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Right Base Materials for large Rectangular Planters

Hi again, just following on previous post asking for advise what to plant, I could also use some advice what materials to prepare the planters with.

The planters are farm cattle feeders (heavy gauge galvanised steel build) with drainage holes and 350 mm deep by 350mm wide and 2.2 meters long. I have 4 of these.

I had planned to clean and paint with a hammerite coat the interiors to about 70% height and then spray undercoat them to prevent rust and degradation as far as possible. Or should they be lined with something else?

But then what to put in them? I thought a thin base sharp sand, some gravel for drainage and then a decent soil for beds and borders. I've used this one in very large pots in the same area and growing conditions very successfully....

https://www.gardentopsoildirect.co.uk/shop/topsoil/beds-border-blended-topsoil

But before I order anything, I'd be very interested in any advice and experience anyone has to offer. I'm an interested gardener and my knowledge is developing but far from expert. 

I will add photos that will help visualise far clearer tomorrow morning.
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  • ViewAheadViewAhead Posts: 866
    Would the sharp sand not either fall through the drainage holes or clump up and clog them?  I'd go with the gravel myself.  Not sure if you would need a lining as I've never grown anything in a metal container. 
  • Pete.8Pete.8 Posts: 11,340
    I'd just use about 3" gravel at the bottom too, no sand.
    Also remember to raise the containers off the ground a little so they drain freely over winter.
    The topsoil looks fine, but I'd add some rotted manure into the mix to add fertility and more grit to open the texture.

    Billericay - Essex

    Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit.
    Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.
  • Thanks both for the advice. And advice taken. 

    I'm avoiding the sand. I have about 20 bags spare from another project and I think was looking for a way to loose a few :smile:

    And raising the units is a good idea. I found a couple of packs of these spacers they use when fitting wooden floors and put two of them together. it gives 5-7mm of gap between the metal and the brickwork. I've then used C1 clear adhesive to fix them in place. Still undecided if to fix then more mechanically to the wall but the adhesive and weight of the soil I think should be easily enough.

    The units I've cut and welded to size and then used a cold galvanised spray paint to patch the weld up. It's a bit fresh but will dull down. The galvanising needs cleaning but is good in thickness and consistency.

    Here are the pics of the draft fit .... looks a bit industrial just now but when cleaned, fixed in and planted up I think they should be ok with some overhanging growth.

    I'll post a few more when fully fixed in and prep'ed for planting. Thanks again for the support and advice


  • Pete.8Pete.8 Posts: 11,340
    WOW! that's different - looks great!
    Bear in mind the compost is going to get very warm in the summer sun, so frequent watering will be needed.
    If you can get enough foliage hanging over the sides that should make a big difference.

    Billericay - Essex

    Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit.
    Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.
  • Pete.8 said:
    WOW! that's different - looks great!
    Bear in mind the compost is going to get very warm in the summer sun, so frequent watering will be needed.
    If you can get enough foliage hanging over the sides that should make a big difference.
    Thanks Pete. Yes it will be fully irrigated. Although not much of a gardener (although learning still) I am pretty good on infrastructure so have a full structured and timed irrigation system back and front.

    It doesn't show yet but hopefully will be the weekend, but there will be a 20mm conduit fitted within the units and at the rear of the wall to route irrigation pipes, network cables for cameras and a power run ... all hidden away but allowing a lot of options. 

    And if this rotten rain gives over, I'm hoping to have them all fitted and sealed up internally. The gravel and soil lands tomorrow and it would good get them loaded up. 

    And as you say, the hang over I think will tone down the somewhat industrial hit that the exposed and empty product has right now.

    Will keep you posted.
  • Pete.8 said:
    I'd just use about 3" gravel at the bottom too, no sand.
    Also remember to raise the containers off the ground a little so they drain freely over winter.
    The topsoil looks fine, but I'd add some rotted manure into the mix to add fertility and more grit to open the texture.
    Hi again Pete. Just to clarify, the rotted manure, do you mean to source it from natural source or is there a bagged product you'd recommend? Sorry that probably sounds a bit of a daft question but just to make sure I get the right product.
  • Pete.8Pete.8 Posts: 11,340
    If you buy the loose fresh stuff, you'd need to let it rot down for several months.
    So the bags sold in garden centres is what you need.
    It's usually labelled Farmyard Manure - mix that in with the soil and grit and you're ready to go :)

    Billericay - Essex

    Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit.
    Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.
  • Pete.8 said:
    If you buy the loose fresh stuff, you'd need to let it rot down for several months.
    So the bags sold in garden centres is what you need.
    It's usually labelled Farmyard Manure - mix that in with the soil and grit and you're ready to go :)
    Got it. Many thanks Sir. Will source and collect those today. Units were cleaned and fitted yesterday in fowl weather. Today they will be loaded with soil and time permitting, the irrigation and cabling installed as well. Weather substantially better here today.
  • The roots of plants in metal containers can get very warm.
    I have worked as a Gardener for 24 years. My latest garden is a new build garden on heavy clay.
  • The roots of plants in metal containers can get very warm.
    Is a good call Suze and not one I'd considered. The frontage does bake and the units are a fair size but are in direct sun.

    On the positive side, both sides are in free air and all the units will be fully irrigated ... they are on timers and watered morning and evening ...  from memory for 15 mins on a drip feed. Mind a soaker pipe could be more effective from a cooling point of view.

    Is something I will keep a good eve on. The metal itself is agricultural grade stuff ... very heavy rather than garden center type stuff. Whether that is good or bad I'm not yet sure.

    Thanks for pointing that out. Is amazing how much input and guidance you can get from what seemed like such a simple question. So much to consider to get stuff right. But that's the fun of this stuff.
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