Pests and Heavy Clay

philturner1989i9U_zyk8 · July 2023

Hi all,

Hoping I'm not looking for the holy grail here but I have a real problem in my garden with pests eating my raspberries and my hops, loads of aphids. Everything seems to be dying or being eaten in my garden

I'm very much a novice gardener and don't really know what I'm doing when it comes to pruning etc.

I have heavy clay soil and my borders have some nice mature plants but a lot of spaces where brambles and mares tail had taken over. I've done my best to clear what I can, although I know the mares tail is relentless and I'll see it again shortly.

Are there any particular plants/combinations of plants I can sow with relative ease that a) will grow in clay b) isn't toxic to cats c) has nice variation of colour d) won't take over the mature plants e) will attract beneficial insects or deter the pests and f) could help suppress the weeds a little...? Bonus if there are any edible herbs that could work. I enjoy the look of a wildflower meadow but also want to keep a well defined lawn.

Really appreciate any help and advice here, cheers, Phil

Fairygirl · July 2023

The problem is - clay needs amended so that it suits more plants. If you do that, you'll have more scope for planting. The way to do it is to add loads of organic matter on a regular basis. Rotted manure, compost, leaf mould etc. Encouraging birds helps with aphid control, but crowded plants and those with soft new growth will always attract more
Sowing seed directly isn't always easy either, especially in wet, cold areas, so it's best done in trays or pots, grown on and planted out when big enough to thrive.

The aspect of the borders is also a factor, as is your location. What survives in the south of England won't necessarily survive in Sutherland or Shetland.
A photo or two of your site will also help as we don't know what room you have or what else is there. Other planting/buildings/fences etc all have an effect on how plants thrive.

Simone_in_Wiltshire · July 2023

Can you give us the size of your garden, your location, and a few pictures @philturner1989i9U_zyk8

philturner1989i9U_zyk8 · July 2023

Thanks guys, can only find this pic taken last Summer but it hasn't changed much, perhaps not the easiest to make out but it's the border down the left hand side in question, we are in Birmingham UK. Not entirely sure how long the border is, maybe 12m... most of it is not more than 1m deep from grass to fence we are south west facing and back onto woodland so the garden gets good Sun through the day but becomes quite shaded into the evening. We are also pushing the fence at the bottom back 2m as this is our land but had only been used for compost bins and grass clippings, the soil there seems a lot better I assume as a result of this. Border down the right we are happy to keep less 'cluttered' as it is.

Incidentally, the 3 palm-ish looking trees (sorry not a clue what they are) in the foreground are looking terrible at the moment. One went very slimy on the trunk where the leaves come out and lost all its leaves, the others are not starting to do the same. There are lots of new shoots at the bottom of the trunks though, is this normal?

One again, appreciate any advice 😊

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/6030279/uploads/editor/eu/sz48qcutis15.jpg

Simone_in_Wiltshire · July 2023

Sorry for the delay in responding to your message @philturner1989i9U_zyk8
Having a border around a lawn is a quite common idea for garden design in previous decades, but reality is that you will have more problems than advantages. First of all, just a metre by the fence means there is not enough airflow and rain so close to the fence. The poor conditions suit just plants that grow in all conditions.

It depends on your eligibility to do changes but I would dig up all the weeds that and start thinking about a new design.

I have a metre along the fence to the west where even weeds didn’t grow and I didn’t have anything, it was just a path. 3 years later, I started changing it into soil that allows planting and I have more shady plants there. I’m on clay soil and added a lot of compost.

philturner1989i9U_zyk8 · July 2023

Simone_in_Wiltshire said:

Sorry for the delay in responding to your message @philturner1989i9U_zyk8
Having a border around a lawn is a quite common idea for garden design in previous decades, but reality is that you will have more problems than advantages. First of all, just a metre by the fence means there is not enough airflow and rain so close to the fence. The poor conditions suit just plants that grow in all conditions.
It depends on your eligibility to do changes but I would dig up all the weeds that and start thinking about a new design.

I have a metre along the fence to the west where even weeds didn’t grow and I didn’t have anything, it was just a path. 3 years later, I started changing it into soil that allows planting and I have more shady plants there. I’m on clay soil and added a lot of compost.

Thanks for getting back to me, to be honest I'm not set on planting a lot, I just wasn't sure what to do with the empty spaces when the weeds are dug up.

The larger plants along there seem well established enough to be healthy and provide enough of a screen from the neighbours. Would it be feasible to dig up the weeds, improve the soil and plant grass seed to eliminate the border? At least then I can keep the mares tail in check with the mower.

Simone_in_Wiltshire · July 2023

Definitely @philturner1989i9U_zyk8. Dig out what is possible and cut/mow where it’s suitable.

Allotment Boy · July 2023

Nature abhors a vacuum-remember that from school? It means if there is an empty space something will want to fill it up, if you leave bare soil weed seed (always present) will germinate and grow. Mulch after you weed, this means add 5-10cm of any well rotted organic matter you can get hold of, or there is a mineralised straw product you see advertised a lot in garden mags if you have no other supply. This will do two things, it will suppress the weeds and help amend the clay soil as worms etc will gradually incorporate it. It will also help retain moisture, and slowly feed so you don't get soft sappy growth. It will look good too. As already said once you sort the soil out then you can think about plants.
BTW you have a nice looking Acer to the left of pic.

raisingirl · July 2023

Hardy geraniums will grow in clay, sprawl over the ground and are not particularly prone to aphids. They disappear in Winter and the flowering period for most of them is relatively short, in early summer.
Foxgloves will grow anywhere, in any soil. Their leaves are usually present over winter but they also only flower for a fairly short period of time.
Herbs - most Mediterranean type herbs like poor, light soil, so wouldn't be great in clay. Mint will grow - the problem would be stopping it. Marjoram might grow - it copes with my clay - it's evergreen, the bees love it and you can use it like oregano.
Bulbs and corms are generally not fussy - daffs in spring, camassia and alliums for early summer and crocosmia just coming into flower now. Pretty oblivious to pests in my experience. You need to avoid the short orange flowered species crocosmia that is often called montbretia. It's invasive. But there are lots of much nicer, taller, clump forming ones that are better behaved. 'Lucifer' is one of the most famous, but I also like 'Fugue', 'Cornish Copper' and 'Coleton Fishacre'. 'George Davidson' and 'Emily Mackenzie' are both quite small and good at covering ground but not quite so set on word domination as the wild one.

John Harding · July 2023

Many years ago I had a friend who had an arable farm near Ely in Cambridgeshire with an unusually heavy clay soil for the region. He told me that Horse manure will lighten a heavy clay soil whereas Cow manure will make it heavier so I have used that info over the years to good effect. Fortunately we have a number of stables close to us but do need to check if they use straw or wood chips/shavings - straw is best. John H

Pests and Heavy Clay

Posts