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Hydrangea help- newbie

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  • LynLyn Posts: 23,190
    I assume assumed it wasn’t a Paniculata by its growing habit and the fact it’s in leaf now,    My paniculata have got any leaf buds yet. 
    Gardening on the wild, windy west side of Dartmoor. 

  • PlantmindedPlantminded Posts: 3,580
    Your plant looks like my Hydrangea macrophylla which is now well in bud, like yours. My H. paniculata are only just beginning to bud on close inspection! I reckon that @Lyn's assumption is right!
    Wirral. Sandy, free draining soil.


  • FairygirlFairygirl Posts: 55,117
    Good point @Lyn. Technically, the only paniculata I have are oak leaf hydrangeas, and their habit is quite different from the more usual paniculatas. There's not really much showing on them yet.

    There isn't anything much on the other [mophead] ones either, and they've had another tough time with the mild weather followed by freezing in March. No flowers to speak of last year because of late freezing.  They wouldn't normally be starting to green up until about now in most years. I hate this mild winter weather!
    It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....



    I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
  • bédébédé Posts: 3,095
    edited April 2023
    I trust that the original poster will keep this hydrangea (macrophylla - mophead or lacecap) and possibly tackle any pruning over the Easter w/e.

    But for other growers, it is worth stating that hydrangeas are difficut to keep to ones desired size without losing flowers.  For that reason, you must take care that you choose a plant with regard to its eventual size.

    It is possible to compromise by only removing completely very old wood, and pruning last years budding growth back only as far as a very big bud.

    I have a "Libelle" that is marginal-hardy in Surrey.  It is planted close up against a south-facing house wall; elsewhere plants have died on me.  It would like to grow bigger, but I keep it below window level by very careful pruning in March/early April.

    The OP could start by thinning out drastically any dead, very old and thin/weak growth. Then stand back and assess.  What is left should give some flowers this year.  Be a bit more drastic next spring.  

    I don't think that my advice differs too much from Robert's, but with the proviso: if you cut too much off in one go, and then you get a late frost whilst the sap is flowing, you may lose the whole plant.  I don't know where you are, but we have had a frost in Surrey as late as June.
     location: Surrey Hills, England, ex-woodland acidic sand.
    "Have nothing in your garden that you don't know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful."
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