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Can anyone solve this problem?

Hi:

I'm not sure if this is is the correct category to ask this question? If not let me know where I should post.

I'm trying to figure out what to do in my backyard. I have a cinder block wall that had various vines growing from my neighbors side. He took the vines out which killed them on my side. 

Now, what to do? 

The wall faces East. I live in Sacramento. In the summer the wall gets about 6-7 hours of sun. The big problem is the cinder block planter box, which has a cement bottom! :s (photos attached).

It's 18" from the top of the cinder block box to the cement bottom. It's 17" of room (deep) from the back wall to the front of the cinder block. The length of the box is 26 feet. 

I wanted to plant bougainvillea, roses or Japanese euonymus. The problem is no drainage; root rot; little room for roots to grow, roots getting steamed in summer since the box is all cement! 

Any suggestions for the type of plants that might work as is OR how to modify the cement box so there will be enough drainage?

Thank you! 

 

Posts

  • Hello! Any chance you could add a full top to the planter - possibly with paving slabs, supported underneath - to make a usable shelf you could place large pots on? You could then place pots at ground level too to create height, volume and drama. If you left a section and topped it with timber you could make a permanent seat in the middle of the planting that could accommodate guests that come for drinks/bbq. As you say, a shallow, narrow bed that has no drainage and overheats in summer is less than ideal for most plants.

    Another option is to drill through the base of cement box to make drainage holes. At some point you would hit earth. What was the original purpose of the cement box?

    I'm sure there are other possibilities, I just can think of them. I'm sure someone else will be along to share their experience/wisdom.
  • K67K67 Posts: 2,506
    This is a UK based forum and it's hard to advise for your conditions as they could be very different to ours, we couldn't plant bouganvillia and leave it outside over winter.
    There are a few members from America who might be able to advise re plants.
    As to your cement box could you drill drainage holes through the base?
    Then fill with a well drained potting mix and plant succulents or cacti?
  • I didn't know you were UK based. Good ideas about drainage holes... But I do want to plant something other than succulents or cacti.

    I know my options are limited, even with drainage holes. I doubt I could get roses to work. I would like something similar to Japanese euonymus. I'm in Zone 9b in Sacramento.  

    Thanks for the help!
  • Could you fill the planter with lots of grit with your compost and grow succulents, you can get a stunning display with them, or fill with grit/gravel and place large planters or raised beds, that will grow towards your wall and grow climbing roses, or Bougainville along the wall. Fun project!
  • PeggyTXPeggyTX Posts: 556
    edited April 2021
    I'm in Central TX north of Austin and it has been my experience at 3 different houses here and in Galveston, that Bougainvillea WILL NOT survive a hard freeze.  Haven't had much better luck with potting it so I could bring it indoors in winter.  That said, you may not get any of those in Sacramento. 

    Were that my box to plant, I'd amend the soil and raise the dirt higher in the box.  I'd consider some sort of climber, like Clematis, Carolina Jasmine, or a maybe even a climbing rose (Cecile Brunner comes tso mind, with its heavenly scent), on those upright timbers.  In the low areas, I'd plant some colorful perennials mixed with colorful annuals. 

    My house has an even redder brick than your wall there and I personally find that white and yellow flowers complement that colot backdrop nicely; red, pink and purple flowers do not looks so great in front of redish/orange-y colored brick. Again, just my personal preference. 

    At the front/left end, where the water line rises over the wall, and the oopposite end unter the grey 'whatever' I'd perch attractive largish pots of something evergreen.  I find Buxus 'Green Velvet' does nicely in pots.  It can be pruned to keep it smaller if desired, though this one has never been pruned and is 3 years old.   
    My low-carb recipe site: https://buttoni.wordpress.com/
  • scooty883scooty883 Posts: 34
    Break out 17" end wall reshape concrete base to slope down to opening and allow water to escape by rebuilding wall on lintel with gravel bed to allow water escape. 
  • scooty883scooty883 Posts: 34
    Or make various cores through wall and form a gravel bed with perforated pipes to allow airflow and drainage. Cover with breathable membrane(terram) then fill with topsoil and plant👍
  • paris6836paris6836 Posts: 6
    Hi:

    Thanks for the ideas. I'm going to go with the suggestion that I turn the problematic cement box (photos in earlier post) into a shelf that I'll put pots on.  

    I'm thinking of something like Japonicus Euonymus Cone shaped. I like the way the Japonicus Euonymus Cone looks. For me the variegated (golden and green) leaves and most importantly the cone shape may work in the space. 

    But I have a few questions. 

    Are the Euonymus in the photos labeled "Cone" that shape because of the way they're pruned or do they naturally grow in a cone shape like a christmas tree?

    The shelf I'll create will be 24" from the back wall to the front of the shelf. If I place the pot in the middle of the shelf that means there's only 12" between the wall and the middle of the Euonymus. Monrovia says it  grows "quickly" to 12' tall 6' wide. Chollipo Euonymus (monrovia.com) Is there a problem with only 12" between the plant and the back wall? 

    Most importantly can the plant stay in the pot for the next 20 years or will it need to be repotted?  

    Thank you!
  • LoxleyLoxley Posts: 5,698
    How about a nice espaliered fig (or two)? Create drainage as per @scooty883 suggestions and raise the ground level.
    "What is hateful to you, do not do to your neighbour". 
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