I clear anything lying on any vulnerable plants, as they can cause the crowns to rot off. It's too wet here to leave lots of them sitting on plants all winter, especially when they freeze as well. In borders with plenty of shrubs, and tougher perennials, they're fine. Smaller bulbs can sometimes be inhibited a bit if there's a thick layer, and it can distort the emerging foliage if it's a thick layer, but most can manage to push through. It isn't always possible to clear all of them though. I just accept I may lose some crocus or similar. A leaf bin is best for most leaves, as they can take a while to break down [different process from general composting material] and if you don't have room for a separate cage for them, bin bags with holes are fine. They need air and moisture, so if you're in a drier area, make sure they're dampened now and again. That's when bags can be better. Maple/sycamore foliage is fine, but shredding helps as they can take longer - same with horse chestnut. If you can shred them [lawnmower is fine] they break down more quickly, and some can be added to a compost bin. It depends on the quantity as to how easy that is.
Many people don't like woodlice. Very useful little creatures. Don't move here if you don't care for them
It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
I find that trees and shrubs tend do one big drop of leaves (usually after the first frost and / or strong winds) followed by a series of lighter drops.
If I leave the initial thick layer of leaves this seems to cause problems with plant crown rotting and also provides a hiding place for slugs and snails. I remove a lot of this thick layer and store it in builder's dumpy bags for about 9 months to partially rot. It is then added to the compost bin in layers with grass cuttings through the summer.
Later leaf falls are much lighter and just left on the border.
Heaven is ... sitting in the garden with a G&T and a cat while watching the sun go down
Hmm a few points. Bone dry leaves will not rot, however long you leave them, especially on open ground. Shredding is best if you can otherwise you need to allow a least 2 years for them to break down. As mentioned oak leaves have high level of tannins so can take longer. If there are different leaves available I would mix shred ( mower is easiest) and either bag or bin. Keep them damp but not wet.
Hmm I'm not sure how keen I am to take them all out of my cage at this point and mow them. I don't know how well the mower will shred them anyway and could send them everywhere although it does have a collector. I will consider this in future though
If you have them in a cage @Matty_P , just leave them to do their thing. That's the usual way. Shredding can help speed things up a bit, but it isn't vital Leaf mould is a different process from composting, and as we've said, leaves need to be kept moist to keep the breakdown happening, whereas compost can be wet or dry, hot or cold, throughout, and it only matters if layers get dried out and crusty, when it would need a good mix, and even a little water or more greens added, if that happens. The main difference between the compost 'types' is the length of time from beginning the process, to the end result. Cold compost is generally considered to be better, as it's a slower process, but it's all ideal for using in different ways.
Leaf mould can easily take a couple of years, and it depends how you want to use it too. For a mulch, it doesn't need to be so well broken down as it would if you wanted it for potted plants or cuttings etc.
It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
You can just put them straight in old compost/bin bags, poke a few air holes and bung them behind the shed. It really doesn't need to be anymore complicated than that but there are faster methods. The beauty of it is that we don't need the finished product for them to be useful, even patially broken down leaves are good for mulch. It's as @Fairygirl mentions above, we only want really processed mould if we are sowing seeds or making our own compost.
If they are on the lawn they get mown up and left to rot in builders bags. They come off the borders late winter, so emerging shoots don't get eaten by the slugs that love to hide under them.
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It isn't always possible to clear all of them though. I just accept I may lose some crocus or similar.
A leaf bin is best for most leaves, as they can take a while to break down [different process from general composting material] and if you don't have room for a separate cage for them, bin bags with holes are fine. They need air and moisture, so if you're in a drier area, make sure they're dampened now and again. That's when bags can be better. Maple/sycamore foliage is fine, but shredding helps as they can take longer - same with horse chestnut. If you can shred them [lawnmower is fine] they break down more quickly, and some can be added to a compost bin. It depends on the quantity as to how easy that is.
Many people don't like woodlice. Very useful little creatures. Don't move here if you don't care for them
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
If I leave the initial thick layer of leaves this seems to cause problems with plant crown rotting and also provides a hiding place for slugs and snails. I remove a lot of this thick layer and store it in builder's dumpy bags for about 9 months to partially rot. It is then added to the compost bin in layers with grass cuttings through the summer.
Later leaf falls are much lighter and just left on the border.
Leaf mould is a different process from composting, and as we've said, leaves need to be kept moist to keep the breakdown happening, whereas compost can be wet or dry, hot or cold, throughout, and it only matters if layers get dried out and crusty, when it would need a good mix, and even a little water or more greens added, if that happens. The main difference between the compost 'types' is the length of time from beginning the process, to the end result. Cold compost is generally considered to be better, as it's a slower process, but it's all ideal for using in different ways.
Leaf mould can easily take a couple of years, and it depends how you want to use it too. For a mulch, it doesn't need to be so well broken down as it would if you wanted it for potted plants or cuttings etc.
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...