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Staking a Rowan tree

Is it a good idea to tie/stake a rowan tree like this? It is getting a lot of abuse from the wind & i dont want to lose it or for it to snap in half

Posts

  • PlantmindedPlantminded Posts: 3,580
    There's a video on this GW link showing how to stake a tree.  I'm not sure that this technique would work with your tree though as it really is quite thin at this stage.  I'd suggest that you move the top tie to about two inches below the top of the existing stake and nail the tie into the stake, as shown in the video.  There should then be less risk of wind damage.  Try to use same method in the video of binding the trunk to the stake to create a "buffer", if you can.

    Staking a Tree (Video) - BBC Gardeners World Magazine
    Wirral. Sandy, free draining soil.


  • Balgay.HillBalgay.Hill Posts: 1,089
    edited May 2022
    If it was mine, i would cut the tree back to just above that bottom branch and train a new leader, as i don't think it will ever stand up on its own as it is.  Or follow the advice from Plantminded if you don't want to cut it back. It looks like it was grown in shade and stretched for the sun. Is that a milk carton it is growing out of?
    Sunny Dundee
  • Sam76Sam76 Posts: 151
    Thanks. It was planted in full sun last year and has doubled in height. The milk carton is cut to act as protection for the base of the tree from mulch/strimmer. It stands ok on its own, just is blown about alot in the wind.
  • Balgay.HillBalgay.Hill Posts: 1,089
    If it was a whip, you could probably have planted it without a stake, and the trunk might have thickened up a bit.
    Sunny Dundee
  • FairygirlFairygirl Posts: 55,117
    In an exposed site, an angled stake - into the face of the prevailing wind is enough. If you want, you can have one facing the other way too. I expect that's what's shown in the link @Plantminded has given. 
    Or, you can do the technique used for planting slightly more mature specimens in open sites and hillsides- a frame shaped like an H. and tied in correctly with a proper tree tie. 
    That's something that you need to address anyway. That tie will do more harm than good if left like that. The tie [a proper one] needs to be attached tightly to the stake, and then more loosely round the trunk itself, and it needs monitored to make sure it doesn't compromise the trunk as it grows  :)
    Either way, that holds the root system in place to establish it, and allows the top to move and strengthen up naturally. It won't be instant though. A tree of that kind of maturity - ie very young, will take years to be substantial.
    I shifted one last year which  was a gift from the birds, and had been in situ behind the shed for about 5 years. It's fine, and is producing flowers this year, but the trunk diameter is still only around an inch or so. 

    They aren't trees which grow with perfect straight trunks most of the time either.  :)
    It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....



    I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
  • punkdocpunkdoc Posts: 15,039
    Agree with @Fairygirl

    The ties you have will damage the tree.
    If it were mine, I would have an H shaped support and use proper tree ties.
    How can you lie there and think of England
    When you don't even know who's in the team

    S.Yorkshire/Derbyshire border
  • FairygirlFairygirl Posts: 55,117
    I agree @punkdoc. In really exposed sites, 2 of those H frames are used, one each side of the trunk according to the winds, and a tie on the trunk for each frame. 
    There's some trees not far from me [ not rowans] which have been beautifully staked with H frames. It's very open from there across to the moors [and the famous windfarm] and the trees are spot on. 
    It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....



    I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
  • PlantmindedPlantminded Posts: 3,580
    I don't think that the usual method of staking at ground level, at an angle to the wind would work in this case, as said earlier.  The tree is too tall, narrow and flexible.  I'd agree that an H shaped support would be the best method though, as mentioned above by @Fairygirl and @punkdoc.  
    Wirral. Sandy, free draining soil.


  • Sam76Sam76 Posts: 151
    That is excellent guys- I will use an H frame. Thanks to all
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