Thanks for the info, yeah error on my part too much thinking going on.
The method is to... Line the trench in geofabric Layer of gravel on bottom Perforated pipe holes down on top Cover with gravel Fold in the geofabric (burrito wrap I believe it’s known as) Cover with topsoil or what ever your final layer is
I may have to scrap the soakaway idea due to the slight gradient.
My question now would be if I wanted to improve the border drainage without using a pipe and soakaway.
Would backfilling the border with layers of gravel, manure, topsoil, bark improve things?
The drainage towards the top end of the border is a lot better that the lower is there a best way to encourage surface water to that area more?
Thanks for the info, yeah error on my part too much thinking going on.
The method is to... Line the trench in geofabric Layer of gravel on bottom Perforated pipe holes down on top Cover with gravel Fold in the geofabric (burrito wrap I believe it’s known as) Cover with topsoil or what ever your final layer is
I may have to scrap the soakaway idea due to the slight gradient.
My question now would be if I wanted to improve the border drainage without using a pipe and soakaway.
Would backfilling the border with layers of gravel, manure, topsoil, bark improve things?
The drainage towards the top end of the border is a lot better that the lower is there a best way to encourage surface water to that area more?
As I've said before, I think raising levels would be better than digging a 'ole then chucking in all that material. Doesn't have to be a mound like below, could be more subtle... or could be a slightly raised bed.
If you dug a hole into that saturated zone and filled it with free draining stuff, it would probably become a sump - even more saturated than the surrounding soil. If you put organic matter like manure and bark into it, you may well get anaerobic conditions which are harmful to roots.
"What is hateful to you, do not do to your neighbour".
In my garden the water table is high all winter. Rain runs down from the fields above overground and in springs close to the surface because the clay soil won't absorb it. I use mound planting and built-up borders and it is much easier than trying to drain land that nature just meant to be waterlogged.
The issue tho was the ground was dry under the top layer of soggy clay, the water is coming from rain, and not draining just sitting. How raised a bed are you thinking?
The idea was that by back filling with drainable material to 0.6m deep x 0.5m wide then the water would not rise that far up along a 10m trench and would drain away over the warmer months, during winter it may sit there longer but would not raise to the surface? The plan was always to have it slightly raised after back filling but not by much maybe 6-10 inches.
I honestly am new to all this, and landscaper said dig a trench and back fill.
I thought soakaway best but with the slight gradient it wont work, unless I dig deeper with the soakaway (digger needed).
Raised bed is an option, but putting in sleepers along 10m and maybe 2/3 high is going to be costly and I don't really want to cover the fence that high.
Just scratching my head with whats best, my aim is to just not have water sitting on the surface for weeks on end.
In my garden the water table is high all winter. Rain runs down from the fields above overground and in springs close to the surface because the clay soil won't absorb it. I use mound planting and built-up borders and it is much easier than trying to drain land that nature just meant to be waterlogged.
This sound the same as me, high water table I believe although it was dry in teh clay once I cleared the soggy went clay out the top, I am 3/4 of the way down a hill where it starts to level off, so get water coming down. How high do you raise the borders are these within planter style raising?
I had to learn by trial and error because I knew NOTHING when I started. Mine is quite a big garden so when I made the borders I was able to pile on muck and grit, dig it in and pile on more until the border rose gradually to about 6- 12 inches above the surrounding grass. I mulch a couple of times each year but I don't need retaining structures because the slope is gentle.
Loxley from what you suggested, I would not back fill with gravel and topsoil? I really dont want to put the clay back in that I took out.
If I have a trench 0.6m deep x 0.5 wide x 10m long I presume lining the trench with Geofabirc and wrapping in gravel will not be of any good, say at the bottom up by 0.3m, then top soil the other 0.3m to ground level. then 10 inchs raised of compost and bark?
Oh sorry I think I misunderstood, I thought we were still on how to improve the planting bed itself without pipe and soakaway etc. For a trench, with a perf. pipe, to carry water away, yes backfill with clean no-fines aggregate and 'selected free draining material'. As per the detail on the left.
The website I got this image from notes that 'selected free draining material' could be almost any gravel or coarse sand, a crushed rock, or any material that could be considered 'free draining'. (I would not use bark, which you keep mentioning for some reason).
If you want to improve the bed without any of that, refer to my previous post.
(I have also said you should break up any pan which might be affecting drainage, but I think I've seen a post from you saying you did a deep excavation and noted drainage was still very slow at a deep level).
"What is hateful to you, do not do to your neighbour".
Posts
The method is to...
Line the trench in geofabric
Layer of gravel on bottom
Perforated pipe holes down on top
Cover with gravel
Fold in the geofabric (burrito wrap I believe it’s known as)
Cover with topsoil or what ever your final layer is
I may have to scrap the soakaway idea due to the slight gradient.
My question now would be if I wanted to improve the border drainage without using a pipe and soakaway.
Would backfilling the border with layers of gravel, manure, topsoil, bark improve things?
The drainage towards the top end of the border is a lot better that the lower is there a best way to encourage surface water to that area more?
If you dug a hole into that saturated zone and filled it with free draining stuff, it would probably become a sump - even more saturated than the surrounding soil. If you put organic matter like manure and bark into it, you may well get anaerobic conditions which are harmful to roots.
The idea was that by back filling with drainable material to 0.6m deep x 0.5m wide then the water would not rise that far up along a 10m trench and would drain away over the warmer months, during winter it may sit there longer but would not raise to the surface? The plan was always to have it slightly raised after back filling but not by much maybe 6-10 inches.
I honestly am new to all this, and landscaper said dig a trench and back fill.
I thought soakaway best but with the slight gradient it wont work, unless I dig deeper with the soakaway (digger needed).
Raised bed is an option, but putting in sleepers along 10m and maybe 2/3 high is going to be costly and I don't really want to cover the fence that high.
Just scratching my head with whats best, my aim is to just not have water sitting on the surface for weeks on end.
My plan was to back fill the trench and raise 6-10 inch
If I have a trench 0.6m deep x 0.5 wide x 10m long I presume lining the trench with Geofabirc and wrapping in gravel will not be of any good, say at the bottom up by 0.3m, then top soil the other 0.3m to ground level. then 10 inchs raised of compost and bark?
This you think will create a sump?
The website I got this image from notes that 'selected free draining material' could be almost any gravel or coarse sand, a crushed rock, or any material that could be considered 'free draining'. (I would not use bark, which you keep mentioning for some reason).
If you want to improve the bed without any of that, refer to my previous post.
(I have also said you should break up any pan which might be affecting drainage, but I think I've seen a post from you saying you did a deep excavation and noted drainage was still very slow at a deep level).