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Gauging quantities of compost/organic matter for clay area

Hi all back again. 
As previously discussed Ive dug out an area in my garden which is pure red/tan/orange clay which I wish to turn into a lawn. I've been adviced to add in some organic matter prior to topsoiling and laying turf.  The area is approx 6m x 6m. What sort of amount would I need to lay on top of this area? How much compost/organic matter and then how much top soil. Want to give it the best head start aswell as being mindful of the costs. 

Thanks again.
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  • FairygirlFairygirl Posts: 55,117
    You can never add too much organic matter to clay. The only problem is that it will gradually break down and settle, so regardless of the level you achieve after adding topsoil, you'll need to wait before turfing. If you do it all now, by next year, the turf level will be far lower than the level you ultimately want.
    If you were to add a good layer of manure now, it will possibly settle quite well  by autumn for adding the soil and then turfing, but if it was mine, I'd wait until spring to let it break right down before proceeding. The climate you have will have an effect on how quickly the breaking down happens. 
    It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....



    I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
  • glarhzillaglarhzilla Posts: 12
    Fairygirl said:
    You can never add too much organic matter to clay. The only problem is that it will gradually break down and settle, so regardless of the level you achieve after adding topsoil, you'll need to wait before turfing. If you do it all now, by next year, the turf level will be far lower than the level you ultimately want.
    If you were to add a good layer of manure now, it will possibly settle quite well  by autumn for adding the soil and then turfing, but if it was mine, I'd wait until spring to let it break right down before proceeding. The climate you have will have an effect on how quickly the breaking down happens. 
    Thank you. So let's say I add it and then it settles will this ammend or at least aid the clay soil in becoming a better structure?
  • FairygirlFairygirl Posts: 55,117
    It will, and that in turn will help with the drainage of the turf in future. 
    Clay is always difficult for turf, especially if there's a hard pan of it near the surface. It just prevents excess water getting away in wet wet weather, especially over winter.
    It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....



    I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
  • I don't wish to sound negative but you'll be wasting your time. No amount of organic material will turn your clay (which I'm assuming means your garden is poorly drained) into free draining soil suitable for a usable lawn. Not in the time frame you'd like at least..it will over a number of years improve the structure but not overnight.
    The grass will probably grow quite well in summer but come the wet seasons will turn, at worst, into a moss riddled bog.
    A nice healthy lawn needs free draining soil unless you are prepared to invest in drainage, raise the level of the whole lawn or hollow tine and scarify it at least twice yearly.
    I know that doesn't sound very encouraging but i wouldn't want you to be disappointed or out of pocket...especially as you're on a budget. 
  • LoxleyLoxley Posts: 5,698
    I wouldn't bother with organic matter added to the subsoil. Make sure the lawn slopes to somewhere it can drain away, say 1:60 minimum. Break up any compaction in the clay. Lay at least 150mm topsoil (finished depth after leveling and firming in). I think you can have a reasonable lawn.
    "What is hateful to you, do not do to your neighbour". 
  • glarhzillaglarhzilla Posts: 12
    I appreciate your honesty mate. Have you heard of drilling down with a long drill (not sure what it's called) and filled with organic matter and gravel and or Hort grit? Would that help or again a waste of time?
  • glarhzillaglarhzilla Posts: 12
    Loxley said:
    I wouldn't bother with organic matter added to the subsoil. Make sure the lawn slopes to somewhere it can drain away, say 1:60 minimum. Break up any compaction in the clay. Lay at least 150mm topsoil (finished depth after leveling and firming in). I think you can have a reasonable lawn.
    Thanks I'll have to have a rethink then. Maybe artificial grass may be the answer with 100mm of maybe type 3 as it's more permeable than type one then grano dust. So the surface water is reduced? Appreciate your reply. 
  • I appreciate your honesty mate. Have you heard of drilling down with a long drill (not sure what it's called) and filled with organic matter and gravel and or Hort grit? Would that help or again a waste of time?
    An auger. Yes, that could work. You'll need quite a few and most importantly will need to drill into  granular subsoil that's free draining. 
    Google 'gardens without lawns' or alternatives to grass - you may have already but worth having a look to give you ideas.
  • glarhzillaglarhzilla Posts: 12
    I appreciate your honesty mate. Have you heard of drilling down with a long drill (not sure what it's called) and filled with organic matter and gravel and or Hort grit? Would that help or again a waste of time?
    An auger. Yes, that could work. You'll need quite a few and most importantly will need to drill into  granular subsoil that's free draining. 
    Google 'gardens without lawns' or alternatives to grass - you may have already but worth having a look to give you ideas.
    Thanks pal. Will check it out. 
  • LoxleyLoxley Posts: 5,698
    No I would give topsoiling and turfing a go. I think you'll be fine if you can lay to a gentle fall to somewhere the water can run away. Orange coloured clay shows there is some permeability in the subsoil, much better than grey or blue clay.
    "What is hateful to you, do not do to your neighbour". 
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