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Hi

I am planting laurel Etna for headging. Plan to dig a trench for the row of etna, line with some fish blood and bone, just wondering what to back fill with?

I have used Westland with add John innes in the past, I contacted the nursery supplying the Etna’s and they said they stock Erin multipurpose compost. 

Any advantage to using the add John innes over Erin multipurpose, obviously added John innes is slight more?

Thanks 

Posts

  • K67K67 Posts: 2,506
    If your soil is not heavy clay or really sandy you don't need to add anything except some fertilizer.
    If it's really poor JI3 is best or soil from a good part of the garden if you have any.
    Multi purpose by itself is too light for long term planting and will settle too much over time although you could add some to your soil or buy in top soil.
  • g333g333 Posts: 125
    Hi

    I was thinking backfill with  soil taken out also mixed with top soil, final layer being a multipurpose or with added JI. Is the added  JI needed tho?
  • BobTheGardenerBobTheGardener Posts: 11,385
    The 'added JI' in that one (which I also use) simply means it contains some loam (a mix of sand, silt and clay) and not just plant/wood fibre which makes up the bulk of MPCs, so would be the better of the two.  If you use that, it will break down less in the soil than MPC, but both will disappear quite quickly and the area will sink somewhat over time.  If you really need to add material to make the soil more workable, then I would also advise buying topsoil or using JI#3, if you can afford it.  Personally, I would dig-in dig in some well-rotted manure along the whole row and then plant directly into that.
    A trowel in the hand is worth a thousand lost under a bush.
  • g333g333 Posts: 125
    edited March 2021
    Thanks, so Manure would be better to use with Top soil, and maybe just add a layer of MPC to finish off?

    Basically Manure instead of MPC with JI?

    New plan?...dig a trench, add fish, blood and bone, back with with mix of soil that came out, manure and topsoil.  Then add a MPC scattered over the top to finish off?
  • BobTheGardenerBobTheGardener Posts: 11,385
    Sounds like a plan!  It doesn't matter what you use as a mulch to finish it off, as that is mainly there to help keep the ground below and roots moist, so if you already have MPC then use that, otherwise mulch with more well-rotted manure.
    A trowel in the hand is worth a thousand lost under a bush.
  • g333g333 Posts: 125
    I have asked locally if anywhere has manure but I've only had a couple of the horse places says its not well rotted, so might have to buy from a garden centre.

    When you say a mulch do you mean like a bark?
  • BobTheGardenerBobTheGardener Posts: 11,385
    A mulch is anything laid on the surface (even a layer of gravel is considered a mulch), so bark could be, and often is, used.  The bagged manure from garden centres is usually very good stuff, so I'd use that dug into the soil and maybe bark as a mulch if you want to save on costs.
    A trowel in the hand is worth a thousand lost under a bush.
  • g333g333 Posts: 125
    Managed to source some manure from a local stables, that is a year old, they have some 2 year left, and only a small donation required.

    Thanks for you comments and help on this one
  • g333g333 Posts: 125
    I've seen a bulk bag at a building supplier of 70% top soil and 30% multipurpose for £30, seems a great price for a mix considering that will be 900L.  Would that be a good solution with the manure?
  • BobTheGardenerBobTheGardener Posts: 11,385
    Sounds good and is great value.
    A trowel in the hand is worth a thousand lost under a bush.
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