Everything from above. If you want your tree to be happy, dig as big an area surrounding where you intend to plant it as you possibly can before planting it as your acer will send its roots out sideways as well as down. It sounds as if your neighbours failed to prepare their ground adequately to fail 3 times with a lawn. Unfortunately what you describe is part of taking on a new build plot. You need to dig down at least a couple of spades depth to remove rubble etc. before trying to use the plot for growing anything. Dig over the ground at least twice to make sure you get rid of as much rubbish as you can. A long hard job but better than constantly planting and then losing plants. Little and often is usually the way to tackle a project like yours. People sometimes have to bring in supplementary topsoil after they have removed the rubble and stones from a new plot to make up for the volume lost.
Thanks again for the further suggestions. Now I’m really lost on what to do
This is my back garden: (Sorry not sure why it flips the photos!)
So it’s 12pm at time of me posting. Our back garden gets sunshine from morning until approx now. I’ve noticed that the grass/ floor stays damp because of the way the sun faces so for most of the day it stays in shade. My rose almost died in the garden but I moved it to the location above, brought some feed and now it’s flourishing really well!
I honestly have no clue what the ground is like under the grass (I only know our neighbour told us their grass failed 3 times and when they checked their dirt they noticed how much rubble and grit etc was in the ground which was no wonder their grass didn’t take (this is the developments fault not the neighbours )
This is my balcony:
It’s gets sun pretty much most of the day (especially from midday onwards) and can get very very hot. The side the Acer is on mostly stays shady but does get a few hours of sun a day (which is why I left it there thinking it was the best place for it!) Even now the soil is damp in the pot… but I think leaving it in a space that has sunshine 24/7 scorches the leaves.
This is my Acer tree now:
All leaves now gone and if you can look closely you’ll see the new growth trying to come through turns black.
Should I put the pot into my garden in a half sunny/ half shady spot and pray that next spring it comes back? Or am I just going to have to accept that I’ve lost the tree? I don’t think I live in an area that’s good for an Acer 🤷🏽♀️
On a side note, I did want to make borders/ sleepers around my garden and fill them with proper soil/ dirt so I could do some gardening (I’ve really found my love for it) so that’s still on my list of projects but I think for next spring now. I’m just wondering if my garden is going to be any good? Maybe for growing veg more than anything? Because honestly the way the sun moved in the sky we don’t get much sunshine in the garden before it’s in shade and it’s not very hot sun. Our grass doesn’t grow the best because it’s constantly damp (if you can tel by the photos above).
Sorry for the long read! I hope the pictures help everyone and again any help or suggestions would always be welcome
Oh also to add; I have just done some gardening in my front garden and the ground is full of clay, massive stones and terrible dirt. I’m going to make the assumption that my garden is the same (considering it’s a massive new build site).
I live in Milton Keynes so West Midlands so do get some good weather it’s just how the sun is in the sky I think our garden is very shady.
I’ve moved the Acer into the garden and picked a mostly shady spot but with some sun. I’m leaving it in the pot and going to see how it gets on over winter…
In spring, I’m going to make some borders as adviser above and put organic soil etc and plant things they don’t mind mostly shade
For the balcony, I’ll go for tropical trees/ plants from now on!
For your acer to be happy, it needs decent, well drained soil, and some shade. With that in mind, can you tell us which corner of the grassed area gets evening or late afternoon sun rather than morning sun? Morning sun can fry new foliage and is best avoided, especially as you have no plants in the garden at all. If the best part is near the large wall, that could be ideal, but only if it isn't in the direct path of the prevailing wind. A north to north west facing site is the best in most circumstances. What you'll currently have is poor, rubble laden soil as it's a new build. It's very common, but is easily remedied though, by creating a simple raised bed, rather than spending a long time improving the existing soil, especially as you have a plant which needs help. That can be made with timber, block, brick, sleepers or anything you fancy, depending on budget and what you like. It doesn't have to be enormous - around 6 to 9 inches in height, to give you a decent amount of depth for the plant. If you choose timber, make sure it's lined, to help preserve moisture, and to prevent rotting.
If you can determine the best site, working with what I've described, you can make the raised bed and fill it with a mix of soil, rotted manure and also some grit if it's only a small area. In a big area, a mix of soil and rotted manure is ideal as it makes a good mix but with enough drainage. You can buy that in bags from GCs or diy stores. Soil comes in bags of just general top soil, but you can also get products with the name John Innes, which is just a formula, so if you pick that, just look for one which will be suitable for shrubs. You can add some general compost too if you want, or even an ericaceous one, which will suit the acer, and the soil level will settle over time, so it's important to plant your acer at the same level as it is in the pot, but make sure that isn't too low - around the same level as the top of the bed edging or only very slightly lower. That means that when you add new soil, the trunk won't be getting covered up.
It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
It's fine to keep Acers in pots. They just need a position away from hot sun and drying winds.
It's probably best not to over-react to a bit of leaf burn or defoliation, especially in a young plant. The lacy leaved ones - and golden leaved ones - are a little more prone. Just keep calm and carry on watering as usual (a really good drink once a week or possibly twice when it's hot).
Feeding isn't really something you should worry about. Unless it's been in the same pot for a couple of years or more it will probably have all the nutrients it needs.
When the plant is a good size, and you have created a nice border in your garden with decent soil, that is when you can plant it into the ground.
"What is hateful to you, do not do to your neighbour".
Thank you @Loxley I’m thinking I might start the border project in autumn now! Or worse case I’ll wait now until early next year but so it’s ready for spring. I will definitely let my Acer get more established in the pot first and hopefully start to see new growth now I’ve moved it into the garden.
If you look at my other photos further up, it’s placed in more the afternoon sun (although my garden only get sunshine until approx 12:30 before it moves to the side/ front of the house).
I used to have my Rose tree next to my shed, on the left side, where it gets mostly shade and I noticed the leaves falling off and had all these yellow/ spots on them. I feel like this almost died too. I moved it where it is now, brought some Rose feed and protect liquid and within 6 months it’s doubled in size and the leaves are really lovely and green and SO many roses bloom so I’m chuffed with this. This is why I moved the Acer next to it, hoping it might have the same luck? It seems to have the morning shade (now) sunshine for a few hours and then shade the rest of the day.
I thought the afternoon sunshine was hotter than morning??
I was also getting really frustrated with my tree because me and my mum brought the same tree just different sizes. She brought a tiny one for under £10 which looked like it was just getting established. She has hers in a small pot in her garden on her bottom patio area. This gets the morning sunshine and then shade all afternoon. I went to visit her the other day and her tree has doubled in size and her leaves are looking so healthy and green! She also has another Acer in her garden that she’s had for years and that’s in a pot and my sister also has a red Acer in a pot in her garden which is lovely and established but also in mostly shade which I why I couldn’t figure out what I did wrong. But maybe in this shadier spot it might recover now?
Sorry I’m such a new gardener I have so many questions and worries so I know I’m rambling on a little.
Just a note for your balcony plants - some tropical plants are jungle-dwellers in nature - those ones prefer some shade and high humidity. Do check before you buy that you are choosing something that likes full sun and doesn't mind exposure to wind.
Doncaster, South Yorkshire. Soil type: sandy, well-drained
I’ve had my Acer in a pot for about 7 years .I’m about 8 miles from you in a market town so the same area weather wise . Ali I do is use compost of topsoil mixed with ericaceous compost ,a nice wide and deep pot and it gets afternoon sun and is sheltered by the garage wall. It’s very happy and growing well .
They can certainly be kept potted long term, but it's the site and the care that matters when potted. It should be happier there for now if that's more shaded, but I'd move it off the grass - some bits of batten or brick to sit it on. If you can put it on that paving, that would be better than directly on the grass. Early morning sun is more problematic in spring when soft, new foliage is emerging, as it can be hit hard by frosts. Autumn frosts are less of a problem because the foliage would be hardened up enough, although they can still get a bit of aesthetic damage from that. That's why they need some shade from that early sun if they're in that kind of aspect, and why a north to north west aspect is better. Too much sun in any aspect can be difficult, but wind also affects the foliage. When there's no shade from other planting, it can take a bit of experimenting until you get the right site. The fact that it's dropped all it's foliage so quickly, tells you it's been very stressed, and when potted, that's usually down to drought. The other alternative is that's it's waterlogged, but I'm assuming it has good drainage in the pot, and also isn't just in compost which could be affecting the moisture retention or drainage?
Small plants establish more easily than larger ones, which is possibly why the one your mum has will be coping more easily.
It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
Posts
If you want your tree to be happy, dig as big an area surrounding where you intend to plant it as you possibly can before planting it as your acer will send its roots out sideways as well as down. It sounds as if your neighbours failed to prepare their ground adequately to fail 3 times with a lawn. Unfortunately what you describe is part of taking on a new build plot. You need to dig down at least a couple of spades depth to remove rubble etc. before trying to use the plot for growing anything. Dig over the ground at least twice to make sure you get rid of as much rubbish as you can. A long hard job but better than constantly planting and then losing plants. Little and often is usually the way to tackle a project like yours.
People sometimes have to bring in supplementary topsoil after they have removed the rubble and stones from a new plot to make up for the volume lost.
Thanks again for the further suggestions. Now I’m really lost on what to do
This is my back garden:
(Sorry not sure why it flips the photos!)
This is my balcony:
All leaves now gone and if you can look closely you’ll see the new growth trying to come through turns black.
On a side note, I did want to make borders/ sleepers around my garden and fill them with proper soil/ dirt so I could do some gardening (I’ve really found my love for it) so that’s still on my list of projects but I think for next spring now. I’m just wondering if my garden is going to be any good? Maybe for growing veg more than anything? Because honestly the way the sun moved in the sky we don’t get much sunshine in the garden before it’s in shade and it’s not very hot sun. Our grass doesn’t grow the best because it’s constantly damp (if you can tel by the photos above).
Thank you again everyone!!!
I have just done some gardening in my front garden and the ground is full of clay, massive stones and terrible dirt. I’m going to make the assumption that my garden is the same (considering it’s a massive new build site).
In spring, I’m going to make some borders as adviser above and put organic soil etc and plant things they don’t mind mostly shade
For the balcony, I’ll go for tropical trees/ plants from now on!
With that in mind, can you tell us which corner of the grassed area gets evening or late afternoon sun rather than morning sun?
Morning sun can fry new foliage and is best avoided, especially as you have no plants in the garden at all. If the best part is near the large wall, that could be ideal, but only if it isn't in the direct path of the prevailing wind. A north to north west facing site is the best in most circumstances.
What you'll currently have is poor, rubble laden soil as it's a new build. It's very common, but is easily remedied though, by creating a simple raised bed, rather than spending a long time improving the existing soil, especially as you have a plant which needs help. That can be made with timber, block, brick, sleepers or anything you fancy, depending on budget and what you like. It doesn't have to be enormous - around 6 to 9 inches in height, to give you a decent amount of depth for the plant. If you choose timber, make sure it's lined, to help preserve moisture, and to prevent rotting.
If you can determine the best site, working with what I've described, you can make the raised bed and fill it with a mix of soil, rotted manure and also some grit if it's only a small area. In a big area, a mix of soil and rotted manure is ideal as it makes a good mix but with enough drainage. You can buy that in bags from GCs or diy stores. Soil comes in bags of just general top soil, but you can also get products with the name John Innes, which is just a formula, so if you pick that, just look for one which will be suitable for shrubs.
You can add some general compost too if you want, or even an ericaceous one, which will suit the acer, and the soil level will settle over time, so it's important to plant your acer at the same level as it is in the pot, but make sure that isn't too low - around the same level as the top of the bed edging or only very slightly lower. That means that when you add new soil, the trunk won't be getting covered up.
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
It's probably best not to over-react to a bit of leaf burn or defoliation, especially in a young plant. The lacy leaved ones - and golden leaved ones - are a little more prone. Just keep calm and carry on watering as usual (a really good drink once a week or possibly twice when it's hot).
Feeding isn't really something you should worry about. Unless it's been in the same pot for a couple of years or more it will probably have all the nutrients it needs.
When the plant is a good size, and you have created a nice border in your garden with decent soil, that is when you can plant it into the ground.
I moved the Acer next to my Rose tree:
It should be happier there for now if that's more shaded, but I'd move it off the grass - some bits of batten or brick to sit it on. If you can put it on that paving, that would be better than directly on the grass.
Early morning sun is more problematic in spring when soft, new foliage is emerging, as it can be hit hard by frosts. Autumn frosts are less of a problem because the foliage would be hardened up enough, although they can still get a bit of aesthetic damage from that. That's why they need some shade from that early sun if they're in that kind of aspect, and why a north to north west aspect is better. Too much sun in any aspect can be difficult, but wind also affects the foliage. When there's no shade from other planting, it can take a bit of experimenting until you get the right site.
The fact that it's dropped all it's foliage so quickly, tells you it's been very stressed, and when potted, that's usually down to drought. The other alternative is that's it's waterlogged, but I'm assuming it has good drainage in the pot, and also isn't just in compost which could be affecting the moisture retention or drainage?
Small plants establish more easily than larger ones, which is possibly why the one your mum has will be coping more easily.
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...