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Gravel Guidance

rupesh5558005rupesh5558005 Posts: 2
in Problem solving

After purchasing a property we neglected an already neglected front garden for a year after foolishly under estimating the effort involved in keeping plants from taking over (life, uh, finds a way). Eventually got it under control after treatment with weedkiller and some back breaking pulling up.  The area in question is gravel on top of weed membrane but some of the weeds had penetrated the fabric and when they were pulled out, some fabric was also ripped out with it. As the gravel is shallow in some areas I know that I'll need to top up the gravel with another ton or two to get the gravel to 5cm thickness but I'm wondering what's the best way to go about this? I think there are a few options available on my limited budget of £200: 

1. No further prep and just spread a ton or two of extra gravel on top of the current gravel. 

2. New membrane on top of current gravel and then new gravel on top of new membrane. 

3. Remove current gravel and give it a rinse. Rip out current membrane and lay new membrane then place washed gravel on top of this and top up with more gravel.

A week ago I got it looking like this:   - as you can see weeds are already making a reappearance and there are bits of membrane poking through. I'm aware that no garden is "maintenance free" and once I have more gravel I'll be regularly weeding and raking it to prevent any self seeding weeds from developing deep roots.

I've read various bits online - some suggest weed fabric isn't required if there's enough gravel laid on top as that'll prevent anyrhing growing, where as other posts suggest doing it properly, due to the compromised weed membrane, by starting from scratch for the best result. The latter is considerably more effort, which I'd be willing to do only if it were to give a significantly better result.

Thanks in advance for any advice!

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Posts

  • GardenerSuzeGardenerSuze Posts: 5,692
    edited October 2023
    @rupesh5558005 You won't stop nature it will always win. When you mention plants I assume you mean weeds? The use of weedkiller is also becoming more unacceptable and many  are weaker than they used be, genetically plants are finding ways to survive  herbicides. 
    Dust and dirt develops between the membrane and the gravel and some weeds can easily grow in this thin layer. Trying to pull weeds out of membrane is much harder than out of the soil. This drags up the membrane and you get a mess with lumps of membrane showing.
    Whatever you decide to do keep it permeable flooding in cities and towns is becoming more of a problem as people try to find room for yet more cars on hard standing.

    Personally I would spend your money on plants that cover the ground they will help supress weeds and encourge insects too.

    I have worked as a Gardener for 24 years. My latest garden is a new build garden on heavy clay.
  • LoxleyLoxley Posts: 5,698
    You can get on top of the weeds if you spray and repeat spray with glyphosate. But you will always get weed seeds blowing in. Shallow gravel is ideal for weeds to germinate; it needs to be quite deep, and preferably coarse, to reduce germination. Agree with Suze that planting the area up with competitive plants that will smother weeds is a good idea. Grass seeding might be the easiest way to achieve this, although that ties you in to maintenance.
    "What is hateful to you, do not do to your neighbour". 
  • GardenerSuzeGardenerSuze Posts: 5,692
    edited October 2023
     It is impossible to have an area that is completely maintenance free. Using a hoe for half an hour a week between plants is cheaper than expensive chemicals.It also stops weed germination.If plants cover the ground no room for weeds.
    I have worked as a Gardener for 24 years. My latest garden is a new build garden on heavy clay.
  • JennyJJennyJ Posts: 10,576
    edited October 2023
    What is it that you're aiming for? A planted gravel garden, in which case it'd be better without the membrane to allow attractive plants to spread (although you could plant through the membrane), or a completely bare area e.g. to park a vehicle on, in which case you might be better saving up to have permeable resin-bound gravel laid.
    Doncaster, South Yorkshire. Soil type: sandy, well-drained
  • ViewAheadViewAhead Posts: 866
    Believe me, as one who knows, washing gravel can be a very long and tedious task!  😎

    I have quite a lot of gravel, but no membrane.  Weeds are very easy to pull up, and you might like to keep some self-seedlings, eg Nigella or native primroses.   Stuff will arrive ... and gradually you will get to know the "keepers".  Personally, I am not a big fan of membranes, so in your position I'd brush the gravel into a heap, remove the membrane, redistribute the gravel and maybe add a bit more on top.  This will be easiest to do when the gravel, membrane and ground beneath are fairly dry.  
  • PlantmindedPlantminded Posts: 3,580
    I think that @JennyJ’s point about how you intend to use the space is an important consideration.  Are you a gardener or just wanting a vacant space that’s easier to maintain?
    Wirral. Sandy, free draining soil.


  • rupesh5558005rupesh5558005 Posts: 2
    @Plantminded the latter. Still have bits to do inside the house so not much of a gardener at the moment and just looking for something easy to maintain. It won't be used for parking. 
  • FairygirlFairygirl Posts: 55,117
    A good depth of gravel will help - at least a couple of inches. Shallow layers make it easier for anything to seed into.  Anything seeding in can be hoed or pulled more easily as it won't have such solid, stable roots. Don't use pea gravel which will just become a large cat litter tray. You might find the crushed slate good, but anything around 20mm is fine.
    Whether you use a membrane or not largely depends on the conditions of the underlying soil. If it's well compacted, and doesn't get soggy, you might be ok, but if it's light and sandy, the gravel will just disappear into it. On wet clay, it can sink in as well if constantly walked over.  :)
    It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....



    I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
  • PlantmindedPlantminded Posts: 3,580
    edited October 2023
    Instead of gravel, it might also be worth considering slate chips or limestone chips @rupesh5558005. Because of their larger size and shape, they are less likely to create a germination bed for weeds. I've got limestone chips in a narrow corridor alongside my house.  In ten years, nothing has ever grown there so no weeding necessary.
    Wirral. Sandy, free draining soil.


  • WaterbutWaterbut Posts: 344
    Roundup does the trick. Not a good suggestion I know but if you are short of gardening time give it a go in the first instance then go down the green road. It is supposed to neutralise when it hits the soil so there should be no build up.
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