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Climbing Rose Cleanup

VoyagerxpVoyagerxp Posts: 651
in Plants
Hi guys this is my first climbing rose ive grown up an arch, David Austin James Galway and its grown really well but as its been growing i've just tied the canes in. Alot of the canes are crossing so now the rose season is coming to an end i'm wondering if its ok to untie all the canes and tie in the strong canes and cut away the smaller and weak ones now.



Also while i'm here can you name this plant please.


Posts

  • Lizzie27Lizzie27 Posts: 12,494
    Hi @Voyagerxp, as it's a young plant, for now I would just prune those long shoots off at the top of the arch before the gales arrive. Once the leaves have dropped off and the rose has gone dormant (late Dec to early March) and you can see what you are doing more clearly, then you could prune the new shoots more precisely and tie in the new canes. I'm no expert though and hopefully more experienced rose growers will advise further.

    Your second plant looks like a fern?
    North East Somerset - Clay soil over limestone
  • Silver surferSilver surfer Posts: 4,719
    edited October 2021
    2. Looks like Asplenium scolopendrium Crispum Group.


    one such as....eg...

    Asplenium scolopendrium ‘Crispum Bolton’s Nobile’


    https://www.gardenersworld.com/plants/asplenium-scolopendrium-crispum-boltons-nobile/

    Or eg..
    Asplenium scolopendruim crispum Moly.

    https://www.deeproot.co.uk/pbo/plantdetail.php?plantname=Asplenium+scolopendrium+6I927Crispum+Moly6I927

    There are a few .
    Perthshire. SCOTLAND .
  • NollieNollie Posts: 7,529
    Ar you au fait with the difference between main canes (the thicker climbing stems that come from the base) and the flowering laterals that shoot off from the main canes, voyager?

    The basic idea is to tie in the main canes but don’t prune them as these form the main climbing structure. The laterals should be pruned back to about 4-6” from the main cane - leaving these stubs is important as they are what produce the flowers next year. So yes, prune back those long laterals waving above the arch, just not right to the bone! 

    It’s a good time of year to try and train the main canes where you want them as they will ripen and harden up over winter and be more difficult to bend to your will then. That main cane on the right intruding into the centre of the arch could be persuaded back against the arch now. if it’s already too stiff, you could gently bend it towards it’s destination, tie it in and gradually move it a bit further in over time. Some of it’s laterals look pretty sturdy so you have a choice there - prune them all back to 4-6” , or you could select a couple of the strong ones and treat them like main canes by tying them in to the side of the arch. 
    Mountainous Northern Catalunya, Spain. Hot summers, cold winters.
  • WoodgreenWoodgreen Posts: 1,273
    I think the fern is more likely to be Asplenium scolopendrium  'Angustifolium'. The fronds look too narrow to be 'Bolton's Nobile' or 'Moly'.
    I grow 'Angustifolium' and 'Bolton's Nobile' and there is a marked difference in the colour and width of the fronds.
  • Silver surferSilver surfer Posts: 4,719
    Woodgreen said:
    I think the fern is more likely to be Asplenium scolopendrium  'Angustifolium'. The fronds look too narrow to be 'Bolton's Nobile' or 'Moly'.
    I grow 'Angustifolium' and 'Bolton's Nobile' and there is a marked difference in the colour and width of the fronds.
    Looks good.
    Perthshire. SCOTLAND .
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