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Camelia Problem

qq66qq66 Posts: 4
in Problem solving
Hello all, i have inherited a cpl of Camelia from a recently passed relative. They have always been in the pots but were located on turf and the roots had grown through the bottom of the pots. these have now been re-located to my house, still in the pots but on slate chippings. Both have been abundant with growth and flowers but as you can see one has just turned brown, this seemed to co-incide with some very light pruning. As you can see there is a small amount of new growth but essentially I'm after some advice as to how to save it if possible. I must add I am a complete novice!!

Posts

  • ErgatesErgates Posts: 2,953
    The pots are very small, and the roots obviously got severed when they were removed from the ground they had grown into. I’d repot them into bigger pots, in ericaceous compost. I’d cut off the dead branches on the worst affected one. They’ll need lots of watering, really needs to be rain water. 
    I’d also move them away from the wall, they won’t get much rain so near the house, but make sure they are shaded from the morning sun, especially after cooler nights. They  get shocked if the hot sun hits them before they’ve warmed up.
    I’m no expert, but this might give them a chance of recovery if you’re lucky. If they do recover, I’m sure they’d be happier in the ground somewhere, but only if you have acid soil.
  • qq66qq66 Posts: 4
    Ergates, thank you very much for your advice, i will update in due course
  • ERICS MUMERICS MUM Posts: 627
    I agree with Ergates, very sound advice.  
  • luis_prluis_pr Posts: 123
    edited June 2021
    The corner where they are located may require more humidity, the sun reflected from the wall may warm things more so the potting soil needs to be checked daily for 1-2 weeks after relocating before you get an idea of how frequently & how much to water. Depending on where you are and your weather, it may also have received a late frost or freeze.

    Camellia roots are very shallow, tiny, fibrous, typically found about 10 cm deep. To know when to water, insert a finger into the soil to a depth of 7-10 cm and water if the soil feels dry or almost dry.

    A camellia in a pot may need to be in rollers if there is a chance of frost/freeze where you live. While they can be left outside sometimes, their roots will not be able to withstand wintry conditions as well as camellias planted in the ground. It may be necessary to bring them inside if weather conditions warrant it. Some things that you could do if leaving the pot outside: water deeply the night before a frost (provided the soil is not already very moist or soggy); use frost cloth; use incandescent light bulbs; move to a more protected outside location, etc. Mulch on a potted camellia may help minimize loss of soil humidity but may not help protect the roots from cold damage because of the pot/container materials.

    The camellia variety and its blooming status can also make a difference in regards to how the plant manages environmental conditions and how much protection it will need. I have a 10+ year oold camellia japonica that was planted in a protected area (southern exposure) and, while it was blooming in mid-February, we got hit with a freeze. That plant lost all foliage and, after a few weeks, most of its branches dried out and looked like yours. However, after the freeze, I maintained the soil as evenly moist possible at all times so, 2.5 months after the freeze, the plant developed new leaves at the bottom part of the main trunk. Other camellias who were starting to bloom at the same time of the freeze and who have more exposure to the cold -surprisingly- received less damage and limited the loss of branches to the ends of some small branches only.

    I pruned the branches after using the scratch method to confirm that there was no "green": very carefully, scratch the bark of medium sized branches (it may be difficult to scratch and not break small branches) to see if you "see green". If the branch is small (not thick), you can start making cuts starting at the ends, moving inwards, in small increments like every 5 cms; then stop when you "see green". I restarted fertilizing after I observed signs of new growth.

    In the case of potted camellias, you now need to decide if you want to save the plant or not, plant it in the ground, etc. as it will take several years for it to regain its previous dimensions. I normally try to save them as camellias tend to be expensive but, that is a personal choice.
  • LynLyn Posts: 23,190
    Personally I would bother with them, I don’t think a plant can come back from that much damage.
    As Ergates says, small pots, big roots, and now damaged, it’s been a very dry Spring they would have needed watering every day. 
    You can buy them quite cheaply in supermarkets or GC.,  
    They're usually pretty tough plants but in the conditions. 
    I have cut one right back almost to the base and it’s made shoots, you could try that, bigger pot,  good soil, or in the ground. 

    Gardening on the wild, windy west side of Dartmoor. 

  • qq66qq66 Posts: 4
    luis_pr said:
    The corner where they are located may require more humidity, the sun reflected from the wall may warm things more so the potting soil needs to be checked daily for 1-2 weeks after relocating before you get an idea of how frequently & how much to water. Depending on where you are and your weather, it may also have received a late frost or freeze.

    Camellia roots are very shallow, tiny, fibrous, typically found about 10 cm deep. To know when to water, insert a finger into the soil to a depth of 7-10 cm and water if the soil feels dry or almost dry.

    A camellia in a pot may need to be in rollers if there is a chance of frost/freeze where you live. While they can be left outside sometimes, their roots will not be able to withstand wintry conditions as well as camellias planted in the ground. It may be necessary to bring them inside if weather conditions warrant it. Some things that you could do if leaving the pot outside: water deeply the night before a frost (provided the soil is not already very moist or soggy); use frost cloth; use incandescent light bulbs; move to a more protected outside location, etc. Mulch on a potted camellia may help minimize loss of soil humidity but may not help protect the roots from cold damage because of the pot/container materials.

    The camellia variety and its blooming status can also make a difference in regards to how the plant manages environmental conditions and how much protection it will need. I have a 10+ year oold camellia japonica that was planted in a protected area (southern exposure) and, while it was blooming in mid-February, we got hit with a freeze. That plant lost all foliage and, after a few weeks, most of its branches dried out and looked like yours. However, after the freeze, I maintained the soil as evenly moist possible at all times so, 2.5 months after the freeze, the plant developed new leaves at the bottom part of the main trunk. Other camellias who were starting to bloom at the same time of the freeze and who have more exposure to the cold -surprisingly- received less damage and limited the loss of branches to the ends of some small branches only.

    I pruned the branches after using the scratch method to confirm that there was no "green": very carefully, scratch the bark of medium sized branches (it may be difficult to scratch and not break small branches) to see if you "see green". If the branch is small (not thick), you can start making cuts starting at the ends, moving inwards, in small increments like every 5 cms; then stop when you "see green". I restarted fertilizing after I observed signs of new growth.

    In the case of potted camellias, you now need to decide if you want to save the plant or not, plant it in the ground, etc. as it will take several years for it to regain its previous dimensions. I normally try to save them as camellias tend to be expensive but, that is a personal choice.
    thanks luis, the scratch method, is that an established method of cutting them back or one you have developed? what type of fertiliser?
  • qq66qq66 Posts: 4
    Ergates said:
    The pots are very small, and the roots obviously got severed when they were removed from the ground they had grown into. I’d repot them into bigger pots, in ericaceous compost. I’d cut off the dead branches on the worst affected one. They’ll need lots of watering, really needs to be rain water. 
    I’d also move them away from the wall, they won’t get much rain so near the house, but make sure they are shaded from the morning sun, especially after cooler nights. They  get shocked if the hot sun hits them before they’ve warmed up.
    I’m no expert, but this might give them a chance of recovery if you’re lucky. If they do recover, I’m sure they’d be happier in the ground somewhere, but only if you have acid soil.
    hello again, when you say cut off the dead branches, is there a right place on the branch to cut them?
  • LynLyn Posts: 23,190
    As I said, I cut one right down to the ground, this was it about 4 years later.  As long as your roots are still alive there’s hope, but that depends on if they are alive.
    I don’t think there’s a lot of choice there, you’ve got nothing to lose by trying.


    Gardening on the wild, windy west side of Dartmoor. 

  • luis_prluis_pr Posts: 123
    Hello, qq66. You asked "is that an established method of cutting them back or one you have developed?" Yes, it is a common method to prune dead wood but useful on medium sized branches or larger that can be safely scratch. Small branches may split if you try to scratch them. In that case, I would not scratch. Instead, I would start pruning the branch from the end inwards in small increments and I would stop pruning when I "see green".

    "what type of fertiliser?" Use a slow release acidic fertilizer for ericaceous plants (like azaleas, camellias, hydrangeas, etc.) that has minor nutrients/elements. Start feeding when you see some leaf growth but consider waiting if there are still chances of frost. Continue feeding per product label directions but try to stop around July. If your plants are well established, and you are not concerned about more growth, choose a fertilizer that has a smaller first number, and a larger second and third number. For example, a 4-8-8 fertilizer with minor elements included would be a good choice for well established camellias. If your camellias are younger plants, and you want them to concentrate their energies on growing for a few years, you may wish to choose a fertilizer that has a higher first number such as 12-4-8 with minor elements.

    If your soil is alkaline, you may need to acidify the soil if you notice symptoms of iron chlorosis in the leaves or if you do a soil pH test and it is very alkaline. Garden sulfur or chelated liquid compounds can be used to acidify the soil but apply only per product label directions.



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