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How to grow Rudbeckia

I tried it last year and failed, and it looks like I will fail this year, too. My plan to grow Rudbeckia Goldsturm seems to have no luck.
What I do is:
I have clean plastic growing pots, I fill them with Jack Magic compost soil as this will be the  soil that I mix with our heavy clay soil, I water everything, sow the seeds 0.5 mm deep (1/5 of an inch) and sprinkle some soil on it and press slightly. Then they are stored on the south facing living room window. No cover this year. I had covered them last year.
Result Not one single seed made it so far after 4 weeks.
I checked the forum, but I found only entries about the intention to sow Rudbeckia, but no entry that described what to do to turn it into a success.
It would be great if you shared your methods with me.
Many thanks in advance.

The other seeds that I have sown so far:
Echinacea from the GW February issue which show 5 little plants, my own Echinacea but only 1 decided to to turn into a plant. The Dahlias from the GW issue come great.
Some other plants which partly worked fine and are now in the greenhouse. The Marigolds from self-collected seeds last year grow fine, and they seem to be beginner-friendly.
My old tomato seeds didn't do well, so I opened the new package and some of them are now coming out. But I have the impression that this year is not good for tomato seeds.
The chillies are doing well.
On the other side, the bulb plants in the garden are growing like crazy this year.

I my garden.

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Posts

  • PosyPosy Posts: 3,601
    Although I haven't tried myself, I believe it is really challenging to grow perennial rudbeckia from seed. You might find it easier to just buy young plants. And yes, there will now be a dozen people who grow hundreds from seed every year without any problems, so read those before you buy!
  • PosyPosy Posts: 3,601
    Oh, and I forgot to say, don't use that sort of compost on your clay, use well rotted stable or farm muck or home made garden compost heap compost.
  • Thank you very much Posy for your advise. I have given up Rudbeckia and bought 2 plants in reserve at our other garden centre in Bampton.
    Yes, I have used farm manure in Winter, and have now bought a wooden compost bin to get the leaves and soil mixed for next year.
    Background: When we bought our flat, the garden (10x10 metres, but only 6x6 can be used for planting) was in a total weedy mess (usual story). The first year in 2016, I had two small beds and lawn. I had a compost heap in the sunniest corner and turned left-over clay soil together with rotten leaves into nice soil over the following years and used it. But I have nothing left now, just a new pile of start-to-rotten leaves, but I don't have brown matter.
    It turned out over the years that our local area is plagued by creeping cinquefoil. Last summer, I decided to take off the lawn in Autumn and to dig out each single cinquefoil root. (Our garden clearance guy later asked if I want to work for him when he saw what I had done in a few days time). I said to myself that if the cinquefoil grows again, it's easier to remove a plant and to dig it out than having a lawn again.
    I had to give the first year a start and bought farm manure in winter and forked it in. The few bags of soil were needed to fill the area were I planted bushes to avoid any cinquefoil and for pots. But with my new compost, I now can bin all the green stuff and leaves and turn it into soil. From next year on, no more new soil.

    I my garden.

  • PosyPosy Posts: 3,601
    That sounds good. If you don't fancy the job with the garden clearance chap there's plenty of scope in my garden....
  • ButtercupdaysButtercupdays Posts: 4,546
    You can use torn up  paper & cardboard for brown matter.
    All my egg boxes, loo roll inners, and thinner packaging go in my kitchen caddy. Thicker or bigger sheets of card can be left where they will get wet, then they are easier to tear up.
  • PurpleRosePurpleRose Posts: 538
    Morning

    I use like @Buttercupdays has suggested, cardboard and toilet roll centres for brown material. I also have a friend who has a rabbit so I get used rabbit bedding pretty regular too.

    I have put Echinacea seeds in, in the past week. I understand germination can be rather slow for them. How long did yours take to come through?


  • Dirty HarryDirty Harry Posts: 1,048
    Unless you’re desperate to grow from seed I’d be tempted to get one in those 4 for £10 deals you often get on 1 litre perennials.
  • How to Grow
    Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients, so control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their germination. 
    Mulches also help retain soil moisture and maintain even soil temperatures. For perennials, an organic mulch of aged bark or shredded leaves lends a natural look to the bed and will improve the soil as it breaks down in time.  Always keep mulches off a plant’s stems to prevent possible rot.
    Careful watering is essential in getting perennials off to a good start. Water thoroughly at least once a week to help new roots grow down deeply. Soil should be damp at about 1 inch below the soil surface. You can check this by sticking your finger in the soil. Water early in the morning to give all leaves enough time to dry. One inch of rain or watering per week is recommended for most perennial plants. You can check to see if you need to add water by using a rain gauge.
    After new growth appears, a light fertilizer may be applied. Keep granular fertilizers away from the plant crown and foliage to avoid burn injury. Use low rates of a slow release fertilizer, as higher rates may encourage root rots.
    “Deadhead”, remove spent flower heads to encourage continuous flowering and prevent seed development.
    In colder regions, apply another layer of mulch (1-2 inches) after the ground freezes in fall. Evergreen boughs (from Christmas trees) provide additional protection. Remove this mulch in the spring.
    Divide when plants become overcrowded, bloom size begins to diminish or plants lose their vigor. Rudbeckia can be divided every 3-4 years in spring or fall four weeks before the ground freezes. Rudbeckia has spreading roots. Spreading root systems have many slender matted roots that originate from many locations with no distinct pattern. These can crowd out their own centers. They can usually can be pulled apart by hand, or cut apart with shears or knife. Replant one division where the plant was originally and plant the extra divisions elsewhere in your garden or give them away to gardening friends. Plant the divisions immediately, or as soon as possible, and water well
    Growing tips
    Many gardeners do not cut back perennial flower seed heads in the fall, but wait until early spring before the new foliage appears. This provides food for wildlife over the winter.
    Rudbeckia makes an excellent, long lasting cut flower. Pick when flowers are fully open.
    Plants are great for a pollinator garden.
  • Thank you all so much for your tips. I have torn today my first egg box for the bin which I will assemble tomorrow. 
    Klasstafan, very helpful. I have to admit that my garden doesn’t have one single weed. I’m simply too tidy. But I saw this week a robin looking for things  for a bird nest, and I said to myself I must leave more plant leftovers out. 
    Thanks again, I will now keep all the cardboard and loo rolls 👍

    I my garden.

  • Blue OnionBlue Onion Posts: 2,995
    I bought my first few Rudbeckia Goldsturm from the GC, and now they self sow everywhere.  I just dig up a clump of seedlings and transplant them where I want them.  Leave the seed heads on all winter, and you'll have plenty more.  
    Utah, USA.
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