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Tomato with two main stems

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  • MikeOxgreenMikeOxgreen Posts: 812
    Some people have been doing the same thing for a very long time …
    https://www.allotments4all.co.uk/smf/index.php/topic,69763.0.html 

    😉 

    Many people do things wrong all of their lives so that doesn't mean much.
    To a certain degree, if a plant has enough energy to produce 5kg of fruit then it'll either grow 25 big toms which equal 5kg or 50 small toms which add up to 5kg.

  • Of an indeterminate plant this is utter rubbish.

    tell  that to RHS they found pruning is not required. 

    to stop blight you need to spray plants with correct chemicals


  • MikeOxgreenMikeOxgreen Posts: 812


    Of an indeterminate plant this is utter rubbish.

    tell  that to RHS they found pruning is not required. 

    to stop blight you need to spray plants with correct chemicals


    https://www.rhs.org.uk/vegetables/tomatoes/grow-your-own


    Cordon tomatoes – removing side-shoots 


    "Cordon tomatoes are best grown as single-stemmed plants. However, these vigorous plants naturally produce side-shoots from the joints where leaves sprout from the main stem. These side-shoots should be pinched out to keep plants growing vertically on just one stem. If they’re not removed, the side-shoots grow rapidly, forming a mass of long, scrambling, leafy stems that are difficult to support, produce few fruits and take up a lot of space. "

  • floraliesfloralies Posts: 2,718
    Perhaps you would like to see my sun scorched tomatoes  @MikeOxgreen if and when the sun ever returns.
  • REMF33REMF33 Posts: 731
    I don't prune mine and don't keep on top of side shoots towards the end of the season. I have bumper crops (still eating frozen passata from last year). Main reason why I probably should prune is that the plants get top heavy and they require a hell of a lot of water when it's hot. (Big plants need more water and possibly, but possibly not, more leaves transpiring = greater water loss?) Tomatoes are very forgiving, though, disease aside. 
    Re blight and air flow... my suspicion is that if blight if is in the air, it will be hard to avoid. Last time I had it, so did all of my neighbours. They are both more careful than me with their tomatoes, spacing them out better than I do (mine are in quadgrows so quite close together) not letting them get out of hand but not very hard pruning them either, admittedly. But that's just anecdotal, not remotely scientific.
    A sizeable proportion of my plants are now always blight resistant varieties, following Dovefromabove's very sensible suggestion to me some years ago after I lost all my plants.
    But to go back to the original question, I don't think there is a 'right' answer. I suppose you could cut the extra branch off and see if you can root it and get another plant... would be an interesting experiment. Not sure if it works with big branches/stems though.
    Has anyone tried this?
  • Busy-LizzieBusy-Lizzie Posts: 24,043
     I will tie both to the steak but if one grows too far sideways I will give it a cane to tie it to.
    Any recommendations on type of steak? T-bone or fillet perhaps?
    Ha ha! Fillet please.

    Obvious typo 
    Dordogne and Norfolk. Clay in Dordogne, sandy in Norfolk.
  • MikeOxgreenMikeOxgreen Posts: 812
    REMF33 said:
     I suppose you could cut the extra branch off and see if you can root it and get another plant... would be an interesting experiment. Not sure if it works with big branches/stems though.
    Has anyone tried this?
    I've never had cause to do it, but have see it mentioned plenty of times, apparently it's very easy to duplicate toms via cuttings.
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