Here is a picture of all 3 frohnleiten epimediums, and a close up, and the other fern (I've got 2 ferns) which is a bit bedraggled but I think it's just its winter look.
Ah splitting the epimediums sounds like a good idea when they are ready. I don't know much about their care, I had read you are supposed to cut off new growth but your description is extremely helpful, I now understand properly what to do - detailed instructions are what I need! I will do exactly as you've said when the time comes in spring.
I agree I am really happy if the leaves stay looking good, and I would like the plants to spread, then if I get flowers that would be the icing on the cake. It's just so nice not to have the unkempt mess of dandelions and opportunistic weeds there any more.
It would be nice to split the ferns too one day. I read online they are supposed to grow to a wonderful size but I think it will take a time before they manage it.
@Rubytoo how interesting, I have never heard of pegging down the frond or placing it in a seed tray to grow fernlets (that has to be a word!). What amazing plants they are. I would love to do that when they are ready, because I would like a whole lot of ferns in that area if possible.
I have not been watering the ferns or epimediums, and we've had some rain but not masses, so maybe I should be doing that now as well. I was a little concerned by the thought of watering them then the water freezing on them when recently planted (I don't know if that's a problem), though it's only a few nights of freezing weather we've had recently.
@Pink678 If you look at the base of your plant in the photo you will see little 'nodes'? just at the surface of the soil each one of these would make a very tiny new plant. This gives some idea on how to split them in the future, far more generous pieces of course They are not the easiest plant to break apart, just take your time. Watering can be a puzzle in the winter months, you will need to at some point, avoid as you say if frost is forecast. If Epimediums are unhappy the edges of the leaves become brown and dry. This could be either too much sun or not enough water. These small plants although a little lost at the moment will give you a good idea as to whether you have a viable area for growing. In the future you may always need to water in dry spells. Nigel Dunnett was on Gardener's World last week not the same growing conditions as your but difficult still for many reasons. Everything he had planted was in a 2 litre size pot. It gives the plants a better start.
I have worked as a Gardener for 24 years. My latest garden is a new build garden on heavy clay.
Regardless of how adaptable any plants are, you'll need to do a lot of watering through summer unless you get consistent, decent rainfall that can get through those canopies. That's when it could be a game changer in terms of species/varieties, and you may need to do a lot of experimenting. I can grow things under conifers here without any problem, but we get heavy enough, frequent rainfall, so that's easier. I have loads of Saxifraga urbium [London Pride] for example, as it grows here anywhere - sun or full shade, but I know someone remarked a while back that they can't grow it easily in shade for that reason. It just dies off because it's too dry where they are. Ferns and epimediums are good choices, as long as the ferns are suitable, but keep an eye on them next spring/summer, and you'll probably need to mulch well before it gets to drier weather. The vinca is happy because it can cope with almost anything, so I'd definitely keep that. An edging along the grass border would allow you to build up the soil level a bit more too, which can help in future with a reasonable depth for smaller plants, and they would get more light, so you could use different planting there in time.
It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
As a side issue, @Pink678 , when we were first digging over our garden, we were left with lots of large areas of bare soil and were bothered, like you, of cats using it. We had taken down a large Buddleia and we cut the main trunk up ( previous owners had let it grow like a tree) and laid bits of logs all over the soil.( at odd angles) This seemed to keep a neighbouring cat out. Perhaps if you've any logs or old pots or the such like, you could dot them about until you are ready for planting. Might look a bit unsightly but that doesn't matter if it does the job.
This is a very good idea actually, you could leave the logs to rot down and plant between them; they will benefit from the moisture held in the soil by the logs. It would look good with ferns, epimediums etc. (Would be a bad idea for hostas for slug related reasons!)
"What is hateful to you, do not do to your neighbour".
@Rubytoo how interesting, I have never heard of pegging down the frond or placing it in a seed tray to grow fernlets (that has to be a word!). What amazing plants they are. I would love to do that when they are ready, because I would like a whole lot of ferns in that area if possible.
I did not know that "fernlets" was a word either until I went looking for a "how to" video for you. It sounds like it is. I have never come across this lady before, but she has made this great clear and concise video.
I learned how to a very long time ago probably from an old book, or maybe a lecture, so long ago I cannot remember where. We no longer have our original polystichum, but all the ones in our garden came from both methods of propagation shown.
Good Luck and have fun.
Edit to add you can see who it is posted by on the tube (Brian Hackett), and clearly named with Sally Gregson the lady from Hardy Plant Society.
Further to my previous post, the logs we put down on the soil, where the old Buddleia was, are still there with lots of ferns all around them! They haven't rotted down yet and still doing a good job. They look nice too. They now sit underneath a nicely growing Griselinia shrub.
@GardenerSuze, ah yes I can see those nodes - I just went outside to check the plants and I can definitely see now where I would split them in the future.
I have just watered them now as it's so mild. I think maybe I need to water them a little more often as the rubrums look a little worse for wear I think. The frohleitens look pretty much OK at the moment. I'll keep checking the forecast and avoid the watering when frost is forecast.
I'm really glad I took people's advice here and went for the 2 litre pots!
@Pink678 Don't worry if they look a little worse for wear they are coping with the stress of replanting. All the leaves you see will be gone when you cut back in spring. The young new leaves are delicate and beautiful as they emerge.
I have worked as a Gardener for 24 years. My latest garden is a new build garden on heavy clay.
Posts
Watering can be a puzzle in the winter months, you will need to at some point, avoid as you say if frost is forecast. If Epimediums are unhappy the edges of the leaves become brown and dry. This could be either too much sun or not enough water.
These small plants although a little lost at the moment will give you a good idea as to whether you have a viable area for growing. In the future you may always need to water in dry spells.
Nigel Dunnett was on Gardener's World last week not the same growing conditions as your but difficult still for many reasons. Everything he had planted was in a 2 litre size pot. It gives the plants a better start.
That's when it could be a game changer in terms of species/varieties, and you may need to do a lot of experimenting.
I can grow things under conifers here without any problem, but we get heavy enough, frequent rainfall, so that's easier. I have loads of Saxifraga urbium [London Pride] for example, as it grows here anywhere - sun or full shade, but I know someone remarked a while back that they can't grow it easily in shade for that reason. It just dies off because it's too dry where they are.
Ferns and epimediums are good choices, as long as the ferns are suitable, but keep an eye on them next spring/summer, and you'll probably need to mulch well before it gets to drier weather. The vinca is happy because it can cope with almost anything, so I'd definitely keep that. An edging along the grass border would allow you to build up the soil level a bit more too, which can help in future with a reasonable depth for smaller plants, and they would get more light, so you could use different planting there in time.
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
It sounds like it is. I have never come across this lady before, but she has made this great clear and concise video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bUaGxB3EBFQ
I learned how to a very long time ago probably from an old book, or maybe a lecture, so long ago I cannot remember where.
We no longer have our original polystichum, but all the ones in our garden came from both methods of propagation shown.
Good Luck and have fun.
Edit to add you can see who it is posted by on the tube (Brian Hackett), and clearly named with Sally Gregson the lady from Hardy Plant Society.