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Planting advice for Magnolia tree?

pantplotpantplot Posts: 7
in Problem solving
Hi all, looking for a bit of guidance (be kind, I'm a complete novice).

I have recently had the garden of a new build property landscaped, and as part of the design I have a spot where I plan on planting a fairly mature Magnolia x soulangeana (6-8cm girth, 2.5-3.0m tall).

To save some effort, I had my landscapers dig the planting hole (or approximation thereof) whilst they were working on the garden. Unfortunately, obtaining the tree has taken far longer than I initially anticipated so I've been living with this hole in the corner of my garden for a few months now (it's had a small table over it protecting from heavy rainfall).

I'm expecting the wait to come to an end soon so have begun to think about what I should be doing to ensure the tree gets a good start and decent chance of survival.

Firstly (and perhaps naively), I no longer have any of the soil that was excavated from the planting hole, and neither is there really anywhere else in the garden I can easily transfer it from (there are a few, well-planted raised beds and the rest is lawn/patio). What are my recommended options in terms of backfilling when it comes to planting the tree? What should I be looking to use?

Secondly, would folk recommend I stake the tree, and is the use of an irrigation kit worthwhile?

Anything else I should be mindful/aware of?


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  • FairygirlFairygirl Posts: 55,117
    You could buy a bag of topsoil to use - you can mix in some compost and a bit of bonemeal. If you re dig the hole a little bit, and add all of that when you plant, that should do the job :)
    If the soil's in reasonable condition otherwise, it shouldn't need anything else. I doubt you'd need an irrigation kit - just keep it well watered until autumn/winter rain is consistent, and that should keep it going until spring. A mulch of more compost or bark will also keep it from drying out [your own conditions and climate will be factors] and that will also help keep weeds at bay. 
    Staking is always a good idea. There are various methods, but the current thinking is to use a stake placed at an angle of around 45 degrees, fairly low down on the main trunk, and into the path of prevailing wind.  :)
    It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....



    I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
  • LoxleyLoxley Posts: 5,698
    Yes, regular bagged topsoil should do. I would use your own soil to fill in the base of the pit to the correct level for your rootball (scraped from the sides of the pit) and then place the topsoil around the upper parts of the rootball. Does the hole fill with water, and does it drain away quickly if so?

    Make sure the tree is settled with the point where the trunk meets the root no lower than the surrounding soil. (The trunk must not be buried, better plant too high than too low). If the tree's roots come in a hessian and wire wrap, remove as much of that stuff as possible after the tree is set in place (doesn't matter if there's a bit underneath you can't get to). Nurseries often tell you to leave the wrapping in place, but it can cause problems if left. 
    "What is hateful to you, do not do to your neighbour". 
  • FairygirlFairygirl Posts: 55,117
    I agree re the hessian @Loxley - it's just a larger version of the r*ddy teabag isn't it?
    It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....



    I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
  • purplerallimpurplerallim Posts: 5,287
    Just make sure you have left enough room all around the tree for future growth,  as it will double in size, and you don't want it to damage your fences. Mine was 8ft×8ft before I removed it.
  • FairygirlFairygirl Posts: 55,117
    It's also harder to establish a more mature specimen. I should have mentioned that in my original post.
    Yes - enough room for eventual spread is definitely very important @purplerallim.

    Hopefully, @mailug44Le4x will be successful. 
    It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....



    I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
  • pantplotpantplot Posts: 7
    Thanks all, really helpful  :)

    Loxley said:
    Does the hole fill with water, and does it drain away quickly if so?
    It doesn't no, so I'm hoping drainage won't be a problem. I do have a table above it at the moment, but that wasn't always in situ and I don't recall water pooling before I thought to put it there.

    purplerallim said:
    Just make sure you have left enough room all around the tree for future growth,  as it will double in size, and you don't want it to damage your fences. Mine was 8ft×8ft before I removed it.
    This one has me a little more concerned. Was yours an x soulangeana? Mine will be a single-stem tree rather than a bush, and I've left approx 5ft either side of the centre of the currently dug hole. Pic attached. There's membrane under that gravel, and contrary to what you see in the photo, the corner does get a moderate amount of sunshine.


  • purplerallimpurplerallim Posts: 5,287
    I inherited mine from the previous owner, and was told it was variety called Susan , at that point it was 25 yo. It was a single base, splitting into multiple stems of 6 inch width,  and as I said it covered about 8ft, when cut back,  bigger if allowed to grow. That hole doesn't look five foot from both walls, and if it isn't your walls may suffer in the future. 
  • fidgetbonesfidgetbones Posts: 17,618
    Susan is pretty small. Mine got even smaller when the B*5Tard builders next door took a chain saw to the main stem. My Magnolia soulangeana, 30 year old was planted as as a 3ft stick. It is 15ft high and across.
  • borgadrborgadr Posts: 718
    I also have a Magnolia x Soulangeana that was given to me in a pot a year ago, and now planning to plant it out. It's much younger than yours - about as tall as me. I had an aboriculturalist over here the other week doing a survey of my trees, and when I asked him about it his advice was to plant it out over winter when it's dormant. 

    I don't know if other members would agree with this?

    @Loxley and @Fairygirl - would you mix in some ericaceous compost with the topsoil or not bother?
  • FairygirlFairygirl Posts: 55,117
    Might be worth making the planting hole further out from the walls to give you more room in future.  Do you know what variety of tree you're getting?
    The whole area might also benefit from some attention re the soil structure before you get to the planting stage. New builds are notoriously poor in terms of the soil - or what passes for soil. 
    Loads of well rotted manure and organic matter - compost, leaf mould etc, will make a huge difference, especially as you're intending planting a mature specimen, although 6 - 8 cm isn't very mature.  
    It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....



    I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
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