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Clearing our new plot and weedkiller

Sallyjames16Sallyjames16 Posts: 1
in Fruit & veg
Hello, we have just taken on a new bit of garden to grow veg. It’s been roughly cleared already, but there are still quite a lot of brambles in the ground and nettles with a small amount of leaf growth. We’re planning on no dig for the beds. What would be the best method to clear the perennial weeds before we get started? It’s a reasonable sized plot, so wondering if it’s ok to use weedkiller this time of year just to get us started. Many thanks 

Posts

  • Pete.8Pete.8 Posts: 11,340
    I had a similar challenge some years ago.
    This post may help-
    https://forum.gardenersworld.com/discussion/988597/glyphosate-rosate36-dilution-rate/p1

    For Rosate36 (which is a strong form of glyphosphate) to work, the plants must be growing strongly. It is only absorbed by leaves when the plants are growing well (so March to Sept). It will have no effect this time of year.

    Alternatively, it's a case of lots of digging.

    And - welcome to the forum :)

    Billericay - Essex

    Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit.
    Wisdom is not putting it in a fruit salad.
  • ObelixxObelixx Posts: 30,090
    At the end of the Beechgrove Garden season last year (BBC Scotland and BBC2) Chris Beardshaw had taken on an allotment to grow fruit.  He didn't want to use chemicals so his approach was to strim everything to the ground and rake it clear for composting.  Then he used a flame gun to burn off new growth as it appeared.   

    I guess we have to wait for Beechgrove to resume in spring to see how well it worked but we're planning to try it for our new dahlia and cut flowers bed in the potager and if that works OK we'll use it for all the new beds I need to make this year.  We'll then be covering the bed with cardboard before piling on well-rotted manure and compost.

    I would pull up or fork out any brambles first.  They're shallow rooted and easy enough when the soil is damp and soft.   Nettles are a sign your soil is fertile so a good sign.
    Vendée - 20kms from Atlantic coast.
    "The price good men (and women) pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men (and women)."
    Plato
  • Allotment BoyAllotment Boy Posts: 6,774
    Charles Dowding the no dig guru suggests using thick cardboard under the raised beds.  I have tried it and it does seem to help but it's not a complete cure.  Taking off ANY trace of green leaves persistently will eventually work as if they can't photo synthesise  they should die but it is a long fight. 
    AB Still learning

  • nick615nick615 Posts: 1,487
    I was apparently luckier than Alloment Boy.  I used two enormous tractor tyres as pseudo 'raised beds' on an otherwise useless area and, before placing them, I begged a few strong cardboard white goods packing cases from a local shop to place on the ground.  That was 13years ago.  Only the usual 'surface' weeds since.  None of the bad boys so it worked in my case.
  • WilderbeastWilderbeast Posts: 1,415
    @Sallyjames16 any systemic herbicides require plants to be in good growth for them to be effective. Brambles are tough plants to effectively kill off with herbicides and digging up root balls will give just as good results. Rough ground takes lots of labour to get effective clearance. I'd mark out the beds and then concentrate your efforts there, cover with as much cardboard as you can get and then cover with deep layers of compost/mulch. Get friendly with a tree surgeon and get mulch for free to cover areas between paths. Good luck 
  • StephenSouthwestStephenSouthwest Posts: 635
    I would cut it and cover it, quite meticulously, to exclude light. When you're ready, set up your no-dig beds on top. It's worth being disciplined about cutting or pulling any escaping brambles from the covered area. Eventually it will run out of juice. 
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