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Leylandi Hedge Removal

luke.harrison7luke.harrison7 Posts: 9
in Problem solving
Hi all - hoping for some help.

Got a leylandi hedge in front garden - which I don't like and going to remove. Planning on cutting to base and leaving roots to rot down - don't want to dig them out as it's close to a retaining wall. Was then going to add a load of soil conditioner as will probably be depleted of nutrients, and then add some bare root plants - something like this:


Wanting a bit of privacy but also something good for wildlife.

Appreciate any thoughts on if this is a good plan or anything I might have missed. Planning on doing in Feb.

Thanks in advance

Luke

Posts

  • FairygirlFairygirl Posts: 55,117
    Unless there's sufficient room to actually plant in between [which is unlikely] I'd take the stumps out. 
    If you remove the main branches, and cut to around four feet, it gives you a lever for removing. Conifers are quite shallow rooted. 
    It makes establishment  of the new whips much easier too. The site could be very dry with that wall behind it, so prep the area well first to give them the best start.
    Just be aware that if you have blackthorn in the hedge mix [I haven't looked but it's common ] it suckers like mad and will be in your grass in future years   :)
    It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....



    I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
  • AnniDAnniD Posts: 12,585
    I would advise getting the stumps out if you possibly can. It may take a lot of effort (understatement), but is definitely the best thing to do. Depending on your age and fitness you may be able to lever them out with a mattock, there are various videos on YouTube showing how it's done.
    I know it's a PITA but it will pay dividends in the long run.
    I found an old thread with a similar query, the answers may help.
    https://forum.gardenersworld.com/discussion/4667/replanting-between-leylandii-stumps/p1

    Good luck, looking forward to seeing the during and after photos  :)
  • Hostafan1Hostafan1 Posts: 34,889
    " if you fail to prepare: you should prepare to fail " 
    Some "short cuts" just don't work.
    Devon.
  • luke.harrison7luke.harrison7 Posts: 9
    Thanks for the replies - will try and get the stumps out in that case.

    Hedge that i was looking at is - meant to be good balance between nature friendly and all year round cover
    25% Quickthorn (Hawthorn, May) – Crataegus Monogyna
    25% Green Beech – Fagus Sylvatica
    25% Hornbeam – Carpinus Betulus

    plus 25% selected from the following plants
    Blackthorn (Sloe) – Prunus Spinosa, Common Alder – Alnus glutinosa, Bird Cherry – Prunus padus, Hazel – Corylus avellana, Sweet Briar Rose – Rosa rubiginosa, Common Dogwood – Cornus Sanguinea, Field Maple – Acer Campestre, Guelder Rose – Viburnum Opulus, Spindle – Euonymus Europaeus, Dog Rose – Rosa Canina, Wild Crabapple – Malus Sylvestris
  • FairygirlFairygirl Posts: 55,117
    The beech and hornbeam will certainly give you winter cover, as they retain their foliage. The rest won't, apart from the odd bit in mild winters. It will only offer a  framework  :)

    The only other alternative to taking out the leyland, is to build up the bed. I see from one of your pix that there's already wall, but there's a bit of picket type fence. As you're not replacing the hedge with an evergreen one, a lot of that fence will be visible, and it's not the bonniest thing on earth  ;)
    Depending on your funds, and how good you are at DIY [or if you have friends who are] you could remove the fence, build a blockwork wall and render it, to around the height of that fence, or you could use something like sleepers. That will contain the area.
    You'd have the expense of filling it [topsoil etc] but it would give you more room and depth for putting in the new whips without removing the existing stumps.  :)
    It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....



    I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
  • luke.harrison7luke.harrison7 Posts: 9
    That's a good idea. Normally you can't see that fence but we just cut back a lot of fuschia from in front of it that had gone a bit crazy. I'll have a go at getting rid of the stumps and see what happens!
  • PalustrisPalustris Posts: 4,307
    If you are worried about the wall and the roots, then go along between the wall and the stumps and cut the root below ground level. We did that to avoid damaging our neighbours drive when we removed the Lawson hedge here.
  • ontopofthehillontopofthehill Posts: 76
    We removed approx 50m of leylandii which was 10m high. Arborist advised to leave stumps in situ and plant slightly in front which we did. I'd have loved to get rid of them but it wasn't an option for multiple reasons. It was fine cause it's a big garden but if you're a bit more limited everyone else is right, try get them out if you can. Our hedge is slowly coming along two years later but some bits are better than others and I'm sure the stumps don't help. On upside, our soil wasn't nearly so wrecked as we feared so hey, swings and roundabouts. Try improve it as much as you can before you plant though, obviously.
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