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Apple tree hard pruning.

sydVEAG5VM2sydVEAG5VM2 Posts: 13
in Plants
The apple tree in the photo needs a severe height reduction as none of the apples are accessible and ruin when they fall. I have already removed the left hand fork which was the minor trunk, but what do I do now? The gradual pruning of branches that is recommended is not possible as they are all up high. I would like to get the tree down to 10 feet high which would make it manageable for pruning and harvesting. Will the tree survive if I cut the trunk at the 10 foot height I need, and when should I do it?
Twin Oaks NGS

Posts

  • sydVEAG5VM2sydVEAG5VM2 Posts: 13
    Difficult decision. The apples are nice but not a game changer. The problem with cutting it down is the root ball. This tree is around 50 years old, maybe more, so getting a new tree in the same spot could be impossible, short of hiring a digger. This is why I wondered about cutting the trunk to the 10 foot mark and then continue with judicious pruning if it hasn't killed it. The alternatives would be to leave it as is and continue composting the fallers, or remove the tree and reclaim the area with something else.
    Twin Oaks NGS
  • ChezNousChezNous Posts: 40
    I would get rid of the tree and reclaim the area for something else. In my limited experience of overgrown trees, once it becomes this unmanageable, it's time to move on and cut your losses (which doesn't seem that much in this case in terms of the fruit).
    Late to gardening .... @cheznousgarden
  • Pete.8Pete.8 Posts: 11,340
    I tend to agree with the 'get rid' option sadly.
    If you cut it right back to whatever height the tree will respond by throwing out masses of water shoots which you will then have to deal with.
    If you cut the water shoots off, the tree will send out more.
    You can deal with them by only removing about 1/3 each year, but it becomes a real problem - I know I've done it to one of mine and am still trying to get it under control.

    Being of the rose family it is unwise to plant an apple tree where there was one before due to rose replant diseases.

    Billericay - Essex

    Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit.
    Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.
  • sydVEAG5VM2sydVEAG5VM2 Posts: 13
    Thanks everyone for your comments. I just have to persuade my wife that felling is the best idea.
    Twin Oaks NGS
  • StephenSouthwestStephenSouthwest Posts: 635
    It seems to me that you've nothing to lose by cutting it down further to, say, 5 feet tall - it might become a productive tree after a year or two (or three) getting water shoots under control...
  • DovefromaboveDovefromabove Posts: 88,147
    edited September 2022
    Just a thought, but why not leave it and plant a Rambling Rector or Seagull or similar rose up it?  





    Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.





  • sydVEAG5VM2sydVEAG5VM2 Posts: 13
    StephenSouthwest said:
    It seems to me that you've nothing to lose by cutting it down further to, say, 5 feet tall - it might become a productive tree after a year or two (or three) getting water shoots under control...
    That's what we have decided. I reckon to cut it Feb/March and then see how it goes. At least we will be able to reach the watershoots.
    Twin Oaks NGS
  • sydVEAG5VM2sydVEAG5VM2 Posts: 13
    Dovefromabove said:
    Just a thought, but why not leave it and plant a Rambling Rector or Seagull or similar rose up it?  

    Anything rambling could run rampant with the other trees nearby. We are trying a rambler up an oak tree.



    Twin Oaks NGS
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