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Growing Privet from cuttings

cve60069cve60069 Posts: 8
Hello

I am wanting to grow a privet hedge from cuttings and would like some advice on how to do this.  Hopefully, I am going to grow a few hundred.

I would like to plant the cuttings in a dedicated area and then to move them when the roots have developed unless I am advised otherwise.

I am assuming I will have to dig the soil and break up all the soil-lumps and make the soil like a crumbly flour.  I will dig down a fork-depth.  I will add rooting compound to each cutting and I will plant the cuttings 6 inches apart.  Water the cuttings once a day using a watering can applied to the roots.

Do I need to add anything to the soil? The soil is clay with flints (Bognor, West Sussex) which currently is covered in stinging nettles and common weeds.  I shall weed the soil by hand, no chemicals. I am preparing the site this week-end with my intention to plant the cuttings the following weekend.

Please feel free to comment.  Regards Daniel

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Posts

  • LynLyn Posts: 23,190
    I’ve done a few,  but never direct,  I’ve always put them round the edge of flower pots and kept in the warm until rooted,  then potted on until big enough to go out.
     Maybe someone else has rooted them direct. 
    Gardening on the wild, windy west side of Dartmoor. 

  • KeenOnGreenKeenOnGreen Posts: 1,831
    Me too @Lyn I think you will have more success @cve60069 if you can propagate them in pots or troughs, with better soil/compost than your local ground conditions offer. I would worry that your cuttings will also be fighting with any weeds for water/nutrition.

    You should be able to put quite a lot of cuttings in a pot or trough, as long as you are not using tiny pots. Root hormone powder will help, but it's not essential, as Privet roots quite easily. 

    The most important thing is to get the technique correct. 

    1) Try to choose only fresh new shoots, there should be plenty right now
    2) About 5-6 inches or so in length is fine, don't be tempted to cut very long lengths
    3) Nip out the very top leaves at the tip
    4) Leave the two or three leaves just below the tip that you have nipped out
    5) Remove all other lower side shoots, to leave a bare stem
    6) Have pots/troughs of gritty, well-drained compost ready
    7) Gently shove your prepared cuttings into the soil, making sure about 3-4 inches of the bare stem is below the soil
    8) Water well, and leave in a bright but shaded spot (no direct sunlight). You should not need to water daily, unless the soil shows sign of drying out.

    If you have a propagator, or can use polythene to create a greenhouse effect (to give them more warmth), that will help. If you decide to do this, check regularly to make sure they are not too damp, as that can encourage mould. I have found they have a good rate of success compared to some other shrubs.

    If you have to plant them directly, then I would remove as much stones/pebble/flint as possible. I would then dig in some well-rotted manure, or good garden compost, to enrich the soil and break up the clay. Remove all weeds, and keep it completely weed free. As you have clay soil, you shouldn't need to water daily, unless it's a warm/dry spell. As mentioned above, avoid planting the cuttings in direct sunlight.  Best of luck.

  • thevictorianthevictorian Posts: 1,279
    Can't argue with the advice above. I haven't tried this in the ground either but have in large clear plastic containers that act like mini greenhouses. I filled a third up with a mix of sterile compost and vermiculite (about 50/50) and left them in my greenhouse but out of direct light. I think nearly everyone took but some took quite a few weeks to grow roots and this is why I think you will struggle more outside as humidity is key and it's not something you can control outside.
    Mine were potted on into 9 cm pots and pinched out for bushiness before being potted on once again before planting when about a foot tall. It wasn't my hedge but we grew about 300 in this way and they are slowly filling out to make a nice hedge but it isn't a super fast process. We did the same with pyracantha and laurel which grew a little faster.
  • cve60069cve60069 Posts: 8
    Thanks

    I will buy 300 compostable pots and grow them on my patio under a plastic sheet.  I might be able to borrow a green house.

    If I purchased grow-bags and used the material for the potting soil, would this be ok or should I buy top-soil.
  • thevictorianthevictorian Posts: 1,279
    They don't need a nutritious soil to grow the roots but will need it when you grow them on. The method we have used is just a clear plastic tub that you can get dozens and dozens of cutting in and it acts like a greenhouse but you can easily control the humidity in it. 
    The trouble I forsee with compostable pots is that they will have likely disintegrated before the plants are ready to go in the ground, so you'd be best to root them first before growing them on.
  • cve60069cve60069 Posts: 8
    Thanks.

    So I need to grow the plants in a propogator, say.  Am I able to plant the cuttings in the propogator quite close - say 1 inch apart?

    When will I know the plants have rooted please? How long will it take before I should be planting them on?
  • cve60069cve60069 Posts: 8
    I have rented half an acre near Bognor which I am going to turn into a garden. I will need a good 50 yards of privet!  Plan is to clear the site, ready it for a lawn and then plant the privet.  Probably August or September.  Is that too late in the year to plant Privet?
  • thevictorianthevictorian Posts: 1,279
    I've always grown them in a homemade propagator and you can cram them in really close if you have limited space. You know they have rooted because they begin to put on some top growth and if you give them a gentle pull, there will be resistence from the roots. I use a clear tub because you can also the roots from underneath.
    This is a great method for rooting them before potting on to be planted a year to so later but from your plans you may be better direct planting unrooted cuttings in the autumn like you would with dogwood. I've not done this with privet but it works with laurel and might be easier for you.

    The biggest downside is it will take quite some years to create a hedge this way as it will growing any hedge from cuttings. You can often get bare root hedging very cheaply in the winter so I'd have a look at that if you need a speedier option. 
  • cve60069cve60069 Posts: 8
    Dear all.

    Thanks for the replies. I decided against the privet.  I started to clear the land of weeds and the task is enormous but I have found that my borders are covered in the really large sweet blackberries so I think I will try to use the blackberries as my hedge. Cut them down to the ground and start again. Bet it will only take a couple of years to get a thick hedge - with fruit. Another learning curve.

    Dan
  • LynLyn Posts: 23,190
    If you want fruit you only cut down the already fruited stems,  if you cut it all off you won’t get fruit next year. 
    Gardening on the wild, windy west side of Dartmoor. 

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