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Brambles won't die

amyplumbamyplumb Posts: 14
in Problem solving
Hi all, I'm having problems killing brambles that having taken over a flower bed. The weed killer I paint on the leaves just drips off - its like the leaves are completely waterproof both sides.  I've applied it once a week for four weeks and it doesn't seem to be doing anything at all. Any tips? 
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  • DovefromaboveDovefromabove Posts: 88,147
    edited August 2021
    It's a bit late in the season ... the leaves are old and weathered and are shutting down ready for autumn ... the best time to paint on the weedkiller is early in the season not long after the leaf buds have unfurled and they are growing strongly ... it's then that they absorb the weedkiller the best and it translocates back to the roots.  

    Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.





  • Pete.8Pete.8 Posts: 11,340
    If you used a glyphosate-based herbicide it may take a bit longer in this cool weather.
    If you gave them the 1st treatment at the end of July and more in August too it should be taking effect, but it can also take a while for the plant to show it is dying.
    It's not something I use often but I use a concentrated form that I dilute. I also add just a few drops of washing up liquid that acts as a wetting agent which helps it stick to the leaves.

    I have an Oregon thornless blackberry (that Dove kindly identified for me a year or so ago). The berries have little flavour in comparison to my Waldo (~6Kg in the freezer :)), so this morning I gave the Oregon a good spray with glyphosate and will follow up with another next week.
    I'm pretty confident it will soon be on its way out.

    Billericay - Essex

    Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit.
    Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.
  • amyplumbamyplumb Posts: 14
    Thank you :) I wish it was shutting down, there's loads of new growth everywhere. Perhaps I'll mix it with some washing up liquid and concentrate on painting the new leaves, see if that works better. :) thanks again 
  • Pete.8Pete.8 Posts: 11,340
    Good idea!
    the fresh new leaves will absorb the herbicide quickly.
    I only use about 5 drops of washing up liquid to 1L spray.

    Billericay - Essex

    Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit.
    Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.
  • amyplumbamyplumb Posts: 14
    Great, thank you :)
  • DovefromaboveDovefromabove Posts: 88,147
    If there is new growth then I agree ... go for it 👍

    Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.





  • Allotment BoyAllotment Boy Posts: 6,774
    Put the weed killer in an old jar / bottle whatever you have. nip the end off the shoot & then stuff as much of the shoot as you can into the jar. Make sure its  supported so it cant be knocked over. Leave it a week or 2 , it will work.
    AB Still learning

  • amyplumbamyplumb Posts: 14
    Thank you :)
  • EmerionEmerion Posts: 599
    I’m glad I read this thread @Allotment Boy, thank you. I don’t spray weed killer anymore, because it can spread onto the wrong thing even on supposedly still days. But I have a bad problem of bramble at the back of a border where I just cant get at it to dig it out. This is the best plan that I’ve heard for that situation. 
    Carmarthenshire (mild, wet, windy). Loam over shale, very slightly sloping, so free draining. Mildly acidic or neutral.


  • bédébédé Posts: 3,095
    edited September 2021
    Stout gloves, tough old clothes.  A stong pull on each shoot you can reach.  Repeat.  And again next year.  Perhaps forever.  Chop up and compost.  Look out for seedlings.

    It worked for me. 
     location: Surrey Hills, England, ex-woodland acidic sand.
    "Have nothing in your garden that you don't know to be useful, or believe to be beautiful."
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