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Chitalpa tree

GarweedGarweed Posts: 17
in Plants
We moved into a house last year with a Chitalpa tree, which over the years had evidently been increasingly leaning, to the extent that, impaled against a low brick wall, it had cut a small wedge out of itself while splitting a small fissure in the wall.

I decided to lift it away from the wall using an acrow, which can remain permanent until we find a more decorative solution. So far I've done no more than ease it away from the wall (a couple of degrees at most) but I wonder if anyone could advise on the extent to which a tree like this will put up with being pushed against its current natural lean (64 deg)?  Is this something that can be done gradually and increasingly over the years to improve the correction, say 2 or 3 degrees per year or even more?
 
Many thanks for any ideas.
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  • thevictorianthevictorian Posts: 1,279
    I think the problem with leaning trees is that if they have been that way for a long time you are always fighting their roots which will have anchored the tree in that position. You might be able to move it a little at a time but the longer it remains in the leant position the stronger the roots will have developed to support it that way. If you can move and support it I don't think you really strain the tree anymore from doing it in one shot.
    Can you add a picture from further back so we can see the shape of the tree and the situation. Is there an obvious reason why the tree is leaning, like into the light? 
  • GarweedGarweed Posts: 17
    Many thanks for your reply.  The tree is actually leaning to the north, so I don't think it's because of lack of light.  It's getting dark here now so will take a photo from further back tomorrow.
  • GarweedGarweed Posts: 17
    Some more pictures of the Chitalpa being held  by the acrow... 
    The part of the trunk behind the wall is a continuation of what you see above the wall, i.e 60 Deg to the horizontal. 
    Just wondering what would be the impact on the root system of pushing the acrow significantly further, particularly as some roots are already above ground (see pic).
  • DovefromaboveDovefromabove Posts: 88,147
    edited January 2022
    I've seen a similar problem solved by taking a semi-circle out of the wall .... done by a good bricklayer  who was able to continue the bond and top course of the brickwork it was very decorative.

    Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.





  • thevictorianthevictorian Posts: 1,279
    I'd be tempted to see how much you can easily straighten it. If it moves easily you are unlikely to cause any damage to the roots because they are flexible. If you have to force it then you risk root damage. I quite like trees with props as it adds character but if you want it straight you have to take a bit of a risk. Normally a mature tree like that will take some abuse because it has a very established root network but on the flips ide these will anchor it well in place.
    If you are happy with a slight lean continuing your plan of slowly adjusting it back will help but if you are worried that it might topple over, then removing that lower branch over your brick work paving will take a fair amount of weight out of it. It will mean you still have the leaning trunk but you can prune any wayward growth that follows to keep a decent shape. 
  • GarweedGarweed Posts: 17
    Many thanks for your thoughts. There's quite a bit to chew over there, but your advice has given us more confidence to try bringing the tree to a better shape/position in the garden.
  • Cambridgerose12Cambridgerose12 Posts: 1,134
    The trunk will probably shift but only slowly. Perhaps every six months, give the acrow a bit more length, without forcing it. Over time you probably will make a difference, though not very much. Plant material remains flexible until it is heavily impregnated with lignin, and a fairly mature trunk like this will not move far. Unless there is rot around the area of bark damage I wouldn't worry too much about it just now. Trunks can engulf inert structures like rocks, over time.

    I also don't think you need to worry too much about the roots. Even if you over-extended the acrow, the damage would more likely be to the trunk than the roots. Trees move around a fair bit in wind, for example, so the old advice of staking things has now been shown to weaken rather than strengthen the roots. 
  • GarweedGarweed Posts: 17
    Many thanks for the additional info. In terms of the angular shift the tree may be safely subjected to, would 5 degrees every 6 months be too stressful bearing in mind it's currently leaning at 66 degrees? 
    Mindful of your advice about the negative aspects of staking, will it be ok to remove the acrow in the hope that the tree can support itself at its new angle (keeping the acrow in place for 6 months after the final adjustment)?
  • BobTheGardenerBobTheGardener Posts: 11,385
    edited January 2022
    Zooming-in to your 2nd photo, I can see what looks like a classic case of 'girdling roots', which are cutting-in to the original bark.  Because of that, I'm not sure how long it may have left:

    Have a look here:

    A trowel in the hand is worth a thousand lost under a bush.
  • GarweedGarweed Posts: 17
    Thanks for this, Bob.  I'm wondering if the girdling roots might be the reason why the trunk is looking so out of sorts...(see latest pic) and also if it's even worth calling out an arborist :( By the way in the pic you referenced, there is 1 very thin root and one thicker (both clearly girdling). There are 2 around 4" in diameter- would you think these roots are also girdling?
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