Forum home Problem solving
This Forum will close on Wednesday 27 March, 2024. Please refer to the announcement on the Discussions page for further detail.

Clematis: How far down to prune?

2»

Posts

  • Thank you @Songbird, I wish I had known about these forums when I moved in here last October. Only recently I have had to.e to think about outside.
      Every contact leaves a trace - Locard

    My abode: Essex, soon to be a desert!
  • ObelixxObelixx Posts: 30,090
    If you prune a Group 1 down to the ground every year you will never get any flowers as they produce them on older stems, not new season's growth.

    That's why I said to wait and see what you have and when it flowers.
    Vendée - 20kms from Atlantic coast.
    "The price good men (and women) pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men (and women)."
    Plato
  • I get it now ty
      Every contact leaves a trace - Locard

    My abode: Essex, soon to be a desert!
  • Songbird-2Songbird-2 Posts: 2,349
    And that is why I said that when I prune our clematis....whenever that is.........
    I think @theno2soco will now know , following lots of advice here,  that the clematis will need to be identified before pruning and that will mean waiting until they flower next year and determining their pruning group🙂 It can be very daunting for new gardeners whilst discovering their plants, needs and pruning details. 
  • FairygirlFairygirl Posts: 55,117
    Just to add to the confusion [- sorry!] you can certainly cut Group 1s down hard, but that's usually for regeneration, because, as already said - they normally require very little pruning at all, and if you cut them back now, you lose the flowers the following year because of the timing, and the fact that they flower on existing wood. You can take top growth off the 2s and 3s at this time of year which does no harm, especially on established plants.
    The larger flowered Groups 2 and 3 produce new growth from below ground, which is why you can plant them much deeper than they are in the container you get them in, and it's how they mature to being much bigger plants. That's not good for any Group 1s, including montanas, as they need better drainage, and they produce growth from above ground on the existing wood. Poorer conditions for them too, unlike the later/bigger ones. 
    Before you do anything, wait and see when/if they flower, and then you can adopt the right regime. It's unlikely that you've killed them, so that's the plus point   ;)

    Just to add - the one in your pic looks like a montana. If that's the one that has a woody trunk, it's most likely to be one of those, and should flower in spring. If you're moving the one that's beside a wall, it may not take well, as they don't always move readily if they've been there a long time. If you still want to do that - prep the new hole first, make sure it's well soaked, and get as big a root ball as possible. Move and plant when there's no harsh weather in the forecast to avoid it freezing solid. The roots can spread a long way, so that's the reason for getting as big a root ball as possible. 
    It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....



    I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
  • Prep the hole - do what apart from making it big enough?
      Every contact leaves a trace - Locard

    My abode: Essex, soon to be a desert!
  • RubytooRubytoo Posts: 1,630
    A couple of past posts from the search to help give you an idea, there are quite a few more too.

    https://forum.gardenersworld.com/discussion/comment/563115#Comment_563115
    https://forum.gardenersworld.com/discussion/347298


Sign In or Register to comment.