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PH soil

bakerrobert28037bakerrobert28037 Posts: 4
in Tools and techniques
 I’ve recently layered a new planter with Buddleia branches; assorted other branches, twigs, leaves; top soil; compost; and finally manure - in that order. I’m keen to test the PH in the soil but have been told not to do it too early for an accurate reading. I appreciate the complete breaking down of the contents may take several months but when should I dust off my meter reading prong machine? All advice most welcome 
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  • plant pauperplant pauper Posts: 6,904
    If it was me I'd do it every day (at the start cos I'm ridiculous with new tools) or at least once a week.
    You need a starting point otherwise you won't know when you've finished. eg if you turn up and the 'result' of an experiment is that everything is dead you still won't have a valid result as they may have been dead to start with.

    Something like your experiment is about change and gradual improvement, or deterioration, therefore you need a progress report. 🤓

    Welcome to the forum. I do like the look of all your new stuff. 😍
  • Pete.8Pete.8 Posts: 11,340
    Things like branches are likely to take several years to break down and the compost will sink as it breaks down.
    The prong type of pH testers are not very accurate in my experience. Better to use the liquid type.

    The big question is why do you need to know the pH?
    Are you planning on growing something specific that will only grow in a narrow pH range? Most plants are happy in a wide range of soil pH values.
    I would have blended the manure into the topsoil.

    I agree - it all looks very smart :)

    Billericay - Essex

    Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit.
    Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.
  • bakerrobert28037bakerrobert28037 Posts: 4
    Thanks, Pete. The expression "all the gear & no idea" is me to a tee re: gardening. Starting from the point of total ignorance though, does have its advantages!
  • Pete.8Pete.8 Posts: 11,340
    :) yes learning by experience is the way most of us oldies learned how to garden.
    But now with the internet new gardeners can benefit from the experience of others thus helping to prevent mistakes and offering our advice.

    I think all you should do is just mix the 3 layers of compost, manure and topsoil together and you're ready to go.
    Otherwise plant roots will get acclimatized to the manure (I hope it's well-rotted and not fresh), then hit the topsoil which has different characteristics, later they'll get to the compost which is different again.
    Mix it all up and it'll be fine.

    Billericay - Essex

    Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit.
    Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.
  • NollieNollie Posts: 7,529
    Like @Pete.8 I too would mix up the organic matter on top of the branches to create a more consistent growing medium.

    The layering technique you describe sounds very much like ‘Hügelkultur’, used a lot in permaculture for growing annual vegetables. My Dutch neighbour tried it and found it an interesting experiment!

    It’s less useful for permanent planting like shrubs, fruit bushes and perennials because until it’s all fully rotted down, the levels will sink significantly and your plants with it. You can’t top up the levels without taking everything out and replanting. They’ll rot at the crown otherwise.

    Are you planning to grow veg in it? Or something else? Again, echoing Pete, it’s only certain plants that, say, specifically need acid conditions where the pH is critical.
    Mountainous Northern Catalunya, Spain. Hot summers, cold winters.
  • FireFire Posts: 19,096
    Starting from the point of total ignorance though, does have its advantages!


    Absolutely. It can be much more fun and carefree. Enjoy!

  • bakerrobert28037bakerrobert28037 Posts: 4
    Thanks everybody. Wasn't expecting such friendly guidance. This is going to be my new 'job' having retired and moved to Brighton. Nollie is absolutely right about Hügelkultur, this is where I gathered all the plans for starting my vegetable (only) patch. My thinking was to use the autumn/winter months to get a decent soil before I manoeuvre the next step of plantings in Spring. Nobody said this was going to easy!
  • NollieNollie Posts: 7,529
    Oh that’s perfect then. The fact that the branches are still decomposing below shouldn’t be a problem for annual vegetables. So long as you have a sufficient depth of good organic stuff (40cm deep is enough even for spuds) you’ll be all set to go in Spring, although by then you’ll probably have to top up the levels again.

    Good luck and don’t worry about the pH, the weather is the biggest challenge, but that’s veg-growing roulette for you 😃 
    Mountainous Northern Catalunya, Spain. Hot summers, cold winters.
  • bakerrobert28037bakerrobert28037 Posts: 4
    Fairly certain there's enough organic stuff. About the length of a garden fork I'd say, though you're right about how quickly the levels drop. Can soil be over-mixed or over-aerated?


  • JennyJJennyJ Posts: 10,576
    I think I would cover it for the autumn/winter to stop weed seeds drifting into it. Sheets of cardboard (broken down boxes work well) would still allow some moisture through. Then you can top it up as needed before planting/sowing in the spring.
    Doncaster, South Yorkshire. Soil type: sandy, well-drained
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