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What's happened to my roses?

Hi, 
Fairly new gardener here. I bought two lovely climbing roses from David Austin in the spring and planted in my garden against a south facing wall. They have been mulched with bark and fed regularly using specialist rose food. Roses were doing well until I went on holiday for two weeks and I think they got frazzled by the heat. Since then, growth has been stunted with extremely small leaves forming which are often crispy and brown on the edges. I have been pruning these regularly and I do have some flowers on them but the growth always seems to be small crispy leaves, even though they have been watered regularly now and the temperature has dropped. Flowers not affected although again a little smaller. No marks on the stems. Its definitely not black spot and I cant see any orange spores for rose rust. Any ideas what is causing this? I'm tempted to wait until spring and see how they perform as it could just be the spot is too sunny? 

Posts

  • Given the situation and their newness, I'm inclined to think that they have suffered root damage. A south-facing situation will have been the hottest spot in the garden and the drought and heat will have affected the upper layers of soil where your plants were. I suspect you may have planted potted specimens which will have restricted their roots to the top layer where it was worst of all. 

    Your roses are still alive, which is good news. I'd suggest bonemeal now and a good mulch (15-20 cm) this winter. Then next year, treat them as convalescents: water well, feed and try not to prune too much. It sounds as if you are over-pruning too and removing much of the strength they are struggling to establish. Your specimens will have arrived ready-pruned and would not need further pruning for some two or three years. The leaf issue you describe is probably drought-caused, so make sure they get some deep drenches with occasional fertiliser for the rest of this growing season.

    A good tip for the future is to buy your roses bare-root in the autumn. That way they have the whole winter season to establish their roots before spring and summer warmth. Also they have much larger roots--harder to plant but more likely to establish well and perform better in subsequent years.
  • Perfect. Thank you so much for answering @Cambridgerose12 - just the info I needed. 
  • bédébédé Posts: 3,095
    edited September 2022
    I've gone back to bare-roots and winter planting.  Modern composts, if they dry out and they do, will not rewet.  The result, death in year 1 and possibly even year 2 if they survive that long.  With bare-roota you have the same soil from roots to infinity.

    Another point.  If rootlets are killed by drought, they xan't take up water and will drown if waterd too much.
     location: Surrey Hills, England, ex-woodland acidic sand.
    "Have nothing in your garden that you don't know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful."
  • NollieNollie Posts: 7,529
    Late new growth is more sensitive to crisping and smaller leaves and flowers are a typical protective response to drought/lack of water, which takes a while to work itself out even when they are getting decent watering again. So personally I don’t think you have anything to worry about. It’s possible some of the finer feeder roots have dried out but the main tap root should be fine and they will recover.

    All deciduous plants including roses will soon be starting to turn and shed leaves for Autumn. When rose leaves start to senesce (die!) they will get spotty and discolour and they are more susceptible to fungal diseases as the weather cools, so when you see it happening, don’t worry about that either 😊  Just pick up any fallen leaves to try and prevent any fungal diseases from over-wintering in the ground and maybe spread a fresh mulch around the base.

    Remember not to water the foliage, just at the base, don’t feed going forward and reduce your watering going into winter.
    Mountainous Northern Catalunya, Spain. Hot summers, cold winters.
  • I don't know why you have been pruning them regularly. This will cause tender new growth to sprout immediately...and this summer has been challenging. Unsurprisingly, new growth will have shrivelled and suffered. A newly planted climbing rose should not need much pruning at all for the first couple of years, apart from removing the odd stray lateral. Deep watering (at least 10 litres) every week rather than daily sprinkling.
  • I agree with @rosaprimula ... they shouldn't have need pruning ... just deadheading ... and deep watering.  

    When you say they were 'fed regularly' ... how often is that? 

    If they were planted properly they shouldn't really need much feeding in the first year ... they need a chance to get their roots established before being encouraged to put on top growth.  

    Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.





  • FireFire Posts: 19,096
    edited September 2022
    bédé said:
     Modern composts, if they dry out and they do, will not rewet. 
    That's a radical exaggeration. I take it that your comment means "I like peat".

  • bédébédé Posts: 3,095
    edited September 2022
    I like peat.  

    I have not found a modern peat-free compost that comes anywhere near the performance.  And I have tried.  Commercial growers will be able to use peat, but many don't.

    I think mine was a helpful comment to make to the poster.  Perhaps a bit minimal, but sound.
     location: Surrey Hills, England, ex-woodland acidic sand.
    "Have nothing in your garden that you don't know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful."
  • LynLyn Posts: 23,190
    Why would they be in modern composts in the ground? 
    Gardening on the wild, windy west side of Dartmoor. 

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