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Edges for my garden bed

gregorhanslikgregorhanslik Posts: 31
in Garden design
Hello everyone,

Advice wanted! I'm digging some new beds and wanted to ask some questions. I've dug about 1 foot down and started filling them back in, as in the photos.

Firstly, is there any need to put some kind of edging on the bed to stop the grass growing back in? If I don't, what would be the long term issues? (Would rather invest now rather than later).

Secondly, I would normally raise the bed height to be 'above' the grass height, but I've seen a lot of people leave the beds lower. Pros / Cons?

Thirdly, I have some leaf matter, cuttings etc and wondered if it would be worth mixing these into the lower layers of soil before adding the final layers. I have clay soil, have been chopping it up and mixing in coconut coir, and will also probably add some manure.

Ignore the tomato patch in the corner, that will come out once they've been harvested.

Nothing going in the bed just yet, but would be great to have it ready for next spring, which would mean planting later this year, methinks.

Thanks,

Rafe

Posts

  • AnniDAnniD Posts: 12,585
    You could invest in something such as Everedge, that would give a neat finish, alternatively you could just keep the edges neat using a half moon edger.
    As for the level, personally l would keep it lower than the lawn, it makes things easier when you come to mow nearer to the edge.

    Depending on what you are planning to plant, Autumn plating is probably best, especially after all the rain we've had this year.
  • LoxleyLoxley Posts: 5,698
    Keep the bed lower, so you can trim the edge and maintain it with a half-moon edger. You can use Everedge etc, or bricks in mortar, and so on, but to be honest they aren't that much easier to maintain than a half-moon edged lawn if you are looking for a crisp edge.
    "What is hateful to you, do not do to your neighbour". 
  • TopbirdTopbird Posts: 8,355
    edited July 2023
    I would dig in lots of well rotted bulky organic matter. Save your cuttings etc and start a compost bin. You can buy well rotted farmyard manure from the garden centre - maybe 3 bags (usually about 60 litres per bag) for that area in the photos. If you get it and dig it in well immediately, it will be probably be ready for planting in October / November - definitely ready next spring.

    I have amended my clay soil with lots of organic matter over the years, including several truckloads (literally) of spent mushroom compost. I also mulch thickly at least once every 2 years with homemade compost. 

    My beds were dug out of the lawn and, with all the material and plants added over the last 10 years, the beds now stand nearly 6" higher than the lawn. Personally, I prefer that look.

    They are not edged with a physical barrier, but I maintain a fairly deep 'gutter' along the edge of the beds and keep the lawn edges sharply trimmed with edging shears. Elsewhere in the garden I have lawn abutting shingle driveways and patios. There I have used single width brick style paviors (properly mortared in) as an edging to keep the shingle out of the grass. It works well and makes for a smart yet slightly rustic edging and would also work where grass meets soil.

    I would only suggest considering using a permanent barrier type edging to your lawn if you know that you're definitely not going to change the shape / depth of the beds and / or you just know deep down that you won't be a lawn edger type of gardener. IMO an un-edged lawn always look a bit of a mess.
    Heaven is ... sitting in the garden with a G&T and a cat while watching the sun go down
  • LoxleyLoxley Posts: 5,698
    Yes when I was talking about the beds being lower than the lawn I was meaning that gutter, which is required to edge the lawn. The bed can mound up away from the edge, in fact that's a great idea for drainage etc
    "What is hateful to you, do not do to your neighbour". 
  • Busy-LizzieBusy-Lizzie Posts: 24,043
    When I saw your question I was going to answer it but @Topbird has already said everything I would have said 🙂 As you have clay soil dig in lots of compost, even if you have to buy several sacks of it. Then mulch every year.

    I use a half moon edger once or twice a year and long handled edging shears when neceesary.
    Dordogne and Norfolk. Clay in Dordogne, sandy in Norfolk.
  • JennyJJennyJ Posts: 10,576
    The edges of the grass will need regular trimming (with shears or similar) whether or not you use an edging. If you have soil that stays moist and holds its shape when you cut the edges with an edging iron an edging is mostly about appearance, or to give plants a bit of leeway to overhang without shading out the grass. If you have soil that crumbles as soon as it dries along the edges then an edge of some sort is better. Mine is block pavers, laid width-wise so the width of the edging is the length of the paver. That way the plants in my borders can overhang a fair bit to soften the edges, and I can stand on the edging when the grass is a bit wet.
    Doncaster, South Yorkshire. Soil type: sandy, well-drained
  • gregorhanslikgregorhanslik Posts: 31
    Thanks everyone, advice much appreciated. I think I'll try to do a 'drop' at the edge of the border and then build up higher - the hole I dug wasn't that deep and the ground at the bottom is pretty tough. 

    I was worried the grass was going to grow into the bed but it seems like that can be controlled with regular trimming.

    Will give the mushroom compost a try!


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