If you take a look at the leaf tips on the meadow grasss ? (needs to be uncut). The tip will resemble the front of a boat.
Meadow grass loves regular watering and feed. supply that and it will flourish. Not a lot you can do about it apart from manage it, meadow grass has very shallow roots so will become dry and hungry fairly quickly and that is how you manage it, some chemicals are available but they will be eye watering to you ( £400 to 500 a litre )
Meadow grass reproduces by seed and this is from a baby seedling and give it 8 to 10 weeks will seed, the seed will also lay dormant for many years as well.
All grass species have different requirements on the amount of feed they need Fescue will grow with next to nothing, and very little water as well. Rye can take a lot more feed, but this does depend on how well your soil fauna is.
I think the lawn might be due, or overdue it's first trim? I'm pretty happy with how it seems to be establishing. There are several bare patches etc that I might be best to address after the next few cuts. Also a lot of seed heads and meadow grass which might just be a result of the length and time of year, but I'm sure you guys will know better to advise.
I've seen a Webb 46cm manual mower with roller on Screwfix which seems to be good, at £139.99 I'm not sure if that's cheap or expensive? Can you recommend.
I guess I'll also need a strimmer as not sure I'll be able to get tight to the ends for clean lines?
I think that's a fair price for a decent manual mower with a wide cut. Mine is a 38cm Bosch and was I think sixty-something but that was a few years ago and everything's going up. The only thing I wouldn't like about the one you've seen is that the grass box goes on the front. I prefer the box on the back under the handles, but that's purely a personal preference because my grass areas are small and I can get nearer the edges without the box bumping into the plants in my borders.
You'll definitely need something else to trim right up to the fence, particularly in the corners - either a strimmer or some kind of shears. I find I get a tidier finish with one-handed shears but it's a hands-and-knees job - again personal preference. Long-handled shears that you use standing up is another option but I don't get on with them (partly because the handles are always too long for me).
Doncaster, South Yorkshire. Soil type: sandy, well-drained
I think that's a fair price for a decent manual mower with a wide cut. Mine is a 38cm Bosch and was I think sixty-something but that was a few years ago and everything's going up. The only thing I wouldn't like about the one you've seen is that the grass box goes on the front. I prefer the box on the back under the handles, but that's purely a personal preference because my grass areas are small and I can get nearer the edges without the box bumping into the plants in my borders.
You'll definitely need something else to trim right up to the fence, particularly in the corners - either a strimmer or some kind of shears. I find I get a tidier finish with one-handed shears but it's a hands-and-knees job - again personal preference. Long-handled shears that you use standing up is another option but I don't get on with them (partly because the handles are always too long for me).
Thanks @JennyJ some good points there. I guess a box at the rear would maybe result in the same issue when coming tight the opposite direction - in which case I might have to give up on the idea of nice lawn stripes?
If you create a space using a small strip of edging right round - brick, timber, concrete or whatever suits your budget, that makes doing the edges easier, regardless of the method. Re your stripes - if you do one circuit right round the perimeter, that then gives you the turning space
It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
So I purchased the Spear & Jackson 40cm manual push mower from Argos. It was a good price and had good reviews. Unfortunately it's highest setting 4.2cm isn't very high at all! It really struggled to cut the the grass which after 3-4 weeks, turns out was about 12-15cm at points with plenty seed heads ! So I abandoned that idea for the moment.
Borrowed a family members Bosch Rotak 43 electric. I bought a replacement blade from B&Q and fitted it. Again however, it's highest setting #7 (cm) is actually pretty short - certainly in comparison to the length of grass !
I think it looks reasonably good per the pic after its cut, all things considered, but I'm really concerned that it was a drastic cut even at the highest setting of 7cm and worried the grass will suffer badly by shock?
Not sure if this is realistic or silly, but they always say 1/3 off only or maybe even less after turfing?
I'm currently treating it to some water to apologize and to try limit any potential damage.
I have consulted the lawn oracle in this house and according to him the best time to give it the first cut is when it's about 7cms long and you only want to "tip" it by no more than a quarter. You need to keep the height to around 6 cms high for at least the first 6 months unless you're aiming for bowling green quality with very fine fescues. The Rotak's height is better than the Spear and Jackson one, so you're probably better off sticking with that for the time being. The watering plus the warm weather should certainly encourage the growth.
Thanks @anniD that's really useful feedback, please pass on my thanks to the Oracle! I just found it tricky to balance allowing enough time for the turf to knit and cutting due to rapid growth. It's only been 3 1/2 weeks and it got to 12-15cm
I'm defo happy with 6-7cm, I expected that to be quite long given its at the top of the cutting scale, but in reality it's reasonably short! The Rotak is fab, very old but with a new blade you would never know, built in roller too.
Might be scope to drill an additional hole in the S&J bracket to give it an additional height option boost.
Soft sinking sand layer? 5 Weeks down and I couldn't ask for much more in-terms of appearance - it looks plush, healthy and I enjoy tending (obsessing) over it. Thanks for the reassurance and helpful responses.
There's definitely a general sinking underfoot, maybe around 3-5cm. Pretty sure this may be the result of a generous top layer of sand that was smoothed down but not compacted when it was laid.
Should I shuffle around to compact the lawn, or perhaps hire a roller to do the job a little better? Or do I leave it be to let it mature and consider that further down the line?
I'm not sure if these things are best done whilst the lawn is pliable and establishing or equally achievable and best left for further down the line.
Posts
Meadow grass loves regular watering and feed. supply that and it will flourish. Not a lot you can do about it apart from manage it, meadow grass has very shallow roots so will become dry and hungry fairly quickly and that is how you manage it, some chemicals are available but they will be eye watering to you ( £400 to 500 a litre )
Meadow grass reproduces by seed and this is from a baby seedling and give it 8 to 10 weeks will seed, the seed will also lay dormant for many years as well.
All grass species have different requirements on the amount of feed they need Fescue will grow with next to nothing, and very little water as well. Rye can take a lot more feed, but this does depend on how well your soil fauna is.
- I guess I'll also need a strimmer as not sure I'll be able to get tight to the ends for clean lines?
As always I appreciate and value your advice.Re your stripes - if you do one circuit right round the perimeter, that then gives you the turning space
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
So I purchased the Spear & Jackson 40cm manual push mower from Argos. It was a good price and had good reviews. Unfortunately it's highest setting 4.2cm isn't very high at all! It really struggled to cut the the grass which after 3-4 weeks, turns out was about 12-15cm at points with plenty seed heads
Borrowed a family members Bosch Rotak 43 electric. I bought a replacement blade from B&Q and fitted it. Again however, it's highest setting #7 (cm) is actually pretty short - certainly in comparison to the length of grass
I think it looks reasonably good per the pic after its cut, all things considered, but I'm really concerned that it was a drastic cut even at the highest setting of 7cm and worried the grass will suffer badly by shock?
Not sure if this is realistic or silly, but they always say 1/3 off only or maybe even less after turfing?
I'm currently treating it to some water to apologize and to try limit any potential damage.
FYI @AnniD@jennyJ @mrmow @fairygirl
You need to keep the height to around 6 cms high for at least the first 6 months unless you're aiming for bowling green quality with very fine fescues.
The Rotak's height is better than the Spear and Jackson one, so you're probably better off sticking with that for the time being. The watering plus the warm weather should certainly encourage the growth.
Hopefully others can confirm (or disagree !).
I'm defo happy with 6-7cm, I expected that to be quite long given its at the top of the cutting scale, but in reality it's reasonably short! The Rotak is fab, very old but with a new blade you would never know, built in roller too.
Might be scope to drill an additional hole in the S&J bracket to give it an additional height option boost.
There's definitely a general sinking underfoot, maybe around 3-5cm. Pretty sure this may be the result of a generous top layer of sand that was smoothed down but not compacted when it was laid.
- Should I shuffle around to compact the lawn, or perhaps hire a roller to do the job a little better? Or do I leave it be to let it mature and consider that further down the line?
I'm not sure if these things are best done whilst the lawn is pliable and establishing or equally achievable and best left for further down the line.