Also what helps is buying and releasing some earthworms into the ground. Put them on the ground and put a bit of lose compost or soil on them so that the birds don't eat them up right away. They dig through and down, depositing rich material behind them. And water and dead plant material then seep down through the holes they dig and enrich the soil. They carry plant material into the deep soil too. They will breed and make the soil more and more rich over time.
I wondered if that was the case I'd leave what you have there for the time being then. 2 months is no time at all for any shrubs [especially] to thrive, and all plants will just be getting their feet down and establishing. If the soil is poor, some plants will struggle to do well. Hydrangeas need to be well watered - especially as you have it in a sunny site. Always water down at the base, not overhead, and water really thoroughly - a full can every couple of days in hotter/drier spells. Once you're into autumn/winter conditions, you can stop doing that, and it will be dormant anyway. Some plants may not make it - new builds are notorious for having poor soil conditions, but you've done the right thing by adding a bit extra to the soil. Ideally, you'd spend as much on the prep of a new planting hole as you do on the plants. However, you can also help the soil structure by adding some mulch in the gaps - well rotted manure is ideal [you can get it bagged in garden centres] or just a general compost. That will work down and help, and it also helps retain moisture and suppress weeds. I'd lift the gladioli though - most aren't hardy, so unless you know which ones you have, it's probably safer. You'll need to overwinter them in a shed or porch or somewhere similar to keep them frost free. Just wait until they've died back.
The nearby pavement and drive will have footings. That affects plants and their root growth a lot - sometimes very negatively, so better to wait and see what's still there and thriving in spring, before spending a load of money. A close up of the Hebes will help determine if it's a reasonably tough variety. Many are less hardy than others too. The smaller the foliage generally speaking, the tougher they are, but they often succumb in cold wet conditions, and don't always respond well to pruning hard.
It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
I have a paving area and a section near a driveway. They have turned out to be good for my plants actually, as long as the water can seep down into them which I facilitate, because the soil areas underneath them are free of competing roots of plants and trees and rich and free areas that my plants can send roots into. It is detrimental if these areas had plants instead as they compete and the area gets too root logged.
There is no need to buy earthworms 😦 … mulch the bed with well-rotted farmyard manure or other organic matter … the worms will arrive when the conditions are right for them.
Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.
"Adding Earthworms to the garden to improve soil health – worms are an excellent addition to ‘Gardening The Natural Way’. Earthworms (also commonly known as Lobworms or Garden worms) will work and rejuvenate the soil’s health, condition and overall drainage (even burrowing tough clay soils) as lobworms work deeper in the soil than normal compost worms they burrow and drag surface matter into the depths including getting much needed oxygen into the soil, rejuvenating the soil naturally. "
Digging a hole into clay, putting in compost and planting into the compost is a mistake often made by inexperienced gardeners.
It can appear to work for a short while in the summer, but in the winter the hole acts as a sump, fills with water creating anaerobic conditions which rot the plant’s roots.
You need to improve the soil in the entire area to be planted … this will facilitate good drainage while allowing the soil to retain enough moisture to promote healthy root growth.
Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.
Digging a hole into clay, putting in compost and planting into the compost is a mistake often made by inexperienced gardeners.
It can appear to work for a short while in the summer, but in the winter the hole acts as a sump, fills with water creating anaerobic conditions which rot the plant’s roots.
You need to improve the soil in the entire area to be planted … this will facilitate good drainage while allowing the soil to retain enough moisture to promote healthy root growth.
I did my first planting early last autumn, Dove, and I have been through a winter and a heavy rainy season in Worthing, on the south coast of England. The stuff that becomes mud in the soil in most parts of England is the fine dust at the top 2 inches where the water gets trapped by it. The bottom layers are more porous, but the water does not get down there. My holes take the water down and have been improving the soil in the whole area naturally. My worms have also helped. The compost holes and the worms have got things started to give nature a helping hand to improve soil of the whole area.
I have monitored the water in the compost right through and it has all drained down within 2 minutes even after the heaviest rains or 15 minutes of watering.
Also, my planting annuals have helped. They grow roots down and then die. when they die, their roots decompose and makes that area's soil porous, allowing water and plant material to get down. Improves the soil of the whole area naturally.
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Yes, all great ideas. I second these.
A close up of the Hebes will help determine if it's a reasonably tough variety. Many are less hardy than others too. The smaller the foliage generally speaking, the tougher they are, but they often succumb in cold wet conditions, and don't always respond well to pruning hard.
I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.
https://www.thompson-morgan.com/p/earthworms/mllwTM
"Adding Earthworms to the garden to improve soil health – worms are an excellent addition to ‘Gardening The Natural Way’. Earthworms (also commonly known as Lobworms or Garden worms) will work and rejuvenate the soil’s health, condition and overall drainage (even burrowing tough clay soils) as lobworms work deeper in the soil than normal compost worms they burrow and drag surface matter into the depths including getting much needed oxygen into the soil, rejuvenating the soil naturally. "
Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.
Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.
I have monitored the water in the compost right through and it has all drained down within 2 minutes even after the heaviest rains or 15 minutes of watering.
Also, my planting annuals have helped. They grow roots down and then die. when they die, their roots decompose and makes that area's soil porous, allowing water and plant material to get down. Improves the soil of the whole area naturally.
My Salvia patch where there was only caking mud just 13 months ago which I slipped on and fell trying to clean my windows.