@rolanda.woo - as @fairygirl has said, there is a basic rule in gardening of "Right plant, right place". What that means is, it's no good trying to grow a bog plant in a dry gravel garden or an acid loving azalea on chalky soil or a shade-loving fern in a sunny spot. They just won't thrive. We all have to compromise on the plants we choose for different spots in the garden.
Are you sure that the plants you've chosen are suitable for where you're going to plant them? If not then, at best, you will be forever disappointed with how they perform and, at worst, they'll die. They might be happier in a different spot in your garden.
If you're unsure about any of them you can tell us what they are and we might be able to give you some guidance.
I think we've all grown plants in less than ideal spots and sometimes you get away with it. However, I know there is no way I can ever grow dianthus or alpines in my regular borders - my soil is far too heavy and they just rot. I have to grow them in pots or specially prepared areas.
We might be able to help you decide whether or not you should be ok to plant in your chosen spot. Which plants were scorched by the afternoon sun? That might have been because they were babies or it could be that you really need to look at choosing another spot.
You have a pretty plot there with lots of potential. It would be lovely to see how you develop it.
Heaven is ... sitting in the garden with a G&T and a cat while watching the sun go down
You could also arrange things to create some shade. If as someone suggested you dispensed with the grass, you could have curved or zigzag borders that could have a sunnier and a shadier side, giving you more opportunity to put plants in a place where they would be happy and thrive. It also makes your garden feel bigger and look much more interesting
Just to say "thank you", everyone! I will reply later with more details.
But yes, I've been doing careful plannings as the best as I could. I've planted 20-30ish odd plants since spring/summer, some from bulbs. So far they 97% of them survived and some thrived. So I think my method (lots of research upfront on each plant, except when I got lured buying from local garden centre without doing upfront research) so far has worked ok.
It's a test though, as I haven't been through a whole year cycle. So still to see if these could come back to life and thrive next summer.
My garden is very difficult to plan for. I realised it even more so when lately I took notes of the autumn sunlight of each area the first time. The garden is heavily shaded by tall trees/shrubs of all sides of my neighbours. Since the gardens in our area are so narrow, when there's a tall tree in one garden, the light in the gardens of next two houses would get affected. On the left hand side, there's barely any sunlight at this time of the year already, as the sun just isn't high enough to come across the trees/shrubs. On the right hand side of the garden, the sunlight has been reduced from 4-6 hours to 2 hours or so, again because of trees on the back and on the right (there's a chestnut tree probably about 25-30 meters high in the garden 3 doors to mine). So basically, I have a garden which bakes plants in summer but struggle to provide direct sunlight in autumn. I have yet gone into winter to take note of the light changing...
That's probably my biggest challenge. When plants goes dormant, it probably matters less (I'm hoping). But still for evergreens, it's difficult to gauge areas like these with distinct sunlight exposure between seasons suit what kind of plants.
Your soil type will have a bearing as well. I think we're all in the same boat,if only the garden was a bit bigger, wider, more sun,less sun, more rain,less rain,it's all a juggling act. Oh,these Garden Centers and their luring power!!!
The thing to remember is - when the info for a plant says 'full sun' that means around 5 to 7 hours in summer. Autumn and winter really don't matter. That's possibly where you're going wrong and making life more difficult for yourself than it needs to be.
It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
I would say, reconsider it. 4-5 hours of sun is barely enough for sun-loving plants. The garden is already shady. Many plants can tolerate 5-6 hours of sun and many actually need more to be happy. If you want to lightly shade some parts of the garden for a part of the year only, go for either: 1. Tall growing perennials or grasses. These would be small in winter/spring and tall in summer/autumn. 2. An obelisk or a similar structure with a rose or a clematis. A rose would need 6+ hours of sun, maybe 5+, but not less. Clematis could do with less but you need to choose a variety suitable for partial shade. Because the garden is narrow, it would be better not to do borders on the left and right. You could do perpendicular borders or you could do sweeping curves, zigzagging from one side to the other. Both these solutions could look good with an arch - again with roses or clematis. A well-placed arch could provide the partial shade you want. But some additional hard landscaping (terracing) may be needed to make it perfect.
You could also arrange things to create some shade. If as someone suggested you dispensed with the grass, you could have curved or zigzag borders that could have a sunnier and a shadier side, giving you more opportunity to put plants in a place where they would be happy and thrive. It also makes your garden feel bigger and look much more interesting
I did read somewhere about landscaping. Zigzig shape makes the space feel bigger/wider. I kinda planned it in my head to do the border of the beds accordingly. But just didn't get the chance - too many things in one go at the moment. With a under 3 yo being around (a day-2.5 hrs when in nursery) and clubs for a 9 yo, I need more time.
About the grass, my husband wants to keep the grass so that kids could run across back-and-forth freely... (My 9 yo still roars running crazily across the garden... )
Thanks for the suggestion though...maybe when the 9 yo turns 18 yo...
The thing to remember is - when the info for a plant says 'full sun' that means around 5 to 7 hours in summer. Autumn and winter really don't matter. That's possibly where you're going wrong and making life more difficult for yourself than it needs to be.
Good to know that, @Fairygirl. I thought it might be the case for deciduous plants. Is it the same case for evergreens? Do bulbs need to be planted at a sunny spot at this time of the year?
Your soil type will have a bearing as well. I think we're all in the same boat,if only the garden was a bit bigger, wider, more sun,less sun, more rain,less rain,it's all a juggling act. Oh,these Garden Centers and their luring power!!!
The soil type thing is a bit of mystery. I feel it's clay like typical London soil as people always say. But my neighbour lady (who has a whole garden of plants) seems to be very confident it's not clay type...
I've sort of made up my mind to treat it as clay soil and intend to mix with sand/grit depending on the need of the plant.
I would say, reconsider it. 4-5 hours of sun is barely enough for sun-loving plants. The garden is already shady. Many plants can tolerate 5-6 hours of sun and many actually need more to be happy. If you want to lightly shade some parts of the garden for a part of the year only, go for either: 1. Tall growing perennials or grasses. These would be small in winter/spring and tall in summer/autumn. 2. An obelisk or a similar structure with a rose or a clematis. A rose would need 6+ hours of sun, maybe 5+, but not less. Clematis could do with less but you need to choose a variety suitable for partial shade. Because the garden is narrow, it would be better not to do borders on the left and right. You could do perpendicular borders or you could do sweeping curves, zigzagging from one side to the other. Both these solutions could look good with an arch - again with roses or clematis. A well-placed arch could provide the partial shade you want. But some additional hard landscaping (terracing) may be needed to make it perfect.
Thank you for the tips, @edhelka! Yes, I'd have to choose mostly those plants for partial sun/shade + some fairly shady plants. I have only a few plants need full sun. But the afternoon full sun is a problem for too many plants. Hence this post.
Thanks for the shape of the border. Terracing is a very interesting idea... The garden is on a slope going upwards towards the back. We've already got decking stairs in place which need to be replace very soon. Maybe worth considering... But that would be a big job. Anything like bricks or rocks would have to hire someone to do, involving skip and etc... Plus, I have hard time to decide what material garden border shall use.
Posts
Are you sure that the plants you've chosen are suitable for where you're going to plant them? If not then, at best, you will be forever disappointed with how they perform and, at worst, they'll die. They might be happier in a different spot in your garden.
If you're unsure about any of them you can tell us what they are and we might be able to give you some guidance.
I think we've all grown plants in less than ideal spots and sometimes you get away with it. However, I know there is no way I can ever grow dianthus or alpines in my regular borders - my soil is far too heavy and they just rot. I have to grow them in pots or specially prepared areas.
We might be able to help you decide whether or not you should be ok to plant in your chosen spot. Which plants were scorched by the afternoon sun? That might have been because they were babies or it could be that you really need to look at choosing another spot.
You have a pretty plot there with lots of potential. It would be lovely to see how you develop it.
But yes, I've been doing careful plannings as the best as I could. I've planted 20-30ish odd plants since spring/summer, some from bulbs. So far they 97% of them survived and some thrived. So I think my method (lots of research upfront on each plant, except when I got lured buying from local garden centre without doing upfront research) so far has worked ok.
It's a test though, as I haven't been through a whole year cycle. So still to see if these could come back to life and thrive next summer.
My garden is very difficult to plan for. I realised it even more so when lately I took notes of the autumn sunlight of each area the first time. The garden is heavily shaded by tall trees/shrubs of all sides of my neighbours. Since the gardens in our area are so narrow, when there's a tall tree in one garden, the light in the gardens of next two houses would get affected. On the left hand side, there's barely any sunlight at this time of the year already, as the sun just isn't high enough to come across the trees/shrubs. On the right hand side of the garden, the sunlight has been reduced from 4-6 hours to 2 hours or so, again because of trees on the back and on the right (there's a chestnut tree probably about 25-30 meters high in the garden 3 doors to mine). So basically, I have a garden which bakes plants in summer but struggle to provide direct sunlight in autumn. I have yet gone into winter to take note of the light changing...
That's probably my biggest challenge. When plants goes dormant, it probably matters less (I'm hoping). But still for evergreens, it's difficult to gauge areas like these with distinct sunlight exposure between seasons suit what kind of plants.
That's possibly where you're going wrong and making life more difficult for yourself than it needs to be.
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
If you want to lightly shade some parts of the garden for a part of the year only, go for either:
1. Tall growing perennials or grasses. These would be small in winter/spring and tall in summer/autumn.
2. An obelisk or a similar structure with a rose or a clematis. A rose would need 6+ hours of sun, maybe 5+, but not less. Clematis could do with less but you need to choose a variety suitable for partial shade.
Because the garden is narrow, it would be better not to do borders on the left and right. You could do perpendicular borders or you could do sweeping curves, zigzagging from one side to the other. Both these solutions could look good with an arch - again with roses or clematis. A well-placed arch could provide the partial shade you want. But some additional hard landscaping (terracing) may be needed to make it perfect.
About the grass, my husband wants to keep the grass so that kids could run across back-and-forth freely... (My 9 yo still roars running crazily across the garden...
Thanks for the suggestion though...maybe when the 9 yo turns 18 yo...
I've sort of made up my mind to treat it as clay soil and intend to mix with sand/grit depending on the need of the plant.
Thank you for the tips, @edhelka! Yes, I'd have to choose mostly those plants for partial sun/shade + some fairly shady plants. I have only a few plants need full sun. But the afternoon full sun is a problem for too many plants. Hence this post.
Thanks for the shape of the border. Terracing is a very interesting idea... The garden is on a slope going upwards towards the back. We've already got decking stairs in place which need to be replace very soon. Maybe worth considering... But that would be a big job. Anything like bricks or rocks would have to hire someone to do, involving skip and etc... Plus, I have hard time to decide what material garden border shall use.