My poly is totally uninsulated and not in the least frost-free. I did it as an emergency measure when we had a prolonged period of temps down to -7. Just to above staging height, plus a loose ‘box’ around the staging with the panels. This preserved the heat gain during the day sufficiently to stop any frost damage to tender cuttings etc. There was a noticeable temperature difference.
These were leftover panels from an experiment - insulating the bathrooms ceilings. My view was the same as yours @steephill, that the rest of the uninsulated second storey space would render it ineffective as it would equalise. To my surprise, the temp difference between the bathrooms and the hall/bedrooms is extraordinary. Cosy bathroom, chilly elsewhere. Theoretically it shouldn’t have worked so I have no idea how it did!
Mountainous Northern Catalunya, Spain. Hot summers, cold winters.
If you fix insulation directly to the wood then you are likely to find that the timber warps and disforms. This is caused by trapped moisture and big differences in temperature inside and out. If you fix battens 1st and leave an air gap for ventilation that would make a huge difference to the stability of a project like that. I've been building timber frame house for over 20 years and it's the same principle with them only we use loads of breathable membrane to prevent moisture getting trapped in the structure
If you fix insulation directly to the wood then you are likely to find that the timber warps and disforms. This is caused by trapped moisture and big differences in temperature inside and out. If you fix battens 1st and leave an air gap for ventilation that would make a huge difference to the stability of a project like that. I've been building timber frame house for over 20 years and it's the same principle with them only we use loads of breathable membrane to prevent moisture getting trapped in the structure
That's useful to know. I could mount a sheet of celotex onto a frame and leave an airgap which would in itself act as an insulating layer.
If you fix insulation directly to the wood then you are likely to find that the timber warps and disforms. This is caused by trapped moisture and big differences in temperature inside and out. If you fix battens 1st and leave an air gap for ventilation that would make a huge difference to the stability of a project like that. I've been building timber frame house for over 20 years and it's the same principle with them only we use loads of breathable membrane to prevent moisture getting trapped in the structure
I wonder if I could possibly have your opinion on my idea of rockwool and rodent proof mesh to allow for breathability? Thanks in advance.
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These were leftover panels from an experiment - insulating the bathrooms ceilings. My view was the same as yours @steephill, that the rest of the uninsulated second storey space would render it ineffective as it would equalise. To my surprise, the temp difference between the bathrooms and the hall/bedrooms is extraordinary. Cosy bathroom, chilly elsewhere. Theoretically it shouldn’t have worked so I have no idea how it did!
That's useful to know. I could mount a sheet of celotex onto a frame and leave an airgap which would in itself act as an insulating layer.
I wonder if I could possibly have your opinion on my idea of rockwool and rodent proof mesh to allow for breathability? Thanks in advance.