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Camelia dropping buds

Grandad 99Grandad 99 Posts: 52
in Problem solving
  
The photo shows the problem.  No blossom this year so what do I need to do to stop it happening again next year?

Posts

  • bullfinchbullfinch Posts: 692
    Camellias need plenty of water during the summer, as this is when the flower buds start to form . Last year was so hot and dry that they probably needed more than usual. If you have had the sub-zero temperatures that We have at the end of the winter, that will also have been a problem. Any buds left on the plant may also have been affected by that.
    I know how disheartening it is,  we have lost loads of buds this year because of the weather it makes me sad to see them shrivelled  up   :(
  • Grandad 99Grandad 99 Posts: 52
    Thanks. Can sort the watering and just cross fingers for the weather.
    As it's in a tub would a net protect it against frost?

  • FairygirlFairygirl Posts: 55,117
    If you have somewhere more sheltered to keep it at this time of year, that's far better than trying to cover it in any way. Against a house wall for example. In the north east of Scotland, many people keep them in greenhouses over the depths of winter, but that's because a potted plant in the temps there is extremely difficult to keep alive. It's the roots getting wet then frozen that's the problem, so you could fleece the pot in future if you're going to get temps well below minus five, long term. 
    It's also more difficult to keep them in pots as the pots have to be a really good size - especially in width. They need the soil refreshed every year, and plenty of mulching when they're moist, plus a slow release food or similar. It should be much bushier than that, so it probably isn't very happy. 

    Mild weather followed by the weather at the start of March will have affected it, in the same way that very rough weather through April does damage with buds/ flowers.
    As @bullfinch says - it's late summer when the buds are forming, so that's the key time with water. If you live in a hard water area it's worth collecting rainwater too.  :)
    It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....



    I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
  • bédébédé Posts: 3,095
    edited April 2023
    Grandad 99 said:
    Thanks. Can sort the watering and just cross fingers for the weather.
    As it's in a tub would a net protect it against frost?

    I agree about the watering.

    A net, or better a fleece, would protect against a brief ground-frost.  A longer period of, say, -5ºC would get through. Especially if accompanied by a wind.  My mophead baytree under a fleece was nipped, it looks bad but it was restricted to just the tips. 

    Insulation only slows down heat transfer, it doesn't stop it.
     location: Surrey Hills, England, ex-woodland acidic sand.
    "Have nothing in your garden that you don't know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful."
  • Nanny BeachNanny Beach Posts: 8,719
    How long have you had it? Which way does your garden face, where are you situated,that will have a bearing. I have kept them in pots (ericaceous compost) but yes watering.... rainwater is a nightmare.
  • bédébédé Posts: 3,095
    edited April 2023
    Nanny Beach said:
    I have kept them in pots (ericaceous compost) but yes watering.... rainwater is a nightmare.
    "Tapwater good, rainwater better."   George Orwell

    Tapwater can be soft, check your area.   If you really want zero calcium use clothes-dryer condensate (I use dehumidifier condensate on my orchids)
     location: Surrey Hills, England, ex-woodland acidic sand.
    "Have nothing in your garden that you don't know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful."
  • Grandad 99Grandad 99 Posts: 52
    Rainwater from a butt
  • Grandad 99Grandad 99 Posts: 52
    South facing in Kent.

    "Soil refreshed every year" The top xx inches or ...?
  • bullfinchbullfinch Posts: 692
    I have to admit, we don't give ours any new soil unless we repot them. But they are fed regularly, once a fortnight between May and September with a liquid ericaceous feed.
    They are watered weekly (with rain water if there is any), and last summer probably twice a week (tap water then unfortunately!)The larger ones, which are in half barrels would normally get a watering can each.
    @Fairygirl is right, you can move them into a sheltered position if you know it is going to be really cold. Also it helps if they don't get early morning sun after a frost as that can spoil the flowers.
    But, as I keep reminding myself, there's always next year  :)
  • FairygirlFairygirl Posts: 55,117
    An even better way of protecting pots is to get them in a sheltered spot, but with a load of other pots/plants around them. That's actually better than fleece, because if your timing's wrong with that, it can have a negative effect too as it traps cold as much as it traps heat. I think I worded my previous post rather poorly too re temps. I should have said if you get temps well below zero, to around minus five. Beyond that and they're better off inside. Down to that level is rarely a problem, and they're obviously fine when grown in the ground, anywhere in the UK as long as they aren't in very exposed sites. 
    As @bullfinch says - the frost melting in early sun can be detrimental to those buds too.

    The top couple of inches or so is what you should refresh @Grandad 99, and you can use an ericaceous compost for that. Just what you can easily remove around the top without disturbing any roots.  However, if it's staying potted, it should be in a soil based medium, not just compost. You can get those in GCs etc. Compost alone isn't enough for any plant, especially a shrub or tree, long term  :)
    It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....



    I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
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