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Help with lawn (weeds and bare patches!)

ahaines81ahaines81 Posts: 2
in Problem solving
Hi, I'm very much a novice when it comes to maintaining the garden, so please be gentle with me! I've attached three photos which hopefully help explain my issues.

Last June we had our back garden re-turfed, before that it was just full of weeds. It seemed to bed in well but quite a few bare patches remain, with some getting noticeably worse. There is also a slight bumpyness to the grass in places, I put this down to just a bit of uneven soil that may flatten itself out over time. But did happen to read something on here that suggested it might be bulbs from weeds underneath.

Picture A is just an example of the bare patches at the start of the grass.

The left side of the grass is more in the shade and I feel it holds dampness longer, this is the side where the bare patches are more noticeable...but that could also be down to having a two year old running around on it! Picture B being the top left corner of the garden.

The weeds are now starting to sprout through the grass, more than they did last year. With the weeds in picture C appearing on quite a few areas. I'm reluctant to dig out the bulb, as I really have to dig down into the soil to get them out and don't want to do more harm to the grass.

I have purchased some MiracleGro 4-in-1, with the hope that it may help the grass and fight the weeds. Yet to actually use it though.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Posts

  • K67K67 Posts: 2,506
    Your grass looks fine for this time of year.
    Once the weather warns the grass will start growing and you can give it a cut on the highest setting.
    Dont feed yet as April is the time to start if the weather is warm.
    There are plenty of online sites to help you here's one https://www.gardenersworld.com/how-to/maintain-the-garden/improve-your-lawn-in-12-weeks/
    As to your bulbs they might be bluebells so you might never dig deep enough to find the bulb but regular mowing, little and often to keep the grass roots strong and will keep them in check
  • JennyJJennyJ Posts: 10,576
    edited March 2021
    When you apply the feed & weed product (as @K67 said, wait until the grass and weeds are actively growing and you've given it a trim or two), be very careful to follow the instructions. Spread it very evenly and don't add a bit more "for luck". Every spring there are posts on here from people who've used too much of the stuff or put it on unevenly and turned their grass black and patchy. Under-dose a bit rather than over-dose if you're not sure.
    Doncaster, South Yorkshire. Soil type: sandy, well-drained
  • DovefromaboveDovefromabove Posts: 88,147
    I agree with what’s been said ... id also say don’t cut it short ... keep the mower blade set on the middle level. Cutting too short means that the roots are exposed to the heat of the sun and they scorch and then the grass is weakened. 
    So cut ‘little and often’ 😊 

    Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.





  • ahaines81ahaines81 Posts: 2
    Thanks for the help. I've always mowed on the highest possible setting (Flymo Easi Glide). Our lawn is a simple square but sloped downwards from the middle to the front, so I tend to mow left to right rather than fighting it uphill.

    I do try to wait until the grass is dry, but always seem to be left with wet clumps of grass afterwards, which I have to pick up by hand. Raking the grass cuttings seems to pull a lot of the grass with it, so I don't tend to do that. But maybe that's the type of rake I have! Might sound silly, but is there a preferred type of rake for grass? Ours is a big plastic one, which I feel is more designed for leaves.
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