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Clearing and restoring an overgrown garden

Hello all, I am quite new to gardening and am looking for some tips.

I have recently bought a house which has a very long (30m) but very neglected garden - I am reliably told that the previous owner, an elderly gentleman, never stepped foot out there except to dump stuff. So far that has proven true with all the rubble, old fences, roof tiles, broken glass and carpet uncovered!

I've been trying to clear the garden to the best of my abilities by cutting back and pulling up roots where possible with a fork and shovel. I'm new to identifying plants but I'm fairly certain from research we had lots of bramble (horrid thorny stuff that roots everywhere, even on a canvas bag!), bindweed and some form of weed grass (meadow grass?) that grows in big clumps. We first saw the house in summer where the garden was in full 'bloom' and having that comparison, plus the poor state of the garden, means I'm fairly certain there was nothing worth saving. I have 'razed' the garden so we have a blank slate to start with. Once we've got rid of visible weeds (mostly there!) we'll be raking the soil to disrupt the roots as much as possible and monitor weed growth from there. Coming across lots of glass and buried plastic so trying to remove that as much as possible - any tips here appreciated as a lot of plastic is in tiny bits that are hard to pick up. We've already made some good progress but I wanted to get more authoritative advice on next steps.

I'd rather avoid chemicals to ensure all the roots are dead, especially the bindweed as this keeps snapping and is everywhere, but with the size of the garden I'm not sure we have an option other than weedkiller? Is a rotavator worth hiring? There's a couple of tree stumps that I'm also not sure how to get rid of. A lot of the soil has roots in it (example attached) which worries me that something unwanted will grow but seems a waste to get rid of the soil clump?

The garden is south facing and geology of the area is sand and gravel, but I'm not sure of the soil type. Eventually, we'd like a seating area/patio, an allotment section to grow some fruit & veg and a bit of a lawn with some flower beds. Pics attached of June, the day we got the keys in November and progress up until now. Any tips much appreciated for this complete novice!
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  • Hostafan1Hostafan1 Posts: 34,889
    Middle of first photo, and last photo = bindweed. 
    You can attempt to dig it out ( good luck with that ) or you can wait for it to grow and spray with glyphosate. 
    Devon.
  • JennyJJennyJ Posts: 10,576
    Don't rotovate until you've got rid of the weeds. If you do, you'll chop up the bindweed roots and every bit will grow into a new plant (some other perennial weeds do the same). While you wait for regrowth so you can see what weeds you have left, you can get on with things like fence repairs.
    Doncaster, South Yorkshire. Soil type: sandy, well-drained
  • steephillsteephill Posts: 2,841
    You're doing well so keep going. It is a big job but treat it like eating an elephant - one bite at a time. Select a manageable chunk and clear that before moving on to the next. A pickaxe or mattock would be useful for digging out stumps and deep rooted weeds. Keep taking pics as you go, it is good to be able to see how much progress you are making.
  • Wow you have made amazing progress. I'm sure I will be shouted down but I would now wait for things to start growing and spray everything with glyphosate once. Give it time to work. I would plan to do the garden in mini projects whilst keeping the rest under control with weeding. I think if you plant now you will have so many weeds coming through it will be hard to manage. Please send more pics as you progress
  • Unless you want a “bowling green” perfect lawn then grass is great for controlling areas until you are ready to create your planting or vegetable beds. We inherited a very overgrown garden, once we had cleared some areas of perennial weeds (thinking here brambles, docks, nettles and alkanet) we put down grass seed. And yes some of weeds were still popping up but once we started mowing they were cut down and soon gave up reappearing. Some areas have remained as grass and become part of our lawn, others have since been turned into beds once we had the time and money to plant them up.

    Where we wanted to have our greenhouse was full of the above plus bindweed. Once we’d cleared all weeds and had blank soil we did a blitz on the bindweed. We dug out a trench across the area about 18” deep and as we dug the soil out the we made sure we removed all the roots we could find (going deeper where needed) then moved forward until we had gone completely across the area (bit like the principle of double digging). Once done we left it for a couple of weeks then went through the whole area again. We filled two garden waste bins full of bindweed roots! But in the 3 years since we have had only had the very odd, weak bindweed shoot reappear - am guessing from seed- throughout the whole area.

    We haven’t used any chemicals but you do have to accept it’s not an effortless job. My top tip would be not to leave soil bare as you are only inviting weeds to grow and more vigorously without any competition - so maybe a bigger lawn initially as suggested or vegetable crops, green manure and annuals and mulch will provide competition and cover and as short term crops mean you can then do a through dig and weed if needed at the end of the season. 

    I did plant up some beds before they were really weed free (too impatient) but I’m glad I did as we started to get our garden established and it meant plants weren’t sitting around in pots. Some areas I’ve got away with it but a couple of beds, I have had to lift everything to have another go at things like couch grass. But I’ve also moved lots of plants around anyway as we created more beds so I’m not sure it’s caused much more work.

     If you have a garden and a library, you have everything you need.”—Marcus Tullius Cicero
    East facing, top of a hill clay-loam, cultivated for centuries (7 years by me). Birmingham
  • JennyJJennyJ Posts: 10,576
    Following on from @Butterfly66 's idea, The classic veg crop for "clearing the ground" is potatoes. I've never tried it but I suppose the theory is that you dig to plant them, taking out any weed roots that you find, then the dense leaf cover minimises annual weed growth, and then you dig over the area to harvest the crop and take out any remaining weeds at the same time.
    Doncaster, South Yorkshire. Soil type: sandy, well-drained
  • gjautosgjautos Posts: 429
    @steephill. Like eating an elephant! Brilliant, that made me chuckle. 
    I completely agree though, do the garden in sections, and dig each section thoroughly removing as mamy traces of weed root as possible. Might seem like hard work but it'll make life alot easier in the long run.
  • Wow cracking job so far! and what a lovely space too - congrats on the purchase of your home :P 

    I would personally try remove as much of the weeds as possible by hand to start off with. If you can, and have the time, you can then try lay some wood, cardboard or light-blocking fabric over very problemetic areas. Weight it down and leave for a few months.

    After this you could try rotavating if you wish, but i would just plant some grass whilst i wait and figure out any future plans. Grass does a pretty decent job of stopping other weeds growing compared to leaving it pure soil.

    Of course this is only my own experience and choice. All the best

    Millie
  • Congratulations and well done so far, really great progress @Allyshark

    I agree with what most have said, one section at a time. It is so encouraging when you finish one little bit and it looks good, certainly keeps the motivation going. I have a little garden table and chair that I use at the end of the day to sit at and admire my work, after carefully arranging it so I am looking at a good bit (with blinkers on)  ;) A drawing of what you are aiming for helps too, even just a sketch, makes it more imaginable. 

    I would be very disinclined to use a rotavator too, it really does give the roots a much bigger chance of creating new plants. I did use one on a really tricky bit of bed when making a veggie patch, but I then went on my hands and knees for what seemed like days fishing out all the broken roots, even then weeks later little shoots came up. The only good thing was they were small and manageable, but it was a constant and long job. I think a good days work with the spade would have been better use of my time. 

    Good luck and so exciting to have a blank canvas to work with. :)
    • “Coffee. Garden. Coffee. Does a good morning need anything else?” —Betsy Cañas Garmon
  • delskidelski Posts: 274
    Is it just me or do those larger fence panels look weird slotted into short concrete posts? Don't they wobble in the wind?
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