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Help me save my new tree

Planted a Rowan Tree Vilmorinii last summer. Unfortunately it was over watered and the leaves all dropped off it late summer. However there were lots of healthy new buds by the Autumn.
Unfortunately it has failed to break bud and leaf up. When I scratch the bark it is green underneath so not dead.
I have very heavy clay and I think the drainage may unfortunately be particularly bad where I planted it.
Do I dig it up to a better draining spot or pop it in a large pot to recover?
Do I dig it up to a better draining spot or pop it in a large pot to recover?
Or is all hope lost and it won’t recover 🥹
Many thanks 

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Re-plant it, with the soil well prepared. Keep watering every 3-4 days and water generously. If nothing by June/July, it's dead.
I think your tree had been under watered. Obviously, the soil condition doesn't help, but clay soils in summer can also cause extreme cracking which also causes the roots to dry up, so try to create a condition where the roots can grow into. Once they've established 2-3 years down the line, the tree can deal with clay base soils.
Rowans cope with loads of water, but if they're sitting in waterlogged soil, that's entirely different. The native ones cope better - the cultivated varieties are less tolerant. As @Borderline says - it's more likely to have been winter conditions that would have been the problem, rather than last summer. Dropping foliage early is a sign of stress, and that's usually lack of water.
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
Sorbus vilmorinii|Vilmorin's rowan/RHS Gardening
My sister also has one - it's been in situ for around thirty years. She's across the other side of Scotland, but also has clay soil.
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
I grow both Sorbus vilmorinii and Sorbus aucuparia on free draining sandy soil in identical situations. S. vilmorinii is definitely a more delicate tree, starting later in the year to leaf, flower and set fruit.
RHS guidelines are widely accepted as accurate. Although they don't include clay as a recommended soil for this tree, that doesn't mean that this variety won't grow in clay - it just grows better in free draining soil.
I'm sure that the tree would have been better able to cope in improved clay soil. Starting the tree off in very heavy clay and overwatering it would have hampered its establishment for the reasons previously stated.
You know I added bags of John Innes compost and a fair bit of grit but yous are right the conditions are just too wet for it. I’m going to shortly get it in a different spot and hopefully it will survive as it’s a beautiful tree.
The fact that you have plenty of other shrubs/plants doing well there though, suggests the opposite. Last year was ridiculously dry up here, and stress caused by dryer soil causes early leaf drop, which is what you described. Highly unlikely that the border is waterlogged, looking at the other plants you have. I agree with what @Borderline said earlier. The soil here rarely cracks though, whether it's been improved or not, but there may have been a few instances last summer. The vast majority of Scotland is on clay. Especially right across the central belt. I wouldn't have had a clue about improving soil when I started gardening seriously. My sister certainly didn't. She dug holes and plonked stuff in.
Amelanchier will be fine though - any of them.
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...