Really I could have a nice sized pot/planter and a modest climber/non-climber that will be happy being pot grown?

    The gable end I'm still somewhat committed to the idea of Pileostegia Viburnoides (or another climber) even though that's going to take years to establish. But this is supposed to be our forever home and I do like climbers on walls of old houses. 
  • I would not even go there, trying to grow very vigorous climbers in pots. As has already been said, you need to plant 18 inches away from the walls to avoid rain shadow. Your life will be dominated by trying to keep planters watered during dry spells. No plants will be happy unless you dig out really wide deep planting holes and the chance of finding good soil is remote so close to the house foundations, it is likely to be builders' rubble.
    Remember, climbers do not only grow upwards, they grow out away from the walls as well and if in containers will also need to be fed regularly. If you plant in pots, after a year or two it will be near impossible to repot as the climber will hopefully be halfway up the house wall. You would have to cut most of the head off to manage repotting.
    Garrya elliptica is a lovely evergreen for a north-facing wall, with long green tassels, check the variety as some have much longer tassels than others.
    Wisteria is another lovely house smotherer, but it will need regular pruning for control and flowers.
  • GardenerSuzeGardenerSuze Posts: 5,692
    edited December 2023
    David Austin suggests an eventual height of 12ft for The Pilgrim. Mme Alfred Carriere four metres these measurements are for heights achievable in the ground. In a pot it would be less due to root restriction.

    One thought might be an email to David Austin.
    They do have roses growing in huge pots in the garden. I am sure they would give you expert advice on how long a specific rose can remain in a pot before compost needs replacing. They might advise a pot is a short term solution but they are the experts.
     I don't recall any potted roses fixed to wallsl but some grew on obelisks in pots.

    You could also try the Rose thread on here for help. @Marlorena may see your post.

    This is all about the ratio of plant to pot and future care. Gardening is not an exact science. Sometimes it isn't possible to achieve exactly what we want to do despite all our efforts. Plants have certain needs and will let us know when they are unhappy. You can't fight nature as the saying goes.
    I have worked as a Gardener for 24 years. My latest garden is a new build garden on heavy clay.
  • We had Madame Carriere in the ground and she threw out 2m+ lateral stems every year. She reached 4m in her first season 😂. I think she would be far too vigorous for a pot and although said to be “ happy” in shade, we found the growth scrappy and poor flowering compared to the growth with more sun.

    I suspect that the roses on display in pots at David Austin are regularly replaced or at the very least repotted with completely fresh compost etc 🤔
     If you have a garden and a library, you have everything you need.”—Marcus Tullius Cicero
    East facing, top of a hill clay-loam, cultivated for centuries (7 years by me). Birmingham
  • @Joyce Goldenlily I saw Garrya elliptica in my initial searches but I don't think it's hardy enough for my location. 

    But I take your point...I should look for climbers that aren't as vigorous to give it a better chance / take some of the constant maintenance off me. 

    Will rain shadow be a big concern on the gable end? It's a very exposed spot and the roof line doesn't overhang at all.

    Yeah it's definitely cement / rubble / sand under there now as we've just had it all paved. Definitely not digging anything out for this idea...whatever the solution ends up being has to be in a pot/planter (or not happening at all as might be the case) I'm not undoing our recent work.  

    I love Wisteria! I left it out of my initial plant suggestions because I don't think either aspect has enough sun for it (East/North)? If it would work I would 100% have it on the front of the house it looks amazing.

    @GardenerSuze I've tried live chatting with them the past couple days but they're not online. I'll definitely send them an email for more advice on the matter. 
    Gardening is not an exact science. Sometimes it isn't possible to achieve exactly what we want to do despite all our efforts.
    Exactly why I thought it best to ask more experienced gardeners. I'm only just getting my toes wet so to speak and just because I have a grand idea in my head doesn't mean it will actually work. I need to make sure whatever I do will actually work...definitely not spending money on pots/planters/plants for them to fail because I didn't do my research. 
  • FireFire Posts: 19,096
    I would not even go there, trying to grow very vigorous climbers in pots.

    I tend to agree with Joyce. Mad Alf and even Pilgrim will get very large and time consuming. Do you have a tap at the front of the house?. Unless you are set on roses, I would go for a more low maintenance option. And possibly free standing. You have a lovely frontage (so to speak). I would be in no rush to make decisions on this yet.
  • @Fire absolutely not set on roses. The front of the house is totally open to ideas / suggestions / different plants other than climbers. It just needs to cover the wire to the left of B. 

    There's a tap at the side of the house by A. 

    Gable end (A) is the main side I want a climber display on to cover the massive amount of brick.
  • PlantmindedPlantminded Posts: 3,580
    I would have a rethink about long term climbers in your situation @smileja85BHxUmG0F. They are likely to be difficult to establish in anything other than large, deep pots or planters and then possibly also high maintenance for the reasons explained above. Annual climbers will be easier to grow and look after and can also give substantial height and colour.

    Bear in mind that evergreen or deciduous plants that flower and produce berries or fruit will also drop leaves, petals, berries or fruit, and possibly resin or sap during the growing season. This is not really a problem in the open ground as the detritus can be left to break down or be swept up with a rake or lawn mower. I no longer grow climbers or messy plants near my paving or patio for that reason.

    An annual climber or an evergreen shrub that can be easily shaped and repotted in future might be a better idea near your front door. Also, the Portuguese laurel hedge that you have will soon start to gain some height and width, so bear that in mind for gaining access for maintenance.
    Wirral. Sandy, free draining soil.


  • @Plantminded do you have any suggestions you can think of for me to look into for annual climbers and evergreen shrubs that can be shaped? More than happy to rethink off the advice given here...surely there's a happy compromise for the location which will give the desired effect
  • PlantmindedPlantminded Posts: 3,580
    This video might help you @smileja85BHxUmG0F

    https://www.sarahraven.com/articles/climbers-why-sarah-loves-these

    Also, consider sweet peas.  For shrubs in containers, I grow Box, Sarcococca, Yucca, Irish Yew and Nandina domestica.  Bay laurel is also happy long term in a pot if the compost is renewed and fed during the growing season.
    Wirral. Sandy, free draining soil.


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