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Best fungicides for blight on tomatoes

shahriardadkhahshahriardadkhah Posts: 1
in Problem solving
Hello,

I am new to the forum and an avid fledgling gardener. Over the past couple years I have been a bit hands off when blight comes and take away my precious crops. This year I have decided to invest in a pump spray and begin some preventative measures for blights and other diseases. I have heard hydrogen peroxide and baking soda works and also copper. What works best for the people here and what other preventative measures can we take for blight, especially late blight?

Many thanks.

Posts

  • FireFire Posts: 19,096
    It's much bettter to choose a  cultivar that is more blight resistant and use no spray at all. Grow in a greenhouse if you can, as this will reduce the risk too.
  • Mr. Vine EyeMr. Vine Eye Posts: 2,394
    I don’t think you can really fight blight. It’s all about prevention. Don’t plant in the same space that you’ve had blight previously, shelter from rain - ideally grow them inside.

    We put our tomatoes outside last year and won’t make that mistake again!
    East Yorkshire
  • Pete.8Pete.8 Posts: 11,340
    I'm afraid there are no fungicides available to treat blight.
    Some info from the RHS if you want to know more-
    https://www.rhs.org.uk/disease/tomato-blight


    Billericay - Essex

    Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit.
    Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.
  • FairygirlFairygirl Posts: 55,117
    As @Mr. Vine Eye and @Pete.8 both say, there isn't really anything you can do other than take preventative measures. Growing undercover is the best solution, but isn't always feasible for many people unfortunately. 

    It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....



    I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
  • DovefromaboveDovefromabove Posts: 88,147
    edited April 2022
    I grow my tomatoes outside … most years they’re fine and I get a good crop … last year I grew varieties not known to have any blight resistance and I paid for it. We lost the lot. 

    We’re going for blight resistant varieties this year, will be removing lower leaves once the first truss has set, and crossing our fingers … all part of the thrills and spills of gardening. 😀 

    Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.





  • Allotment BoyAllotment Boy Posts: 6,774
    There are no fungicides approved for amateurs,  to use on food crops anymore. 
    AB Still learning

  • ObelixxObelixx Posts: 30,090
    Here in France a "tea" made form crushed and macerated stems of horsetail (prêle) is a widely used fungicide.  It's reputed to help with peach leaf curl, tomato blight, mildew and rusts.  It is accepted as organic.

    Pick a kilo of horsetail and immerse in a plastic bucket - not metal - covering it with 9 litres of water which needs to be low in calcium so if you have hard tap water, use rain water.

    Cover and leave for 2 weeks, stirring occasionally.  It's ready when the water turns black and all the horsetail is just gunk at the bottom.   Strain in to a clean container then dilute, 1 part solution to 9 parts water and use as a spray.


    Vendée - 20kms from Atlantic coast.
    "The price good men (and women) pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men (and women)."
    Plato
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