It needs pruning because it's getting a bit wide and another year's growth could cause a problem. I need advice because it's a good shape and I don't want to ruin it. At, the appropriate time, I will ask for advice on where and how much to prune. At this stage, I wanted to know whether branches can be cut half way along. I now know that this is a bad idea. The acer has open structure inside, which I believe to be a good thing and there is no significant crossover of mature branches. I will have a look at this year's growth after leaf drop to see if that looks likely to be a problem.
I like trees and shrubs which are allowed to show their personality, not bent to the whim of the gardener. There's a lot of "Irish pruning" going on around here, which seems to aim to turn everything into a neat blob, bearing no relation to the shape it would have naturally... very tidy, but no soul IMO.
Since 2019 I've lived in east Clare, in the west of Ireland.
I am beginning to understand why the UK guarding professionals always say do not prune Acers except in winter when dormant. They are frightened of giving advice as opinions seem to vary so much. I repeat for the umpteenth time , the Japanese prune and shape Acers in all 4main seasons except very late winter early spring when the sap is rising. Large structural cuts do need to be done when dormant, but other shaping can be done through the year. I think sometimes you need to see the leaves to know the final shape not all of us have the vision to see this on a bare tree. This is where photographs help, yes tie a bit of string to a branch but be prepared for it to dissappear so it's not there when you want it. (Magpies and Jays are my prime suspects). Buds may not be visible further back but if you shorten long extension growth Acers will backbud. I agree it can be a slow process, you will not get the final shape you want after one year. You may not want this sort of shape, but this has taken about 5 years to achieve, starting with a standard tree. This was late sping/ early summer so it had not developed its full red colour.
My mum has done that to what could be a beautiful deep maroon acer. I tell her that and she nods and smiles and the next time the gardener comes, she gets him to tidy it up😞
I like trees and shrubs which are allowed to show their personality, not bent to the whim of the gardener.
I like children and dogs that are allowed to show their personality, not bent to the whim of the parent/owner. I see what you mean, but it doesn't always work out well.
Spare the saw and spoil the shrub!
location: Surrey Hills, England, ex-woodland acidic sand. "Have nothing in your garden that you don't know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful."
I admit to nibbling off new season's growth where necessary . No problem. Secateurable branches don't concern me so much. It's getting the saw out that scares the BJs out of me - so I leave it till next year and next year....
Take time to contemplate @B3! I had a very overgrown Acer here when l moved in and had to do some major branch removal to get access to the path beneath it. I started by raising the crown one year then further shaping on successive years. Before and after the foliage has gone, take some photos from different angles, print them out and then get to work with a marker pen. That should help you decide on your action plan!
Take time to contemplate @B3! I had a very overgrown Acer here when l moved in and had to do some major branch removal to get access to the path beneath it. I started by raising the crown one year then further shaping on successive years. Before and after the foliage has gone, take some photos from different angles, print them out and then get to work with a marker pen. That should help you decide on your action plan!
Yes this is that same thing as I am talking about. Pruning so it still looks like the tree or shub it should be but not so big it takes over the whole garden.
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At this stage, I wanted to know whether branches can be cut half way along. I now know that this is a bad idea. The acer has open structure inside, which I believe to be a good thing and there is no significant crossover of mature branches. I will have a look at this year's growth after leaf drop to see if that looks likely to be a problem.
I like trees and shrubs which are allowed to show their personality, not bent to the whim of the gardener. There's a lot of "Irish pruning" going on around here, which seems to aim to turn everything into a neat blob, bearing no relation to the shape it would have naturally... very tidy, but no soul IMO.
I repeat for the umpteenth time , the Japanese prune and shape Acers in all 4main seasons except very late winter early spring when the sap is rising. Large structural cuts do need to be done when dormant, but other shaping can be done through the year.
I think sometimes you need to see the leaves to know the final shape not all of us have the vision to see this on a bare tree. This is where photographs help, yes tie a bit of string to a branch but be prepared for it to dissappear so it's not there when you want it. (Magpies and Jays are my prime suspects).
Buds may not be visible further back but if you shorten long extension growth Acers will backbud. I agree it can be a slow process, you will not get the final shape you want after one year.
You may not want this sort of shape, but this has taken about 5 years to achieve, starting with a standard tree. This was late sping/ early summer so it had not developed its full red colour.
Spare the saw and spoil the shrub!
"Have nothing in your garden that you don't know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful."