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Help with pruning of balcony plants Thuja Occidentalis AKA Smaragd.

Reminder, you are talking to an absolute beginner, never tried anything like it to grow on my balcony.   

I have the following Thuja Occidentalis on my balcony, well two, in a pot.  See pics.  They have been doing very well and now the point has come to prune a bit here and there.  My main worry is to stop them from getting any taller or wider, and how to prune it or shape it.  See I want to keep the cone shape of the plant, having it get not any wider and make sure it still looks natural and, in a cone-shape.  And maybe there is a time of year that is better than others.  I assume spring or autumn. 

Both, one more than the other, have sort of several tops, does anybody know if I could bring those more into a cone shape by putting on some training wires that pull them together a bit like with a bonsai as it is trained? For this I would use old strips of inner bicycle tubing.  I do this also with an indoor Ficus I have since 25 years which is ±2.6 Meter high and ±1.20 Meter wide.  What would be the best method according to your knowledge?  Or does anybody have any other ideas? 

So dear experts out there, how to do this?  Love to hear your tips and ideas. 

Posts

  • FairygirlFairygirl Posts: 55,117
    There are no photos  :)
    Most conifers need trimmed regularly - ie each year, sometimes twice, by just a small amount, to avoid cutting back into old wood, as they often don't recover from that. The best way to keep the shape is to do that.
    Thujas are more forgiving, but it's always better to only take off the previous year's growth each time to avoid damage. 
    It sounds odd that you say they have more than one leader though. Have they had the tops taken out at some point? Smaragd usually has quite a defined shape, which is why they're popular, as they don't require much shaping to keep them neat. 
    It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....



    I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
  • o dear forgot the pics, sorry. 


    and not sure why the computer needs to turn them or how to correct this. 
  • FairygirlFairygirl Posts: 55,117
    There's a problem with photo loading just now, so don't worry. I've turned this one

    I'm not sure how successfully you could pull the tops in, but normally, those would all keep growing and would just keep the general cone shape, with the slightly shorter stems staying shorter than the main leader, if that makes sense. 
    As you're wanting to keep them smaller than their ultimate size would be, you could probably experiment a little with some wire or string, just to see how they do. Not something I've ever tried, but I can't see the harm.

    They're looking very well anyway.  :)
    It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....



    I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
  • I'm not sure how successfully you could pull the tops in, but normally, those would all keep growing and would just keep the general cone shape, with the slightly shorter stems staying shorter than the main leader, if that makes sense. 
    that does make sence

    As you're wanting to keep them smaller than their ultimate size would be, you could probably experiment a little with some wire or string, just to see how they do. Not something I've ever tried, but I can't see the harm.
    not sure what you mean here.  the pulling together was more as an idea to make them more cone-shaped.  I was suspecting me needing to trim the top as to stop them getting taller. so there is my question how best to achieve this? 

    They're looking very well anyway.
    thanks.  
  • ElferElfer Posts: 329
    Thuja Smaragd usually have more than one leader, you might be able to find some with only a single leader if you had the choice of a large selection at a nursery.
  • Hi Elfer, I checked when the rain stopped and mine have indeed several leaders.  They come up right from the bottom of the plant.

    So how should I go about it?
  • NollieNollie Posts: 7,529
    Spiralling a wire from top to bottom, getting narrower as you reach the top, is an old technique used to train Italian Cyprus and correct floppy branches so you could try that, although I’m not sure how successful it would be on a multi-leader conifer.

    There was a good tip on trimming conifer cones and obelisks to a sharp point with even sides on a recent Carol Klein/Channel 5 programme on Woollerton Old Hall gardens recently. They made a simple ‘batter guide’. An L shaped construction of two wooden lengths, braced at the bottom, with the vertical length at a wider angle to rest against the outer edge of conifer. Presumably they moved it around, trimming the excess that poked out. You could do something similar, with the top of the angled upright going a little higher than the current height. If you regularly trimmed the new top growth around all sides it should eventually grow to meet as a point. A wigwam of bamboo canes with horizontal crossbars at the base to maintain the correct angle and distance of canes, popped over each conifer at trimming time would also work as an accurate guide. 
    Mountainous Northern Catalunya, Spain. Hot summers, cold winters.
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