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Rose moved- wilted

TSMTSM Posts: 41
Hi, I moved a floribunda after flowering a couple of weeks ago, kept it well watered BUT its wilted and still wilted... will it recover... i got down deep and got most roots out. its so beautiful i really hope so
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  • JennyJJennyJ Posts: 10,576
    It'll be winding down for the winter now, so I think it's a case of wait and see what it does in the spring. Did you prune it at all when you moved it? That's often a good idea, so there's less green growth for it to support.
    Doncaster, South Yorkshire. Soil type: sandy, well-drained
  • TSMTSM Posts: 41
    Hi No i didn't prune it, thought it was a little early ?il see what happens and report back thank you
  • Hi - as JennyJ says, I think the idea is that when a plant is moved, its roots are damaged/stressed, and so to reduce the demand on them from transpiration, you cut back the tops/leaves to give the roots a chance to re-establish. So in the normal run of things, this would not be the time to prune, but because you've moved it now, it would make sense. Obviously lots of watering needed...
  • TSMTSM Posts: 41
    thanks, il watch for spring :)
  • Jac19Jac19 Posts: 496
    edited September 2021
    This happened when I moved my roses from raised beds into the ground, too.  Particularly the newest shoots are supported by tiny newest hairline roots which always get torn and damaged.  So, the new shoots they were supporting always wilt.  It will take about 2 to 3 weeks for the rose to put new roots down in its new home.  When it does, it will send up new shoots off the stems.  

    Don't worry, it will take about 2 - 3 weeks, but your rose will recover for sure.  This happened to all 3 -- 2 floribundas and 1 grandiflora -- when I moved them.  All of them recovered fully and started sending new shoots up in 2 to 3 weeks.
  • punkdocpunkdoc Posts: 15,039
    2-3 weeks for new roots sounds rather quick to me, I wonder what our many Rose experts think.
    Having said that, I am sure the Rose will be fine, with TLC.
    How can you lie there and think of England
    When you don't even know who's in the team

    S.Yorkshire/Derbyshire border
  • ObelixxObelixx Posts: 30,090
    Better to have waited till it was less active - late October - so the roots aren't having to work as hard to support the top growth.  To reduce stress I suggest you prune each main stem back to a couple of pairs of leaves and no flowers or buds and water thoroughly until the autumn rains set in.

    Do not feed it now but do give it a good mulch of well-rotted manure or garden compost in November to help the roots along.
    Vendée - 20kms from Atlantic coast.
    "The price good men (and women) pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men (and women)."
    Plato
  • As @Jac19 says, it’s almost impossible not to damage some of the tiny hairlike roots when digging up a rose …. as these are the ones that take in the moisture the plant will suffer unless you reduce the plant’s demands for water.   

    Reducing the amount of foliage, as others have advised, will lessen the impact of the move and prevent damage to the plant which could be done by insufficient water reaching the stems. 

    The speed of production of new canes depends not only on the care given to the rose, but importantly also on the time of year. 

    I wouldn’t expect any new canes until next summer. 

    But as others have said, given the right care I think your rose will survive.  Reducing the top growth now will reduce the likelihood of any setback. 

    Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.





  • edited September 2021
    I've moved roses at the most inappropriate times and mine has always come back after looking like they were heading down the dying path.

    I had to move my Desdemona mid August because if I didn't it really was going to die due to its position and another rose swamping it.

    It was really hot and certainly not the best conditions for it to be moved but needs must.  I made sure I dug out the new planting while first so it was a quick as possie transfer, a bit of fungi too.

    Since then I've watered and fed and in time I saw some new shoots.

    As a bonus it's just produced some flowers, they are small but gorgeous.

    I am in the south east so it's still very warm during the day which probably makes a difference.

    I would say give it time.
  • Jac19Jac19 Posts: 496
    edited September 2021
    I wouldn't prune the older shoots because those have older roots feeding them in the main rootball.  Wait for the newer shoots that wilt worst to wilt and prune them a little because those are the ones it cannot handle.  I only had to prune the newest shoot after it wilted worst.
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