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Liquid ambar dead?

My 10 year old Liquid Ambar was very slow to come into leaf this year - not until June!
It also suffered in the recent drought by some leaves dropping and some turning autumnal. However, in the last 2 weeks all the leaves have curled up and died on the tree. Is this all a sign that it has finally succumbed? There is a little sap run at the base of the tree but otherwise nothing else that looks diseased.  I'm really missing its beautiful autumn show!
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  • Hello @priorsodBHs09S and welcome to the forum  :)

    Can you upload some photos of your tree onto the forum  please ... the whole tree, a closeup of some leaves, the problem at the base and anything else you think might be pertinent. 

    Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.





  • I have two Liquidambars in my garden (6years old) and they do take a while to come into leaf each spring. They are growing in improved clay soil which never dries out. We didn't feel the effects of the drought in the NW as much as down south..still got hot though! And I did water them more than occasionally.
    If there is any sign of life I would start by watering it...alot. Give it a good drowning 2 or 3 times a week. I suspect it's suffered from lack of water. Then, unless it's clearly dead, give it till next spring.
  • bédébédé Posts: 3,095
    Check for Honey Fungus, aka Bootlace Fungus.
     location: Surrey Hills, England, ex-woodland acidic sand.
    "Have nothing in your garden that you don't know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful."
  • I have two Liquidambars in my garden (6years old) and they do take a while to come into leaf each spring. They are growing in improved clay soil which never dries out. We didn't feel the effects of the drought in the NW as much as down south..still got hot though! And I did water them more than occasionally.
    If there is any sign of life I would start by watering it...alot. Give it a good drowning 2 or 3 times a week. I suspect it's suffered from lack of water. Then, unless it's clearly dead, give it till next spring.
    Thank you for your response Chris. I have never watered any of the trees in my garden but maybe I should have done this year! 
    I'll try watering it regularly from now on and fingers crossed it will come back to life in spring.
  • Hello @priorsodBHs09S and welcome to the forum  :)

    Can you upload some photos of your tree onto the forum  please ... the whole tree, a closeup of some leaves, the problem at the base and anything else you think might be pertinent. 
    Hi Dovefromabove, I'll do that. Thank you. 
  • UffUff Posts: 3,199
    Will you post a picture of the sap run that you mentioned please @priorsodBHs09S you might get a definitive diagnosis.
    SW SCOTLAND but born in Derbyshire
  • Uff said:
    Will you post a picture of the sap run that you mentioned please @priorsodBHs09S you might get a definitive diagnosis.
    I've taken some photos of the sap run, the bark, the leaves and the whole tree and will post them.
    I'm now wondering if those strange bumps have something to do with it? Is the tree supposed to have a smooth bark? 😨
  • UffUff Posts: 3,199
    Thank you for the pictures @priorsodBHs09S
    When you mentioned the sap I wondered if it might be phytophthora gumosis but I checked on that, which isn't conclusive but came up with this below from Garden Guides which I think is an American site, that can infect liquid amber so I'm not sure. Perhaps you can come up with a conclusion after reading it. The knobbly bark looks fine to me as that's how it is with that tree. Here's the link that shows a pic of the leaves.
    https://www.gardenguides.com/12256839-liquid-amber-tree-diseases.html


    ''

    Bacterial Leaf Scorch

    Though this disease is not particularly common among sweet gum trees, bacterial leaf scorch can be devastating to the life of a tree. Bacterial leaf scorch causes obvious symptoms of leaf scorch, which involves the normally beautiful leaves of the liquid amber tree to appear a burnt-looking dark orange or brown color. Generally, there will be a sharp yellow line or hallow separating the scorched, damaged tissue from the healthy tissue of the leaf. Bacterial leaf scorch will also cause premature browning of the leaves.

    The infection is spread from leaf to leaf, or from branch to branch, by insects traveling among the branches of the tree. Generally speaking, pruning tools will not spread the disease from branch to branch; you can sterilize the blades of your trimming shears or other pruning tools in between each use to be sure. There is no sure-fire way to prevent or cure bacterial leaf scorch. This disease will gradually destroy the tree, generally taking a few years but killing the tree for sure. Certain chemical treatments can help to slow down the symptoms; consult with an expert at your local garden center or nursery for specific instructions regarding trees in your area.''

    SW SCOTLAND but born in Derbyshire
  • My suspicion is Honey fungus.  I lost an Osmanthus to it this year. The RHS expert I spoke to  said things can die branch by branch sometimes.   Try scraping some bark on a branch or two somewhere  inconspicuous, if its green then there is life and hope, water as discussed . If it's brown that's not good  dig down at the base of the tree where the trunk joins the base of the roots. Take a sharp knife and cut a small sliver of bark at that point.  If there are white fungal threads that's conclusive, of fungal disease even if not honey fungus itself,  the tree is doomed.
     I hope not for your sake. 
    AB Still learning

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