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Portuguese laurel yellow leaves

tjbuckley932006tjbuckley932006 Posts: 5
in Problem solving
I planted this row in June. Watered thoroughly and now at least 3 plants dead. Some growth at the base of one. Any ideas as to the cause? Some are thriving but most not. Do you think they will grow back in the spring? As you can see, some are very green, others a paler gree with yellow leaves

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  • DovefromaboveDovefromabove Posts: 88,147
    Hello @tjbuckley932006 and welcome to the forum 😊 

    Can we have more info about the planting preparation and ongoing care regimen please … how often watered and how much through the summer? 

    Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.





  • tjbuckley932006tjbuckley932006 Posts: 5
    Hi, They were planted with compost/ manure and the soaked via irrigation system on planting. Then once a week watered via irrigation system for 8 hours. Lawn near the trees flourished due to watering, even hads frogs hopping around so I think they were well watered. Started dying off in September 
  • tjbuckley932006tjbuckley932006 Posts: 5
    Seems strange that some are absolutely fine and others not. The three at the end of the row would have potentially received less water and are in good shape. The one on the right is the irrigation connection and was receiving the most water and if really good 
  • JennyJJennyJ Posts: 10,576
    Exploring a few possibilities, assuming that all the trees were in the same condition when you planted them.
    What's the drainage like underneath the planting holes/trench? Did you break up the base and check drainage, eg by pouring in a few buckets of water and seeing how quickly it drained through? Is it the same all the way along?
    Is it a new-build property? Could there be buried rubbish or a hard compacted area  underneath the middle part of the row of trees which would affect moisture, drainage, ability for roots to penetrate, and possibly nutrients available?
    Is the middle part of the row, where the trees are suffering/dead, more exposed to  wind? Or more sunny? I think laurel is fairly tough but perhaps being young plants, they could have been affected.
    Doncaster, South Yorkshire. Soil type: sandy, well-drained
  • tjbuckley932006tjbuckley932006 Posts: 5
    Hi JennyJ,
    All trees were in same condition when planted. It is a new build with decent topsoil, clay underneath. Drainage is ok but not great. I didn't test for drainage before planting. Pretty sure there's nothing in the middle underneath stopping drainage. Exposure to sun is pretty much the same along the row. Behind fence is south east. Bit windy of late.
    I'm at a loss as to causes and if they will recover
  • GardenerSuzeGardenerSuze Posts: 5,692
    edited November 2023
    @tjbuckley932006 I have recently moved to a new build with clay soil. If you dig down through six inches of top soil, you get to clay to but just to add to the 'fun' about one and a half spades down is a layer of shale. Hit it with a spade and it just bounces off. Large shrubs won't get their roots down through this. I think it is going to be costly to sort I've already had four more tonnes top soil plus manure. It isn't fit to grow anything at present.
    My old garden was also clay no shale but a deep seam of clay. In the thirty years I lived there some areas I had to give up on and just grow plants with shallow roots.

    Your Laurels are in a state of shock the thickness of clay can vary too in differnt parts of a garden. Buying large plants is not the answer sadly, a plant half the size would probably got away more readily and catch up quickly.Yellow leaves can be the result of shock, lack of water or too much.
    You are asking alot of large plants soil prep is critical. Perhaps you could dig some small pits and see what is gong on is the water draining away?
     
    I have worked as a Gardener for 24 years. My latest garden is a new build garden on heavy clay.
  • tjbuckley932006tjbuckley932006 Posts: 5
    Thanks for the advice everyone. I think the only way fwd now is to see if they pick up in the spring. If not then I'll be digging them out and replacing them with the right soil and drainage in place. Hopefully they'll make a recovery, but I don't want to be messing around with them now. Lesson learnt for me anyway about suitable bed preparation and drainage.


  • JennyJJennyJ Posts: 10,576
    edited November 2023
    You could dig a test pit near the worst-affected one (but not actually in the root zone, just in case it might recover), about as deep as the rootballs were when you planted them. See how quickly it drains when you pour a bucket of water into it, and leave it a while to see if it fills up just from rain. That should give you an indication of how the drainage is.
    Edit: just noticed that @GardenerSuze already suggested test pits - sorry!
    Doncaster, South Yorkshire. Soil type: sandy, well-drained
  • GardenerSuzeGardenerSuze Posts: 5,692
    @tjbuckley932006 I wouldn't be hard on yourself. It is something that alot of gardeners don't know unless they are faced with it. Gardening is a huge subject and there is always something new to learn. @JennyJ has given you alot more information on test pits, this I am sure will help in the spring.
    I have worked as a Gardener for 24 years. My latest garden is a new build garden on heavy clay.
  • PlantmindedPlantminded Posts: 3,580
    I had similar symptoms with two Portuguese laurels bought as slightly smaller plants than yours but a similar shape caused by congested growing by the supplier. I have dry, sandy soil which is quite shallow in places. They perked up after settling in but eventually succumbed to shot hole disease and powdery mildew due to drought the summer before last.  If the soil is not right, they seem to tell you pretty quickly!  
    Wirral. Sandy, free draining soil.


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