I suspect the problem is poor soil, rather than soil pH. They need a moisture retentive soil. Long term you cannot alter the pH of a large mass of soil.
How can you lie there and think of England When you don't even know who's in the team
I think the bigger problem with poor soil for hydrangeas is lack of moisture-retentiveness. Badminton House have probably been piling in manure for centuries and built up a rich fertile retentive layer. Most of us can only dream of soil with that kind of history.
We've probably all at some point tried to grow something we love that isn't really suited to the conditions. Often it ends in failure or a mediocre specimen, but just occasionally there's a surprise success. Good luck with it!
Doncaster, South Yorkshire. Soil type: sandy, well-drained
As no scientist, I have found in my veg only domain that things like runner beans and peas tend to be slow to start after a liberal application of fresh farmyard manure, usually in large quantities. I then resort to granular lime to rectify that problem BUT it might suggest that, to achieve a reverse effect, a good dollop of said farmyard could improve acidity, but I think 'fresh' is the operative word?
It takes a long time to successfully improve soil if it's poor, and you can't alter large areas of soil in terms of pH, as already said. If you don't want to grow plants that are suited to your conditions, the only alternative is to build raised beds which can then be filled accordingly. The white hydrangeas aren't affected by pH in the same way the coloured ones are, but they do need decent soil and moisture to establish, thrive and grow well. Moisture retentive soil in particular, as @JennyJ says.
It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
I have unlimited access to horse manure so I will do my best to mulch. I will also keep an eye out for signs of iron deficiency. It would be a useful experiment for me anyways and will inform future planting plans.
Don't use fresh manure. The urine content will burn plants. Ideally, you need to establish a rotation of piles so it can be left to rot for up to 2 years before going on or in the soil with plants.
Vendée - 20kms from Atlantic coast.
"The price good men (and women) pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men (and women)."
I DO use manure fresh but, before planting, in my case, the purple sprouting into what has, by then, become more acidic soil. The seedlings will have been grown from seed while the manure was rotting down.
Same here. Adding lime to the soil is a well known remedy to prevent club root and brassicas are well known for providing calcium in the diet of those who cannot tolerate milk products be that for health or ethical reasons.
Vendée - 20kms from Atlantic coast.
"The price good men (and women) pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men (and women)."
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Long term you cannot alter the pH of a large mass of soil.
When you don't even know who's in the team
S.Yorkshire/Derbyshire border
If you don't want to grow plants that are suited to your conditions, the only alternative is to build raised beds which can then be filled accordingly.
The white hydrangeas aren't affected by pH in the same way the coloured ones are, but they do need decent soil and moisture to establish, thrive and grow well. Moisture retentive soil in particular, as @JennyJ says.
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
To neutralise and dissolve out all the CaCo3 from chalk with 5% clay content will take about 300 gm conc HCL per 1kg chalk and produce ca 50g soil
Alternatively you could let slightly acidic rain work over several thousand years.
Neither is very practicable. Better to choose you plants for the soil you have, or to choose your house for the soil it has.
E&OE.
"Have nothing in your garden that you don't know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful."
When you don't even know who's in the team
S.Yorkshire/Derbyshire border