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Advice for olive tree

ellwonforNLqXUjyPellwonforNLqXUjyP Posts: 2
in The potting shed
Hi, this is my first time posting so hopefully this is the right place to ask this. I have 4 pleached olive trees along my fence. They were all planted in a raised bed with the same soil and are watered the same way. I’ve recently had a bit of Peacock spot and have been treating all the trees with a copper solution and removing any leaves with signs of disease and 3 have bounced back well. 

One of the olive trees is just struggling, its leaves are all slightly yellow or a yellowish green rather than the normal olive green. I’ve been removing the really yellow leaves and any with signs of peacock spot. I’ve fed it the same and then I’ve spent a few weeks watering it less to make sure it wasn’t water logged. Just not quite sure what to do as couldn’t find anything online for yellowish green leaves. I’m not sure where her to remove all the leaves and prune it right back but I know it’s not the right time it the year. Even stranger is that recently there are a few green shoots coming from the base so it’s obviously still alive. 

Any advice would be greatly received. 

Thanks,
E 

Posts

  • tui34tui34 Posts: 3,493
    Hello @ellwonforNLqXUjyP  and welcome to the forum. 

    All (olive) trees get yellow and brown leaves.  Like hair really, some drop out and new ones grow.   Pruning is usually done in the depths of winter - here (south coast of France) usually January/February.

    I don't know why, but this photo really pained me seeing the majestic olive tree pinned up and out.  Where will you sit under its shade to drink your rosé?
    A good hoeing is worth two waterings.

  • Pete.8Pete.8 Posts: 11,340
    The only thing that stands out is the big camelia (?) next to it that may be taking up water.
    They're really tough trees. Mine is fine after many years of neglect in a large pot.
    I don't water it for weeks in summer. It has a huge ant colony in the compost and has done for 15yrs or more. I only give it a seaweed feed 2 or 3 times during the summer and I chop bits off it when it gets too big.
    So it's treated hard.
    Maybe you're giving yours a bit too much tlc.

    One thing you should attend to is the tree ties. 
    They way you have yours may be causing the trunks to rub against the rough wood support and possibly causing a wound.
    The tie goes completely around the trunk then onto the support.

    The other thing that has just sprung to mind... should you use a copper spray in the summer months?
    From the little that I know it always seems to suggest between November and Feb.

    Billericay - Essex

    Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit.
    Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.
  • ellwonforNLqXUjyPellwonforNLqXUjyP Posts: 2
    Thanks for your advice. Camellia was in the garden when I bought the house and the root ball is 2ft below where the Olive trees sit. 

    Tree ties are quite loose now and will be removing frames next year once more established but as they are pleached they are one big sail. 

    Copper solution - I did look at dates and it seemed that dates were mainly because of harvesting the fruit which I’m not on these.

    I’m sure it’ll get better but just confused what it is.


  • punkdocpunkdoc Posts: 15,039
    Agree with @Pete.8, the non thriving olive is very close to the shrub, so will be competing for water.
    How can you lie there and think of England
    When you don't even know who's in the team

    S.Yorkshire/Derbyshire border
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