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What to grow up an oak tree

 I have an oak tree, bare up to about 40' except for big nobbles where epicormic growths have been pruned off over the years. I'm looking for suggestions foe what and how to clothe it (not ivy). I already have a rambling rose but it had to be unhooked in order to prune off the epicormic growths this year and will obviously get in the way of the poor tree guy in the future. We're not encouraged to bang nails into trees to attach supports so what can I do? 
East Dorset, new (to me) rather neglected garden.

Posts

  • Forty foot is an awfully long way before the branches start. I would have suggested a wisteria but I'm not sure it's the solution. Savill Garden has a superb one growing up into the canopy, but the branches start around 15ft from the ground. I believe it was established by securing a hefty rope into the ground beyond the active root zone and then trained upwards until it reached the branches. It's now at the top of the oak and its lower trunk is thick, gnarled and twisted, a feature in its own right. 
  • SueAtooSueAtoo Posts: 380
    That's an idea it sounds superb, and if I keep it well fed it won't take too much from the tree itself. I was concerned that growing something actually up the trunk would interfere with later pruning. I suppose I could attach some wire trellis stretching half way round (the side I see from the house) with something that could be loosened as the tree grows, then grow something annual or that doesn't mind being cut down maybe every 4 or 5 years. 
    East Dorset, new (to me) rather neglected garden.
  • RubytooRubytoo Posts: 1,630
    edited December 2020
    I am trying to understand what your last post is. If you mean you would not mind cutting it back or down each year?

    I would try a roll of the large square plastic clematis mesh, depending on the tree girth you could use a length wrapped around and use a little wire or string to join it, and keep it from getting too tight.
    It would be fairly stiff and supportive even a bit loose. And easy to check and re arrange as needed.

    I was thinking a vigorous group three Clematis, a viticella type would maybe work. As they are best cut back every year and grow and flower vigorously from the new growth every spring after cut back.
    As and when the tree needs attention which is usually done in winter. It won't be a problem to cut it back the clematis as they die down mostly in winter.
    Also any bits left up the tree soon go crispy and blow away in the winter winds.

    We used to have a lovely Rosa longicuspis ( now mulligannii I think) in one of ours but like you I felt I had to cut it down and removing upper growth was a problem and  awkward for the arbouriculturalists when they come to do work.

    I keep meaning to try out my own idea :D
    I appreciate it might not be the "high" you are looking for.
  • SueAtooSueAtoo Posts: 380
    Thanks Rubytoo, I think that's what I'll go with, the arboriculturist can probably check and loosen the tie if necessary while he's up there. I guess the climbers don't have to go all the way up but will just make it look a bit prettier.
    East Dorset, new (to me) rather neglected garden.
  • Clematis cirrhosa. Wonderful plant and evergreen and the flowers are so delicate.
    Ours has been in flower virtually all year this year. Such lovely flowers.
    Clematis armadii is another fabulous plant with flowers in winter and evergreen.
    We don't use any supports for it and allow it to do what it needs to do. Can be easily pruned back if it gets too vigorous.
  • Anything planted anywhere near to a large oak (or any large tree) is going to need the soil to be improved with lots of organic matter, and a great deal of watering from mid March to the end of September ever year ... several gallons two or three times a week ... more in warm or dry spells. 
    Be prepared. 😊 

    Gardening in Central Norfolk on improved gritty moraine over chalk ... free-draining.





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