Help! Jupiter Apple Tree...I think it's dying?

Pompeyexile · May 2021

Last year I posted pictures of my sick Jupiter Apple tree that I had trained into an espalier and after ten or so years, it had not produced any fruit, and it was suffering from what I think was a severe attack of woolley aphid. I was given great advice on how to deal with the aphids, and put straight on how the Jupiter needed other apple trees in order to polinate and thus produce fruit.

I duly went out and bought two pot dwarf apples, Scrumptious and Alkmene, which were the variaties recommended for pollination of the Jupiter. As for the aphids, I used an organic soap and water mix and using a toothbrush, carefully scrubbed them away. But, they came back and so I did this at least five times. I also at the end of the season sprayed the tree and the back wall liberally with a winter wash.

Now, this spring I have put feed in the soil but to no avail. As you can see from the photo's the woolley aphids are back with a vengeance. There has been no blossom and no leaves have appeared. All that is showing are these spindly green (shoots?). The dwarf apples, have blossomed, have leaves and no sign of aphids.

Please can anyone advise as to what I can do if anything to rescue the Jupiter.

Many thanks

Paul.

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/6030279/uploads/editor/5e/7l6n9ekp4pd7.jpg

Dovefromabove · May 2021

How much watering does it get?

Pompeyexile · May 2021

I try and water it every other week with a hose. But I'll up that to more if that is the problem.

Bijdezee · May 2021

Is the espalier in the ground? Can't see from the photo. It's covered in Woolley aphid but I assume you took the photo before you cleaned it up. It should have leaves by now at least. Some varieties of apple, cox's for example, are more prone to aphids. My cooker Belle de Boskoop never gets them but I have a dwarf variety cox's and it had them last year. Being a dwarf it was easy to get them off.

I wonder if the espalier is dead? Or dying. Lack of fruit/blossom could be due to incorrect pruning or shaping.

Dovefromabove · May 2021

It's very close to a wall ... walls have an effect called a 'rain shadow ' which means that the soil in the lee of a wall will be very dry ... coupled with the fact that the foundations can act as a sponge and soak up any moisture available, it can be a very difficult area for fruit trees and they really should be planted a good distance from the actual wall and then trained back a bit to the wire framework, which itself should be spaced out from the wall to provide good airflow.

However we are where we are ... or rather your tree is

We had an incredibly dry April which is just the time when your tree would have been trying to produce blossom and leaf buds. I was giving my freestanding espaliered pear two buckets of water three times a week throughout April, pouring it gently over the root area so that it soaked in and didn't run off the surface.

I would do that for yours now, even if it has been raining ... and carry on from now until the end of September ... then start again in March ... also mulch with organic matter once the soil is wet for several inches below the surface. If we have a long hot spell I'd increase the watering to three buckets three times a week.

Hope that helps.

Pompeyexile · May 2021

Thank you for your advice guys. Yes it was planted in the ground. I didn't realise the 'being too close to the wall' scenario when I planted it, but as you say it is where it is. So I have spent a good hour cleaning off the aphids with soapy water and a toothbrush and I'll start the watering regime and mulching as advised.

As for pruning/ shaping I've always found that a real challenge knowing what to cut off etc, so it is quite possible I've done more damage than good I suppose.

Is there anything I can put on the tree to prevent aphids or is it just a case of as soon as they come washing and brushing them off? Will a winter wash help in December/January or should I not bother?

Help! Jupiter Apple Tree...I think it's dying?

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