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Skimmia and Camellia with yellow leaves - help needed

bjones39bjones39 Posts: 5
in The potting shed
Hello,

First post so please be kind!

I have a small semi-circular bed with three Skimmia and one Camellia in it.  All plants are displaying yellow leaves.

Pictures show the three Skimmia and Camellia in that bed and another (larger) Camellia which is also looking a bit sorry for itself.

The first picture is of the treatments I have used (to no effect) Calcium for the Camellias and the Ericaceous for the Skimmia (sorry that the pictures are sideways - don't know how to sort that)



Any suggestions?

Kind regards

BJ
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Posts

  • ObelixxObelixx Posts: 30,090
    Camellias are ericaceous and don't like calcium so keep that for the tomatoes.  Calcium locks up iron and magnesium in the soil and make them inaccessible to ericaceous plants and they end up being chlorotic and anaemic.   The quickest way to fix this is a foliar feed of Epsom salts - 15ml dissolved in 5L of water and poured over the leaves using teh spray head on your watering can.   

    Skimmias are not fussed about acidity or alkalinity but their foliage will go yellow if the soil is poor or they have insufficient water if planted in full sun.   The Epsom salts trick will help yours.

    It's been a cold, dry and windy spring and that won't help either plant so give them both a couple of good drinks or 15L of water with 15ml of Epsom salts mixed in.  Pour it slowly so it sinks in.  Once they have been well watered, you need to give them a mulch of soil improver such as well-rotted garden compost or manure or specialist conditioner for ericaceous plants.  This will help retain the moisture and also improve soil fertility.

    Your camellia is a plant from Monsoon regions so make sure it doesn't go thirsty from July into autumn as this is when it sets the flowers for next spring.   A good soaking once a week is better than little dribbles which just encourage roots up to the surface where they fry.
    Vendée - 20kms from Atlantic coast.
    "The price good men (and women) pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men (and women)."
    Plato
  • FairygirlFairygirl Posts: 55,117
    If your soil isn't on the acidic side of neutral, it's difficult for them to get the right nutrients. A proprietary feed for that type of shrub is best, but if you also regularly add leaf mould, decent compost, or finely shredded bark as a mulch, that will gradually work down and help the soil structure. Epsom salts can sometimes be used [diluted] to help with Magnesium levels, as a lack of that causes yellowing of foliage, but I'd always opt for a good branded product made specifically for them, as I'm not always convinced about it's efficacy.
    Mulching with bark will also help them as it suits these shrubs when broken down, and also helps retain some moisture. They'll possibly be competing with each other and the grass for moisture too if you're in a drier area.
    They also perform best in a shadier location if you don't have the perfect soil and plenty of rain, so if they're in a very light, bright or sunny spot, that makes it harder for them to do well  :)
    It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....



    I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
  • bjones39bjones39 Posts: 5
    edited May 2021
    Thank you Obelixx and Fairygirl

    I've ordered some Epsom salts and will apply diluted to the ground as soon as it arrives and do the foliar feed if the rain stops (otherwise it would be washed off)?
    Regarding the foliar treatment - is this best done on a cloudy day or sunny?
    I'm thinking cloudy as there is less transpiration from the leaves.

    The four smaller plants are against a N-S running beech hedge on the eastern side of the garden.  The garden itself faces south so they are in full sun from around midday to dusk.
    Semi-circular bed is on left-hand side in this picture.  The large camellia is on the right in front of the greenhouse.



    I don't know if the soil is acidic or alkaline but I have some Universal Indicator test strips.  Is it simply a matter of getting a soil sample, adding some water then using the test strips?

    Regarding mulching, we should have some well rotted compost that I could apply.

    Thanks once again,

    Regards

    BJ
  • FairygirlFairygirl Posts: 55,117
    Quite sunny for them then, and the hedge will also be a major factor regarding moisture.
    The better the condition of the soil - ie more moisture retentive, the better the shrubs will be. 
    Foliar feeds should never be applied in sunny conditions. 
    I've never had to test the soil here, or in any garden I've had, so I can't help with that. It's largely neutral to acidic here. If you look at the type of planting that thrives in your area, that will help indicate the pH. 
    In any case, plenty of organic matter at regular intervals. Just keep the main trunks of the plants clear.  :)
    It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....



    I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
  • ObelixxObelixx Posts: 30,090
    Make sure the soil is thoroughly soaked before adding any mulch or you'll seal in dryness.  For the strips you'd have to follow the instructions given and make sure you use distilled water.
    Vendée - 20kms from Atlantic coast.
    "The price good men (and women) pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men (and women)."
    Plato
  • FairygirlFairygirl Posts: 55,117
    Ah - the pic wasn't there when I posted. 
    There's certainly a lot of competition from the hedge. I'm not sure exactly of the Camellia's location, but again, there's a lot of mature planting there, so nutrient levels could be low. 
    Plenty of organic matter though - it will always benefit all of them. You can add it at any time of year as it will break down and improve the soil quality. Mulching with bark would be good in autumn into winter, when you can be sure of the moisture in the soil, and you can always top it up in late winter too.  :)
    It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....



    I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
  • bjones39bjones39 Posts: 5
    edited May 2021
    Thank you both once again.

    Fairygirl - same picture but plants identified for you   :)



    Kind regards

    BJ
  • ErgatesErgates Posts: 2,953
    It seems quite a small bed for what can get to be quite big shrubs. Maybe you could consider moving one or two out to reduce competition for water and nutrients?
  • bjones39bjones39 Posts: 5
    Hi Ergates

    Semi-circular bed is around 10' 3" (312cm) from top to bottom (along hedge) and sticks out some 5' 2" (58cm) from the hedge.

    Plants are spaced around 3' (92cm) apart.

    Just tested the soil pH in the bed and it seems to be around pH6



    Should it be more acidic than this?

    BJ
  • FairygirlFairygirl Posts: 55,117
    No that's fine. Keep adding organic matter and mulching after watering, and it will help, but it's a small space for those 4 shrubs in together. Skimmias can get to around a metre in each direction in good conditions. Camellias get huge, as I expect you know, as you have the other one.

    They'll need a lot of water to counteract the competition from the hedge and each other. The grass too. 

    I was slightly confused by the  camellia in a previous post, until I realised you were talking about another one near the greenhouse  :)
    It's a place where beautiful isn't enough of a word....



    I live in west central Scotland - not where that photo is...
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